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Hi.
This site is an overwhelming world of knowladge and I need some guidance. Developed a ticking lifter issue and want to deal with it the best way possible only once. Performance mod opportunity right..chaching.
What I have.
07 Avalanche with 170km.
Gm performance cai.
Flowmaster exhaust.
LT Headers.
Efi live tuned and afm disabled.
While I am going to crack it open and do lifters I mine as well get bigger and better parts.
Lifters, Cam , springs and Vlom dod delete.
what else?
If I do the above can I get away without touching the 4l60? Or do I need to do a
Stall ? Converter ? Are they required ? Does one go with the other? What size cam springs lifters is better but not too crazy to cause breakage.
My truck will be with me for at least 3 more years and I daily drive it to work and haul 3 kids and wife. Tow a boat and an rv camper trailer all summer. Goal is to upgrade as much as needed to get more power and avoid engine failure. Want some lumpy cam sound but not greasy hot rod madness that will loose all daily drivability. I Have read a bunch of threads here and have read the Cam 101 thread on Ls1tech forum. What's the most I can go without going full bore. No track racing no big launches but want it to be more fun to drive while I'm in there. What have you guys used and recommend. Btr stage 2,3 or texas speed ? Ls7 hotcam? Is my goals even possible and realistic?
Thanks for any help in advance.
Here's a pic of my jalopy.
Cheers.
Stay small on the cam to prevent the need for a stall converter. The larger the cam, the more a stall is required and also the larger the cam the more it can hurt your transmission.
Figure the 212/218 cam size is about as big as you want before a stall should be considered. They have one that is slightly smaller than that as well, both would give a decent power bump over a stock camshaft. Neither will give a super lumpy idle because they are not aggressive camshafts. A good tuner should be able to give you good idle with some lope but it's not going to chop hard and be like potato potato potato.
Most cam kits come with springs that work with it. You'll have to measure for pushrods to get the correct ones or talk with whatever place you buy them to see what they say is needed with whatever cam you buy.
Stay small on the cam to prevent the need for a stall converter. The larger the cam, the more a stall is required and also the larger the cam the more it can hurt your transmission.
Figure the 212/218 cam size is about as big as you want before a stall should be considered. They have one that is slightly smaller than that as well, both would give a decent power bump over a stock camshaft. Neither will give a super lumpy idle because they are not aggressive camshafts. A good tuner should be able to give you good idle with some lope but it's not going to chop hard and be like potato potato potato.
Most cam kits come with springs that work with it. You'll have to measure for pushrods to get the correct ones or talk with whatever place you buy them to see what they say is needed with whatever cam you buy.
All good advice here.
And if you tow you should just stick with a stock stall.
Thanks for the tips and advice. One day when it's not a daily I will go full bore crazy and get the patatoe patatoe patatoe.
What about springs and lifters size upgrade. Is there a limit as well on this before I'm at a disadvantage of size?
IS There anything else I can or should do? What about a vette servo I've read about? Worth it or meh?
Stock replacement lifters are all you need, they just need to be the non AFM/DoD style. Nothing special about them. Valve springs again can come with a camshaft package. A small cam won't require super expensive springs.
Stock LS7 lifters and new lifter trays are all you need. They are super affordable and reliable. And as mentioned small cam and matched springs/pushrods and you’ll be good to go.
Summit Racing sells the GMPP Lifters for $175 or you can buy there brand of lifter with LS2 lifter trays for $150.
I would look look into a rocker arm trunnion upgrade seeing’s you will have the motor opened up, again a great investment for more valve train reliability
Comp cams trunnion kit $135
Summit Racing kit w/ springs roller trunnions and install tool $350
Summit Racing bronze bushing kit $150
Just giving you some options and pricing variables
If you need to free up some funds maybe we can work out a deal with those Novakane’s
Thanks again for the info.
I want to be sure i don't miss anything and then down the road wish i would have. Upgrade or replacement of crank pulley or timing chain/ gears worthy or not?
Oil pump ?
What about trunion upgrade?
Definitely do trunion upgrade. I would also do chain and pump while your there since the engine is on the north side of 100k miles but not absolutely necessary unless you have been having oil pressure issues.