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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 10:52 PM
  #311  
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
.......and show him a good time
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 03:20 PM
  #312  
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I'm about to drill a hole in the top of my fuel bucket to run the power wires and ground wires to the pumps. My questions is how would I seal that hole at the top of the bucket so that it's not leaking anything into or out of the tank.

So far I've got three things at my disposal...
JBWeld
Loctight Plastic Epoxy (2-part)
Ultra Gray RTV

What's the best to use or should I use a combination of them?
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 07:55 PM
  #313  
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Use a tight fitting grommet and some ultra gray, imo.

Edit: https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...ighlight=bosch Check posts #22-24
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 08:52 PM
  #314  
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Wow, thanks. Never saw that thread!!

I've decided that I'm gonna run one pump via the stock harness and the second one with a switch tied into the dash, which will also control the Hi-low boost controller. That way if I turn on high boost, second pump will kick in at the turn of a switch.
Other option is the run a Hobbs switch but with everything being so far back in the frame...I think it's just easier this way. And I also won't have to run four pump wires out of the pump, just two.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 09:24 PM
  #315  
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Originally Posted by Spoolin
Wow, thanks. Never saw that thread!!

I've decided that I'm gonna run one pump via the stock harness and the second one with a switch tied into the dash, which will also control the Hi-low boost controller. That way if I turn on high boost, second pump will kick in at the turn of a switch.
Other option is the run a Hobbs switch but with everything being so far back in the frame...I think it's just easier this way. And I also won't have to run four pump wires out of the pump, just two.
pics of this clusterfuck of wires and plumbing? jesus that sounds confusing
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 02:59 AM
  #316  
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I'm trying to make it as simple as can be really. I like soldering and stuff like that but hate creating wiring circuitry. So the simpler I can make it the better off it will be for me. Running a Hobbs switch, although more practical is not something I wanna tackle. I was hoping to have this running by the end of the weekend/early week but it's not gonna happen. I still need to find a 28" radiator, and a few other items that are eluding me. Hopefully by mid February.
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 09:48 AM
  #317  
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I have a 28" radiator here at the shop with your name on it.
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 10:21 AM
  #318  
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It shouldnt matter if you use a hobbs swith or a toggle (hi boost) switch. Should be the same amount of wires.....
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 10:05 PM
  #319  
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Anyone know if these come off?



They are the plastic nipple fittings that route coolant into the heater core, I don't want to break them but if they don't come off than I'm probably gonna have to cut them off. I wasn't planning on not running the heating system but due to fitment issues with something it's gotta go.
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 10:14 PM
  #320  
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dont they have clips holding them on like the fuel lines at the pump?
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