Both narrowband O2s are brand new densos.

By valves being tight, do you mean ptv clearance? I had both heads surfaced the same about after I had the one fixed.

The only thing touched between when it was running and now is: new o2 sensors, replaced turbine wheel, had cylinder repaired and both heads surfaced, new head gaskets, new exhaust gaskets, injectors cleaned and tested.

 

log the O2 sensor voltages to make sure they are switching.... Do this from a cold start, that way you can watch them warm up to see if one of them is lazy.

or

if you don't feel like doing the above just swap them side to side...

Also i would try swapping coil packs side to side...




it kinda like you have an exhaust leak somewhere...

 

They do switch, but bank 1 is much lazier. I assume this to be because the trim is so far off. I can force the AFR manually with the scanner, and bank 1 shows rich at about 12% lower of an AFR than bank2, which matches what the trims are saying. Bank 2 sensor is a pain to get to which is why I havent switched them yet, but based on how the plugs look and how it behaves in PE I believe it to be correct. Specifically, in PE bank1 shows lean, bank2 shows rich, but wideband shows very lean. Keep in mind I havent touched the tune since it ran correctly last time.

Swapping coil packs isnt so easy either since the driver side has 3 turned upside down and the passenger side basically has them sandwhiched between the downpipe and valve cover. I dont think its an ignition problem, based on the chest pain I had after pulling a plug wire with the engine ideling

 

Well, I would turn off the o2,s or unplug and make the engine stop adjust for the real problem. Then see how the engine runs. Do you notice a misfire?? or just a rough idle?? And The valve adjustment can be to tight. I mean to must preload.

 

I would do a cylinder leak down test to make sure you don't have a valve not sealing. That loose intake valve worry me. I think you may have adjusted the rocker down and bent a valve. if the pushrod was on the edge and you run the valve down and started the engine it can bent the valve and that the reason the rocker was loose after it jump into place after the engine started. Just saying...

 

It idles rough in open loop (sensors not doing anything), because evidence says half the cylinders are lean. The loose intake rocker was on bank2, I am having problems with bank1. The springs/valves have not been touched since everything was hunky dory. Both heads were surfaced the minimum amount of around 0.005". When I checked PTV clearance during assembly I had gobs so thats not a concern. This still wouldnt explain why one side has this issue and the other doesnt.

I ordered a leak down tester this morning and it should be here next week.

 

I wonder if it is injectors, even thou you said they were just cleaned.. What about swapping those side to side. unpluging 1 at a time while watching the STFTs....

 

Thats my plan next time I get to mess with it (Sunday night or Monday). Ive concluded it has to be an injector issue....thats what I get for having them cleaned! I was very careful installing them and blew out the rails with compressed air before hand even though its sat in my garage the whole time.

 

sucks man, i have tested my injectors before by making a small harness that uses a 12v battery (small square clock radio kind), and a monitory switch and some carb cleaner. Basically spray the cleaner then pulse the injector with the switch. Dont hold the switch closed, pulse it quickly.... if it clogged nothing will come out the end.

 

I bought a dc power supply off amazon at the same time as the tester, should make a good toy!

I put my stethoscope on all the injectors and they sounded fine...