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90mm tb ? eldebrock intake ?

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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 10:00 PM
  #41  
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got the intake, its a nice looking unit but it does uncover a lot of stuff i had hidden behind the stock intake. i dont like the stock fuel lines up there at all. there isn't enough room to do anything with them unless i make a loop.

Erik, do you know if i can just cut the stock metal fuel line and use those fittings you posted up? i could cut them prety low back there and clean it up nicely.
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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 10:50 PM
  #42  
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Yeah I think you could -- I'm thinking you mean cutting the metal tubes back near the chasis and elminating the black braided lines altogether? You could get some stainless braided and do your own from the frame up.
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 02:33 AM
  #43  
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TB -

Could you provide a little more detail about how you are relocating/reconnecting the MAP & EVAC sensors? Is it as simple as machining a particular size hole into the manifold or intake elbow and insert the sensor (sort of like a fuel injector bung)? How did you secure the sensors at their new locations?

Any pics of your set-up?

Thanks
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 09:25 AM
  #44  
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The MAP I just pulled off the rubber grommet and mated the sensor to a piece of vacuum line. I'm still undecided on the EVAC whether to plug it or do the same thing -- leaning towards plugging it though.

No pics yet, truck is still a work in progress.
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 09:58 AM
  #45  
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Jim, when I went to the Speed inc fuel rails and aeromotive return style regulator on my LS1 intake I cut the hard line down behind the intake. I tried to use the compression union - AN fittings but I messed up and didnt leave enough straight tube for the fitting to slide over and allow the ferrel to grab onto the tube. I only had about 3/4" until a bend and you need about 1.25". I didn't have enough room back there with the engine in to recut it so I just used 2 fuel injection screw clamps and slipped the braided hose over it. I will probably re-do that now that the engine is out.
Luckily the fuel lines OD aren't metric so that helps with the fittings. I used the evap canister line as the return line and rigged it back at the tank just bypassing the cansiter under the bed. Doing so, I lost my vent path for filling the tank with fuel and it would puke out if I didn't go really slow so I put a standard fuel cell roll over check valve on the top of the tank and ran a vent tube up high in the wheel well. If I was to do it again I would just put a bulkhead AN fitting in the top side of the tank somewhere for the return line.

Last edited by mjhoward; Aug 15, 2006 at 10:05 AM.
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 05:13 PM
  #46  
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Jim, have you seen this - http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/in...howtopic=23594

DAMN!! just now noticed that was Eric.......
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 05:16 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by bigredexpress99
Jim, have you seen this - http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/in...howtopic=23594

DAMN!! just now noticed that was Eric.......
ha, funny. i got the parts for that but i dont like the way it lays out so i am just going to cut the lines back farther and use the same fittings. should work out well.

i think eric said to use the stock gaskets and trim the plastic off but it seems to me the seperate orings are the ones we are suppose to use?
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 07:58 PM
  #48  
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well, per edelbrock, it calls for the individual ones. but, if trimming the plastic off the truck intake gaskets work...why not? I guess you'll know if it works or not when you fire it up and you either have a "smooth" running engine (if you can call yours that)....or a huge vacuum leak. I'm not in it for the money, and if modding the stock truck gaskets doesnt cost anything, why not? Will it be that much more work to put the other ones in if they dont work? I cant see it being too terrible....
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 08:10 PM
  #49  
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i would rather use the seperate orings if that is what is designed for
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 08:48 PM
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thinking out loud here
but how difficult would it be to run 2 78mm TBs on a TT setup?
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