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Old May 31, 2010 | 03:12 PM
  #51  
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Pitt, PM sent. They just don't sell to public anymore.
Too much trouble w/. people returning tools, not knowing what tool they want/need, using then returning. & silly non-sense like that. I just want the tool & have no intention whatsoever of returning it.

I can't imagine the Crank Pin Kit is that much. Maybe Blown Chevy can chime in or I'll just call Magnuson tomorrow.

Unless someone knows how much or a p/n.

Last edited by fastnblu; May 31, 2010 at 03:20 PM.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 03:36 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by 1Bear
Tom, I don’t know whether or not I would bother with changing the rear hard line on the fuel rails. Once installed, you or anyone else will have a hard time even seeing it. Hell, with all the crap hanging around the top of the motor, even seeing most of the fuels rails is slightly difficult. The thing that looks the worst on these things is the wiring harnesses themselves. Some choose to clean them up and make them look they best they can. I was a little too lazy for that and spent the better part of a year and a half locating a Joe Gibb’s cover to hide everything. While I’ve only used a pinning kit from Magnacharger, I can tell you it is a breeze to use and even do in the vehicle. I did use an angle drill for even more room, but it’s not absolutely necessary.

Don’t take what I’m saying as a discouragement and/or trying to keep you from modifying your set-up to make it your own, hell if you can do it more power to you. I’m just letting you know from my perspective only. I know you mentioned seeing whether or not you had room for the heat exchanger behind the grille, is it because you installed the TruCool or is because you’re planning a larger heat exchanger. If it’s because of the TruCool, I will say that in my GMC it fits perfectly fine with the standard unit from Magnacharger and the TruCool with the brackets from Time to Kill; even while using the stock brackets from Magnacharger. The only thing I had to modify at all was the upper heat exchanger bracket, as it would hit the TruCool.

I don’t believe you will have any problem reaching your goal of a low 12 second ride, especially in a RCSB with the ancillary parts needed to do so.
I hear ya. Just a thought since no gas has hit rails yet; they're the main thing I'd like to do. But not necessary.

I checked & I have a ton of room behind grille for HX. I can fab a standoff to come off my brkt for top of TruCool. Got any pics of how u modded upper HX brkt.?
I have a good idea how I wanna do it, but I'm curious how u modded yours?

I'm curious if a CTS-V HX fits & need a p/n for that too. Just in case.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 03:56 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
Which 1? There's about 3 of those.
Can u circle it?
its the one on the bottom left of the pic, next to the red plug (where the MAP sensor goes) on the lower manifold. its a small 1/8" brass nipple.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 04:12 PM
  #54  
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It would make sense to do the cam now, as opposed to after Radix is on. Also, I gotta read Roger's (KY Silverado)'s thread on pinning the crank. Maybe Roger will chime in. Or others. I need to find out how long it takes cause I may just do that too now.(QUOTE)

Pinning the crank is easy if you do it at the same time as cam swap.About 15 minutes to drill and insert pins.You do NOT want to pin crank before cam swap as you will have to line up harmonic balance perfectly to reinstall.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 05:16 PM
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Tom, i'll pm you my cell, call me if i can help or email pics.

I do UNDERSTAND now why you so curious on the IAT and Boost location!

I even have the drill bits and taps if you want to borrow them.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 05:25 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
I checked & I have a ton of room behind grille for HX. I can fab a standoff to come off my brkt for top of TruCool. Got any pics of how u modded upper HX brkt.?
I have a good idea how I wanna do it, but I'm curious how u modded yours?
I don't have a picture, but basically I took a torch and heated it up and re-bent it to clear the TruCool. I know you made your own brackets, but for others that may have or going to purchase the pre-built Time to Kill brackets and use them in conjunction with the Magnacharger heat exchanger and their bracket, what I found I needed to do was shift everything over toward the passenger side using the next set of holes in the TruCool mounts. I just had to open up the holes large enough for the bolts. Not doing so, the fitting on the passenger side of the TruCool would hit the heat exchanger mount on that side.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperchargedSS
its the one on the bottom left of the pic, next to the red plug (where the MAP sensor goes) on the lower manifold. its a small 1/8" brass nipple.
I knew this pic might come in handy as some of the other pics may help other PT members too. Thanks again.



Originally Posted by WorkTruc
It would make sense to do the cam now, as opposed to after Radix is on. Also, I gotta read Roger's (KY Silverado)'s thread on pinning the crank. Maybe Roger will chime in. Or others. I need to find out how long it takes cause I may just do that too now.(QUOTE)

Pinning the crank is easy if you do it at the same time as cam swap.About 15 minutes to drill and insert pins.You do NOT want to pin crank before cam swap as you will have to line up harmonic balance perfectly to reinstall.
That's what I thought too. Do cam & pinning all in 1. So how do these guys swap cams multiple times if they have a pinned crank?

I was guessing 1/2 hr TOPS. I also have Efans, so it makes for more room too.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TIM Z
Tom, i'll pm you my cell, call me if i can help or email pics.

I do UNDERSTAND now why you so curious on the IAT and Boost location!

I even have the drill bits and taps if you want to borrow them.
Cool Tim. I'll be in touch.

Originally Posted by 1Bear
I don't have a picture, but basically I took a torch and heated it up and re-bent it to clear the TruCool. I know you made your own brackets, but for others that may have or going to purchase the pre-built Time to Kill brackets and use them in conjunction with the Magnacharger heat exchanger and their bracket, what I found I needed to do was shift everything over toward the passenger side using the next set of holes in the TruCool mounts. I just had to open up the holes large enough for the bolts. Not doing so, the fitting on the passenger side of the TruCool would hit the heat exchanger mount on that side.
I have to keep in mind the exit location on the HX then. Thanks for the tip!
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Old May 31, 2010 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
That's what I thought too. Do cam & pinning all in 1. So how do these guys swap cams multiple times if they have a pinned crank?

I was guessing 1/2 hr TOPS. I also have Efans, so it makes for more room too.
Only way to put the crank pulley back on "easy" after pinning it is to get it hot in the oven so it buys you a few more seconds to align it with the slot and pop the pin back in. Definitely do the cam swap first so you dont have to deal with lining it up, its not fun if you dont get it lined up the first try.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
schino, I really appreciate the input!

Side note, I noticed u have Stingray 3's Tomahawk's. This is the 1st time I've seen them on a '08-up truck. How long ago did u get those? If not Centerline, where / how much?

Cause those are some of those wheels I have picked.
no problem man. yes they are centerline stingray 3's i picked them up off a dude in south jersey who got them for his bagged gmt800 but was parting the truck before he ever put them on. paid 500 for the set brand new. they are 20's so not horribly expensive for the wheel you get. ive had them for about a year now and love them. only problem is keeping the polish up. i believe this wheel tire combo is lighter then my stock 17's also
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