Jake's '05 Rcsb s488 4l80 build
Sep 25, 2016 | 05:00 AM
#191
man that looks like a bunch of **** lol
I'm back to work so it will be a few days before i can dick with it again. Hopefully i can get it figured out without having to worry about all that extra wiring ****
I'm back to work so it will be a few days before i can dick with it again. Hopefully i can get it figured out without having to worry about all that extra wiring ****
Sep 25, 2016 | 06:44 PM
#192
Had a bright idea...i think. Shouldn't i be able to run the engine harness stand alone and the bcm still connected to the fuse box to run the gauges,lights, locks, etc.? Basically i would make the connections on the engine harness to the necessary spots ( TCC switch, tach, speedo and starter) and provide fused power to all the wires needing power (coils, injectors, etc.)
Sounds good to me! Is it too good to be true
Sounds good to me! Is it too good to be true
Sep 26, 2016 | 01:14 AM
#193
Likely not. The bcm communicates with the ecu and the slightest incorrect modification can cause the whole system to go haywire. Ask me how I know. It was the reason I did whtat i did in the end.
My first attempt at the wiring solution was the exact same idea that you had. I basically took the stock harness and deleted (actually de-pinned all the unnecessary wiring). I went about this in a very detail oriented matter as a cleanly/properly wired car ads a very nice detail. I tried relentlessly to chase down the issue, but the communication between all the factory systems is extremely complex. Once you cut something out that can be can't be out, it is damn near impossible to track the issue down and fix it. I spent countless hours trying to do what you are talking about and never got a good result.
Hell, the first time I turned the key to the "on" position, it turned me heated side view mirrors into what looked like a coke float. The side mirrors where ruined from that point. So after all the time I spent unwrapping the factory harnesses, tracing everything I didn't need and then getting it bundled back up up and installed, I had no choice but to start over. Which was what I should have done in the first place.
In my opinion, the biggest benefit to re-wiring in this manor makes that the harnesses are all "modular". Meaning they are separate from each other. This makes trouble shooting issues easy and also the install/removal of the harnesses become very simple in the even you would ever like to do something like getting the truck painted professionally. Another benefit would be adding or subcontracting systems in the future very easy. The last benefit is weight. You would not believe how much the entire electrical system weighs in a truck like this.
My first attempt at the wiring solution was the exact same idea that you had. I basically took the stock harness and deleted (actually de-pinned all the unnecessary wiring). I went about this in a very detail oriented matter as a cleanly/properly wired car ads a very nice detail. I tried relentlessly to chase down the issue, but the communication between all the factory systems is extremely complex. Once you cut something out that can be can't be out, it is damn near impossible to track the issue down and fix it. I spent countless hours trying to do what you are talking about and never got a good result.
Hell, the first time I turned the key to the "on" position, it turned me heated side view mirrors into what looked like a coke float. The side mirrors where ruined from that point. So after all the time I spent unwrapping the factory harnesses, tracing everything I didn't need and then getting it bundled back up up and installed, I had no choice but to start over. Which was what I should have done in the first place.
In my opinion, the biggest benefit to re-wiring in this manor makes that the harnesses are all "modular". Meaning they are separate from each other. This makes trouble shooting issues easy and also the install/removal of the harnesses become very simple in the even you would ever like to do something like getting the truck painted professionally. Another benefit would be adding or subcontracting systems in the future very easy. The last benefit is weight. You would not believe how much the entire electrical system weighs in a truck like this.
Last edited by Blown06; Sep 26, 2016 at 01:26 AM.
Sep 26, 2016 | 09:19 PM
#195
Alright call me stubborn or stupid but I disconnected the c2 connector from engine harness to the fuse box and left all the bcm connectors plugged and everything worked (lights,locks etc.) So to me it seems like with the c2 disconnected and all the truck functions working I should be able to run the engine harness by itself with fused and ignition keyed power all while maintaining the stock fuse box powering the bcm and still communicating signal from the ecm to bcm.
Does that make sense or no?
Does that make sense or no?
Sep 28, 2016 | 01:32 AM
#197
One thing to mention, although it probably doesn't really matter, I'm not sure what year your truck is, but I believe mine is a little newer. You also mention you have manual windows and such. When I went shopping for my truck I went to every dealership in town with a very specific description that I wanted. My demand where: had to be a single cab short bed, had to be a 5.3, had to be a G80 w/3.73, had to be black and beyond that I wanted the absolute minimum options. Meaning, no power windows and locks, regular a/c, lowest grade sound system....you get the point.
When I bought my truck new, I already had the plan in place to turn it into a drag truck with a complete disregard to warranty, resale value or anything (you should have seen the guys face when I was signing the loan papers and he was pushing warranties and lojack bullshit and gap insurance. It was priceless. I basically told him, when the truck gets home, its getting cut up.
The point of the story is this. I bought the truck late in 2006 and my options where very limited and did not want to step into the 2007 nnbs (I was unaware of them producing any of the 2007 classic models at the time). Because of the depleted inventory and me not wanting to wait for a custom ordered truck I ended up having to settle on all of my driveline wishes, but the truck was optioned to the hilt coming in at a fat *** 4710 lbs without me in it. Once I finally got all of the wiring and related components out it filled up two huge tubs I bought from walmart and the **** probably weighed nearly 75lbs. At that point, I had to just throw my hands up in surrender and admit that even if victory could be had.......it was going to come at a cost, time line and the need for non-over the counter medication I had no desire to **** with.
