No Matt, that picture with the mechanical drawing type measurements that I attached, is the ONLY description on the auction. I think they'd have been better off simply having a verbal description below the picture, instead of a picture that clearly (to me and many others) shows the ID to be 1.75".

Not worried, as if you're right about the piping measurements, than I have 1-3/4" headers after all.
...and a bunch of potential sales were surely lost since we all assumed that the ID should have been more than the 1-5/8" that it truly is.

Just like the outlet of the Y shows 3.5", which is slightly misleading as well since the actual PIPE is 3" with that 1/2" flare out at the very end...just like a stock catback has.

 

Yep, that's what I figured. Really, their drawing is just a generic deal that will answer the questions of the masses....but there are much better ways to go about it, such as labeling the drawing with ID's and/or OD's next to those measurements.

 

Ordered my set yesterday. Already tuned for them so I'm good to go. Band clamps and pipe plug then to the shop on base. Would it make it easier doing this on a lift?

 

I did mine laying on my back with the truck on driveway ramps. A lift would have been nice considering I have a 4/6 drop but it was doable.

 

How are you already tuned for them? You mean you have the rear 02s turned off? You can't actually tune for headers until you have them on and see how much air and fuel your getting.

 

Mine has just a leveling kit and my 290# behind had plenty of room to move and to do the install. I actually had to wedge the one header to keep it up near the engine while I scooted out from under the truck to start bolting it on. If you're lowered, please be SAFE and have quality jackstands to support the weight of your truck!

 

I had BlackBear tune the PCM. Rear O2s are tuned out. I guess whatever is typical of a tune with LTs is what was done.

 

Have somebody plug the tail pipe with a rag and go listen at the collectors...the backpressure from sealing the tail pipe will cause the exhaust gasses to find another path out, and if your collectors are leaking, that's where it will go

A lift is always easier with jobs like this, but not necessary, headers can be done on the ground also, just be sure to jack the truck up high enough to get the old y-pipe out, and the new stuff in

 

I have access to a hydraulic lift on base.Think we got our wires crossed. Didn't know if I would have enough room to thread a bolt on from the bottom so they don't fall out. I'm Guessing they don't just "fall out" though.

 

If I remember right, the passenger side header has so much room that it will indeed "fall out" if you don't use a bungee cord or wedge it or something while you move from underneath to under the hood...With a lift, you should be able to get a bolt started though...enough so to hold it in place. I started one on each end, then snipped the stock header/manifold gasket's bolt holes so that it could be slid down between the header and the head. Much easier than trying to hold gasket, header and bolt all at the same time.