No, doesnt work that way. Its the difference between direct injection and port injection...in a diesel the fuel burns in a cone shape around the fuel injector, in a gasser its the whole volume burns from the spark plug.

Max temps come when the fuel burns at its stoichometric ratio, which for gasoline is around 14.7 depending on stuff in it, this is where it always burns at cruise. Actual diesel stoich afr is around 14, but most diesels run like 30-40 afr at cruising. The more fuel you add moves it closer to 14 (hottest point) and if you keep adding more it will cool off, but will smoke like a freight train.

Part of the reason diesels last longer is because they run cooler since they dont have to run at stoich all the time. This is due to the pre-mixed flame (gassers) versus diffusion flame (direct injected diesels) and also the flammability limits of the fuels, which gasoline is much pickier than diesel.

 

Hmmm... well that actually makes sense. So with the new LT1 motors what are they doing AFR wise @ cruise? What are their limitations?

I don't care what horrible things Jake says about you Richard, your not as Gay as he wishes you were.

 

Don't listen to his lies, Richard.

 

Got the new sensors in today and started it up and drove it around the block. It sounds like **** and has no power. There is this rattling at idle, I think might be the exhaust hitting the frame (I hope so anyway). It goes away with rpm. Pretty sure it hates these 8s@0.020, I am going to try some 7s tomorrow at 0.025 to see if it clears it up. Oil pressure is very good and comes right up with rpm so thats good. Might do a compression test tomorrow as well.

 

Found that rattling sound at idle after doing a compression test and #8 only had 30psi 0_0




The intake rocker was loose. Just about had a heart attack when I saw 30 psi for compression.

Heres an idle video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9WJ...ature=youtu.be


Now on to a new problem. Bank 1 has a 15+ trim over bank 2. I believe this is a real difference since if I force open loop bank 1 is always lean. I have tried tr6 plugs so its not the plugs, and triple checked all the wires. All the primarys get warm at the same rate. Sprayed starting fluid around the intake ports and no change so I dont think its a leak, also cant feel any exhaust leaks. Just had the injectors cleaned and tested, I can hear them all firing. All cylinders have good compression.

I am out of ideas on this one...anybody got some?

 

Leak down test...

 

What would that tell me since compression tested good?

 

Not sure if the leak down test will help find a lean cylinder or two but it will give you a way better idea of the overall health of each cylinder. I would do it on the bank 1 cylinders just for the hell of it and see what you come up with.

 

I know a lot of time antifreeze would kill a O2 sensor. And a misfire will make O2 reading show lean. NOT RICH.. So you make have a cylinder or cylinders misfiring on the lean side. Also make sure no valves are to tight. You did shave the heads right?? And it would be great to have good O2 sensor on the lean side to just check.

 

Comparing leak down test results between the banks could give you an indication of why the one side is asking for more fuel.

Also, since you just roasted a head I'm sure you put coolant thru the exhaust system. I'd be willing to bet the NBO2 sensor(s) is fouled. Replace both of them and recheck. Wouldn't hurt to get a fresh calibration on your WBO2 as well.