Your truck may in fact be simpler enough that you can get your desired outcome and I hope you do. I'm ready to go for a ride in that bitch.
Sorry for the rambling on. Once again.....I'm just ******* bored randomly typing **** on the internet cause I'm too broke at the moment to put fuel in mine.
When I bought my truck new, I already had the plan in place to turn it into a drag truck with a complete disregard to warranty, resale value or anything (you should have seen the guys face when I was signing the loan papers and he was pushing warranties and lojack bullshit and gap insurance. It was priceless. I basically told him, when the truck gets home, its getting cut up.
The point of the story is this. I bought the truck late in 2006 and my options where very limited and did not want to step into the 2007 nnbs (I was unaware of them producing any of the 2007 classic models at the time). Because of the depleted inventory and me not wanting to wait for a custom ordered truck I ended up having to settle on all of my driveline wishes, but the truck was optioned to the hilt coming in at a fat *** 4710 lbs without me in it. Once I finally got all of the wiring and related components out it filled up two huge tubs I bought from walmart and the **** probably weighed nearly 75lbs. At that point, I had to just throw my hands up in surrender and admit that even if victory could be had.......it was going to come at a cost, time line and the need for non-over the counter medication I had no desire to **** with.
Your truck may in fact be simpler enough that you can get your desired outcome and I hope you do. I'm ready to go for a ride in that bitch.
Sorry for the rambling on. Once again.....I'm just ******* bored randomly typing **** on the internet cause I'm too broke at the moment to put fuel in mine.
Sep 28, 2016 | 04:14 AM
#198
One thing to mention, although it probably doesn't really matter, I'm not sure what year your truck is, but I believe mine is a little newer. You also mention you have manual windows and such. When I went shopping for my truck I went to every dealership in town with a very specific description that I wanted. My demand where: had to be a single cab short bed, had to be a 5.3, had to be a G80 w/3.73, had to be black and beyond that I wanted the absolute minimum options. Meaning, no power windows and locks, regular a/c, lowest grade sound system....you get the point.
When I bought my truck new, I already had the plan in place to turn it into a drag truck with a complete disregard to warranty, resale value or anything (you should have seen the guys face when I was signing the loan papers and he was pushing warranties and lojack bullshit and gap insurance. It was priceless. I basically told him, when the truck gets home, its getting cut up.
The point of the story is this. I bought the truck late in 2006 and my options where very limited and did not want to step into the 2007 nnbs (I was unaware of them producing any of the 2007 classic models at the time). Because of the depleted inventory and me not wanting to wait for a custom ordered truck I ended up having to settle on all of my driveline wishes, but the truck was optioned to the hilt coming in at a fat *** 4710 lbs without me in it. Once I finally got all of the wiring and related components out it filled up two huge tubs I bought from walmart and the **** probably weighed nearly 75lbs. At that point, I had to just throw my hands up in surrender and admit that even if victory could be had.......it was going to come at a cost, time line and the need for non-over the counter medication I had no desire to **** with.
Your truck may in fact be simpler enough that you can get your desired outcome and I hope you do. I'm ready to go for a ride in that bitch.
Sorry for the rambling on. Once again.....I'm just ******* bored randomly typing **** on the internet cause I'm too broke at the moment to put fuel in mine.
When I bought my truck new, I already had the plan in place to turn it into a drag truck with a complete disregard to warranty, resale value or anything (you should have seen the guys face when I was signing the loan papers and he was pushing warranties and lojack bullshit and gap insurance. It was priceless. I basically told him, when the truck gets home, its getting cut up.
The point of the story is this. I bought the truck late in 2006 and my options where very limited and did not want to step into the 2007 nnbs (I was unaware of them producing any of the 2007 classic models at the time). Because of the depleted inventory and me not wanting to wait for a custom ordered truck I ended up having to settle on all of my driveline wishes, but the truck was optioned to the hilt coming in at a fat *** 4710 lbs without me in it. Once I finally got all of the wiring and related components out it filled up two huge tubs I bought from walmart and the **** probably weighed nearly 75lbs. At that point, I had to just throw my hands up in surrender and admit that even if victory could be had.......it was going to come at a cost, time line and the need for non-over the counter medication I had no desire to **** with.
Your truck may in fact be simpler enough that you can get your desired outcome and I hope you do. I'm ready to go for a ride in that bitch.
Sorry for the rambling on. Once again.....I'm just ******* bored randomly typing **** on the internet cause I'm too broke at the moment to put fuel in mine.
Oct 3, 2016 | 11:57 AM
#200
Well i can't build oil pressure. I tried cranking it with plugs out. No flow thru the turbo feed so I drained the oil and hooked a hose up to the oil filter port and pumped in fresh oil, never saw it at the push rods. The oil would flow thru then come out after a few seconds at the return to the oil filter. If i covered the return with my finger oil would flow thru the turbo feed line. So I figured it was good. Put the filter back on and filled up with oil. Still nothing on the crank no flow thru the turbo feed line or push rods. I guess my next step is to pull the oil pan and check the o ring...fml