One thing I can think of is the AlkyControl controller. It works on PWM and it can screw up data logging software. I think it screws up my G-Tech because I don't get a rpm reading when the alky control is armed under WOT and brake stalling up to 5-6 psi. I have not really figured it out yet. In Julio's instructions he mentions this problem and says a cure is to run the power to the control from a lead in the underhood fuse block through a 30 amp bosch type relay using an ignition switch souce to trigger the relay. You could try running it with the alky contol disconnected and see if it helps with your problem or not????

Good luck getting it figured out.

 

yep, tried turning off the alky and even the 2nd fuel pump and efans.

keep the ideas coming.

 

Have you tried running a ground and just grounding the things you have to have to run it and see if it help, or just unhooking the accessories to see what could throw it off.

 

When you did the motor to frame ground did you grind on the frame?

Like I said before, I was having gorund problems and I tried everythnig, my dash lights all came on, I couldn't roll up my windows without everything turning off, truck would just die --- I changed 2 alternators, battery and different grounds -- Finaly what fixed the problem was running a direct ground from the battery to the alternator bracket and another ground from the battery directly to the fire wall ( I used the original ground mount on the firewall from the factory to connect my ground ) Give it a try, Hopefully you get lucky and get your truck running, would like for you to beat your old 1320 time!

 

when you moved the battery did you move the location of the alternator hook up. that little red box on the driver side of the eng. just some thoughts. when you cut and extened that harness did you cut any of the crank sensor wire or antthing of the sort to extended it and if so did you make really good coneections? have you data logged with your efi live (if thats what you use) to see if the rpm spike really are there? maybe your crank sensor is screwing up a little here or there and causeing small fluxuations in the signal.

 

Are the injectors high or low impedence?

Richard

 

I am almost sure that they are low imp injectors!

 

I agree with a lot of things that have already been said. I'd definately check into the computer wires you lengthend but before I'd do that I'd try a new cam and crank sensor.
And the alternator main power wire, I would have probably put it on the starter lug with the battery + wire. To rule out this problem you could probably unhook the alt and run it. Not sure if the low voltage situation would be a problem but if it spikes in the driveway you could just hook a battery charger to it.

 

i cleaned the frame and drilled and taped the holes for the ground straps. we tried using a large jumper cable and jumped from the battery to many locations like power side of batery strait to the alternator. negative on battery strait to engine(alt bracket) and to the fire wall. hot and ground from the mega strait to the battery.

i have low z injectors and have had for years.

i did extend the crank trigger wires. i will check those but i do a prety good job with my wireing(electrician). just because there is good conections doesn't mean i am not picking up some kind of interfearance. i will try some other sensors just for the **** of it.

we put a scope on the tach wire that we are using to feed the mega and it apears to have a clean signal. we did see some funny stuff on there at first but found out what it was and got it cleaned up. i also have my wideband on the same tach wire, we trid unhooking that of course and that didn't help but the wide band does not show any tach spikes like the mega wich makes me think the output from the stock computer is ok. if it was really jumping around i think the log on the wideband would jump too.

is there a way to log the crank trigger with efilive. i didn't see a pid for that but i will look again.

 

Try running a one piece wire on crank trigger