The Cat is outta the bag!!!
May 31, 2010 | 10:51 AM
#41
schino, I really appreciate the input! 
Side note, I noticed u have Stingray 3's Tomahawk's. This is the 1st time I've seen them on a '08-up truck. How long ago did u get those? If not Centerline, where / how much?
Cause those are some of those wheels I have picked.
Side note, I noticed u have Stingray 3's Tomahawk's. This is the 1st time I've seen them on a '08-up truck. How long ago did u get those? If not Centerline, where / how much? Cause those are some of those wheels I have picked.
May 31, 2010 | 11:07 AM
#45
I really wanna get this Bad Boy on here by this summer preferably. Fall at latest.
I have some concerns / ideas.
It would make sense to do the cam now, as opposed to after Radix is on. Also, I gotta read Roger's (KY Silverado)'s thread on pinning the crank. Maybe Roger will chime in. Or others.
I need to find out how long it takes cause I may just do that too now.
Also, hydroboost. I read some on that & looks like a possible option. I need to know how much it costs to do & all the parts involved. I know some Maggie guys are doin Hydroboost a.w.a. some NA guys.
So little $, so many ideas. It never ends!
I have some concerns / ideas.
It would make sense to do the cam now, as opposed to after Radix is on. Also, I gotta read Roger's (KY Silverado)'s thread on pinning the crank. Maybe Roger will chime in. Or others.
I need to find out how long it takes cause I may just do that too now. Also, hydroboost. I read some on that & looks like a possible option. I need to know how much it costs to do & all the parts involved. I know some Maggie guys are doin Hydroboost a.w.a. some NA guys.
So little $, so many ideas. It never ends!
May 31, 2010 | 02:36 PM
#48
Tom, I don’t know whether or not I would bother with changing the rear hard line on the fuel rails. Once installed, you or anyone else will have a hard time even seeing it. Hell, with all the crap hanging around the top of the motor, even seeing most of the fuels rails is slightly difficult. The thing that looks the worst on these things is the wiring harnesses themselves. Some choose to clean them up and make them look they best they can. I was a little too lazy for that and spent the better part of a year and a half locating a Joe Gibb’s cover to hide everything. While I’ve only used a pinning kit from Magnacharger, I can tell you it is a breeze to use and even do in the vehicle. I did use an angle drill for even more room, but it’s not absolutely necessary.
Don’t take what I’m saying as a discouragement and/or trying to keep you from modifying your set-up to make it your own, hell if you can do it more power to you. I’m just letting you know from my perspective only. I know you mentioned seeing whether or not you had room for the heat exchanger behind the grille, is it because you installed the TruCool or is because you’re planning a larger heat exchanger. If it’s because of the TruCool, I will say that in my GMC it fits perfectly fine with the standard unit from Magnacharger and the TruCool with the brackets from Time to Kill; even while using the stock brackets from Magnacharger. The only thing I had to modify at all was the upper heat exchanger bracket, as it would hit the TruCool.
I don’t believe you will have any problem reaching your goal of a low 12 second ride, especially in a RCSB with the ancillary parts needed to do so.
Don’t take what I’m saying as a discouragement and/or trying to keep you from modifying your set-up to make it your own, hell if you can do it more power to you. I’m just letting you know from my perspective only. I know you mentioned seeing whether or not you had room for the heat exchanger behind the grille, is it because you installed the TruCool or is because you’re planning a larger heat exchanger. If it’s because of the TruCool, I will say that in my GMC it fits perfectly fine with the standard unit from Magnacharger and the TruCool with the brackets from Time to Kill; even while using the stock brackets from Magnacharger. The only thing I had to modify at all was the upper heat exchanger bracket, as it would hit the TruCool.
I don’t believe you will have any problem reaching your goal of a low 12 second ride, especially in a RCSB with the ancillary parts needed to do so.
May 31, 2010 | 03:07 PM
#49
Jarrod, thanks for info. I read Roger's crank pin sticky. Looks easy enough. Just keep everything straight is most critical.
I just got off Egay & couldn't find Kent Moore J-42386-A, as Roger stated.
I just got off Egay & couldn't find Kent Moore J-42386-A, as Roger stated.
May 31, 2010 | 03:09 PM
#50
I said anodized. I meant powdercoat. Maybe anodized would be better. It may not hold up as well up here on the salt infested winter roads.
Anod. at .0001-.0002 sounds like a great option. IIRC, where I had my Dynas coated, they do anodized as well. I gotta check Tues.
Any chance u know how thick powdercaot would be? I know it'd be similiar to paint sprayed on a vehicles surface, trouble is, IDK how many mils thick that powder would be. I thought a car's (or truck) paint was 1.5 mils thick. I think that is factory thickness, but unsure as to whether or nor it includes the clear.
Anod. at .0001-.0002 sounds like a great option. IIRC, where I had my Dynas coated, they do anodized as well. I gotta check Tues.
Any chance u know how thick powdercaot would be? I know it'd be similiar to paint sprayed on a vehicles surface, trouble is, IDK how many mils thick that powder would be. I thought a car's (or truck) paint was 1.5 mils thick. I think that is factory thickness, but unsure as to whether or nor it includes the clear.