ILuvJDM

iTrader: (4)

Decided to permanently mount my intercooler today, started with remounting the ambient temperature sensor. Just drilled a hole in the headlight bracket




Radiator support level




Intercooler to match, don't hate on my custom brackets I made with a hammer and vice







Routed the coolant hoses under the intake




Got all the intercooler piping installed







Got too dark to take good pictures, but got the BOV vacuum line ran along with the MAF wiring. Routed it along the upper coolant hose down the fan wiring. Looks nice and clean and away from hot or moving parts

ILuvJDM

iTrader: (4)

For my next magic trick, I turned the truck around for the first time in 3 months

ILuvJDM

iTrader: (4)

Here's some pictures I never got around to posting:

MAF wiring and vacuum hose for BOV routed down the fans for a clean look away from the engine pulleys



Back when I did the trucool 40k, I bypassed the radiator and didn't just want to leave it open to the elements, so I cut off the ends of the hardlines before I tossed them. Installed them back in the cooler with a vacuum cap for a nice clean look that also keeps crap out of the cooler in case it ever gets hooked back up



Coilovers supplied by Atomic permanently installed and set at pretty close to final ride height, although it's tough to measure because the back end is so high right now making it seem lower than it is





Out in the sunlight





I do have a leak at the oil drain line due to the barb fitting supplied with the kit. I'm not a fan of having plumbing supply house fittings on a vehicle, so I think I'll just bite the bullet and do -10AN

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

You need to get high quality pushloc hose that is rated for high temp. Parts store heater hose wont cut it with turbo heat.

How come you didnt use my supplied hardware with the top brackets, especially the nylon lock nut I supplied?

ILuvJDM

iTrader: (4)

The hose is what comes with the trick kit, I believe it's aeroquip and made for oil drain lines, but it's not just heater hose. I actually wrapped the top 3-4" with DEI cool tape before sliding the DEI fire sleeve over the top of that. The problem is the clearance of the turbo itself, which is one of my many gripes with this kit as far as quality and fit and finish goes. Here's a picture of the clearance of the drain line and fitting. The brass barb has to be tightened in a very specific way, otherwise you can't even bolt the drain flange on the turbo.



You can see that it's so tight in there, that you can't even slide the DEI fire sleeve up all the way. Also, the compressor housing can't be clocked according to the pictures in the installation manual, because the bolts for the compressor cover hit the oil drain line as you rotate it around.

The bottom brass barb that goes into the oil pan is the one that's leaking though, since it's the horizontal fitting.

The upper brackets actually aren't yours, I ordered them with the lower control arms, so they didn't come with any hardware at all. I went to tractor supply to get grade 8 hardware, but was surprised to see no locking nuts like you supplied with your brackets. I know they sell them because I've bought from them before, but maybe they changed suppliers...

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Oh, that explains it, shoulda bought mine

Use a 4-5" pipe off the drain flange and a coupler to put it below the foot of the turbo, makes it a ton easier to work with the drain.

ILuvJDM

iTrader: (4)

I saw you post that in another thread and I was going to do that, but after looking at it, the pipe would actually hit the wastegate flange bumpout. I think a true braided -10an line is my only solution here, but those fittings are $$$

I didn't feel like getting dirty tonight, so I worked on my gauge mounting. I'm putting the AEM wideband on top of the steering column, similar to how it was in my old Evo.

I bought a $12 eBay "Defi style" gauge pod and cut up the bottom mount and made it come through the bottom of the plastic so it's nice and hidden.







It's hard to get the picture to show it well, but from the drivers seat, nothing is blocked from view, except 120mph number and the low fuel yellow light







Also tried plastic weld to mount the dual gauge pod on a spare a-pillar I had laying around.

treylittlefield

You can leave the bolt that hits the drain line out of the compressor cover. It won't hurt anything. That will allow you to rotate the cover correctly.

ILuvJDM

iTrader: (4)

I considered doing that, and I may have to when I switch to AN fittings, but for now I got it to work with the couplers and stuff. You understand how odd it is though that you have to leave a bolt out of something just to get it to work in a normal application... Little things that annoy me

Shaggy2dope

iTrader: (1)

Man, that is super tight around that drain. Removing the offending hex bolt and replacing it with a countersink flat head bolt may let you clock the compressor the way you like. McMaster Carr may be proud of their products, but they usually have what you need.