Hey stranger, I thought u fell off face of the earth? I sent that paypal info to you a while back.

Cody, bakin in oven then would dry out & crack the elastomer. Perhaps it wouldn't matter if crank is pinned, just a thought tho.

Sooo...how do guys do successive cam swaps w/. a pin kit?
Drill in another location?
Cause after a point wouldn't that weaken structure of harmonic?

Or use a 2 pc. cover?

 

S. Jersey & parting out? Why doesn't that sound right? Billy or Dan?
I know u can get the Stingray Ultra's but the Tomahawk Series are thinner & what I want & seem harder to come by. $500 is a steal, no pun intended. OK, maybe a little.
Seriously tho, $800 a set, more if chromed. I want it to hold up but polishing needs to be kept up as u said. I wanna say chromies in a 20" are $350.

Those 20's are ~22#. That's all the bling my truck will see is if I get chrome / polished wheels, heck that's even why I went w/. silver finish on Radix. And it saves some jack too.

I guess my Radix will add 100#. Yes, I weighed it. 64# for the unit itself, IIRC. Box 2 is 35#, but in all fairness, I didn't take everything outta the box & weigh individually, so some of that is cardboard & packing. I will by the time it goes on. I like how my truck handles now, & 100# on nose doesn't help that.
I guess I'll have to deal w/. it for the upside.

 

i didnt realize there were 2 different series of them. i know these wheels are older. 2 dated from 02 i believe which have the valve stems not on the lip but in the middle of the wheel (very clean look but PITA with pressure sensors). the other 2 were 05's if i remember correctly. i made sure they had the same profile and all that being 3 years different something may have changed. only thing different is their polishing job. the older ones seem to get duller quicker. my reason for wanting polished.. when chrome goes it goes and your only choice is to strip it. polish takes effort but its the metals surface so you can always polish it back. curb rash could be an easy fix on polished wheel although mine never come close enough to curbs to worry

btw with this whole thing your doing. you make me feel much better about my truck. ive had parts collecting for a year (cam, springs, rods, tru cool, converter, gauges, intake parts, nitrous, now recently blower and a new cam) i told my brother i ordered a pat g specd cam and he says ahh thats cool. sounds like you will have a nice speed shop with all those parts since your not doing anything to your truck.... hopefully this summer it will all be on

 

congrates on the new maggie tom!

 

I'm in north Jersey and Dan's in central Jersey...although I would have made a trip to south Jersey for a deal like those Centerlines!

 

Tom you better call me to help put that on! I dont mind missing out on the trans swap but if I miss the maggie install...I will not come to play at the track with you anymore.

 

schino, I called a powdercoater today. He said he's had people go get their stuff anodized at a local place, only to come to him to have it powdercoated. Said ai held up better. I think he meant around here, but it applies in general I'd think. Powder is for durability. His words, but I take stock in that statement too.

Anyway, .0002-.0003 for p/coat is spec he gave me. I thought of a blue or black. I checked another place that had colors i could view: Sparkle Electric Blue, Bengal Blue, Royal Blue, somethin called Azurro 301 / Azurro 305, & lastly Candy Blue.

They all have they bright Blue look to some degree similiar to my Arrival Blue.

 

i had thought about it some after i wrote that and think that i can get scotch bright pad and scrub off anodize easily, thats not going to happen with powder coat. i really didnt think it was that thin but that should work well for you then! im used to the aerospace and military parts at work which almost all get anodized or chem filmed for purpose of corrosion. anodize has an added benefit though and that is electrical insulation. housing which contain electronics are protected from outside electrical sources as well as corrosion protection. its all got its place. under the hood of your truck PC will be better it seems. also got a lot of color choices which is good!

 

If a Scotchbrite cuts anodizing, it's not gonna cut it for me. Same here, I thought powder was much thicker. I listed a few of the ones that seemed to match the hue I'd try to nail down, but there may be some others. I think I can find somethin I like & tomorrow I'll go to who p/c'd my Dynas. I'd planned on today, but it wasn't in the cards. Black is a lot simpler, shorter list: satin or gloss, not much more than that, except maybe a semi-gloss or metallic. We'll see.

1 place I called today said he'd need to see the rails, or how long are they? I just said 18", 24" at most. So I'm sure that covers it. He's only 10 miles from me. He said most rails they've done can be plugged, taped off & haven't presented any problems. W/o seeing it tho, he guessed $60-100 at most. I sure don't wanna lug a 64# s/c around. So I'll just take my digital cam.

The place I had headers done at, is ~ 1 mile away.
So, off to there I go tomorrow. I'll post up what I find out.

 

I went back to where I had headers done. They're close, do a great job, & are reasonable. Under $50 for powdercoating both rails, fittings & crossovers. I think that's more than fair.