I'd guess those inner marks on the axle housings are from a bolt on rear sway bar.

 

I realized it was from the oem saddles, they make three marks, so nothing out of the ordinary in that regard

 

I couldn't get the AEM wideband plug through the firewall, so I depinned it and got it through and routed across the engine







Success




Routed and zip-tied




I used a diode bent in half to depress the two pins required at the same time




Here we go again




You can tell previous owner had axle clamp on it for axle wrap, it bent the springs







Made all the modifications needed for the traction bars




Pressure washed and added some rust remover to the surface rust areas




Inside of the shackle bushing hole was very rusty, so trying to get the scale off




New u-bolts and poly bushings came in the mail



Lots of excess threads, but they should have enough threads to apply pressure with the flip kit, which was my worry

 

Got the poly bushings installed as well as the front brackets for the traction bar. Got them put on the truck and called it quits for the day. Tomorrow I'll lower the axle down and install the flip kit hardware and u-bolts

 

Back on all 4 tires




Axle seems to be over to the passenger side a bit more than the drivers













Center of notch marked

 

What brand traction bars are those?

 

VAS low profile version for flip kits

 

Do the 2014+ wheels still tuck like the nnbs wheels? Looks like they stick out more.

 

pretty sure they are the same, the rear passenger side looks more flush because the axle isn't centered on these trucks from the factory. I looked into the axle centering thing and found a ton of threads on multiple forums about it, and the general consensus is every truck has the same issue with axle being pushed to the passenger side

 

You want it slightly offset so the ujoint cap velocity is not zero, but its generally <1degree. If its dead on perfectly aligned the cap doesnt rotate and doesnt get lubricated properly.