Another 4.8 Bites The Dust!!!!!!!!!!
#31
Originally Posted by FarmTruc
What are you talking about Crazycuter4.8, I just checked his file and the rpm shifts are at 6200 just like he requested, the up shifts are at 38mph as well. In order for a shift to happen, it has to meet both requirements. SO, it doesn't really matter if i had the 1-2 shift at 15mph, as long as the rpm 1-2 shift was at 6200rpms.
At what point were the ltrims at +17??? I'm sure they weren't +17 all the time. Plus, ltrim values are beaten to death, the pcm has a job to do, if they are positive fine, if they are negative fine, that is what the pcm is supposed to do. You can tune for ltrims in one city and drive home, now they are different. Keep trying to chase the ltrim values and you're going to be working on that tune for a long time, get them close and let the pcm do it's job. I agree +17 is a little high, but that could be the cause of a lot of things.
Where are you getting this 5800rpm value from? Are you just guessing on the values or did you actually read it? Also, you may want to read up on what the ETC actually does. I just checked all his tunes, and that value is still stock, you're looking at the wrong rpm limiter!
And so what about the 6700rpm limiter, you have to raise that or you'll run into hitting the limiter. The stock rpm shift table is 400-500 rpms higher than the stock rev limiter.
The application you are using has a help file, try using it!
Good luck tuning,
allen
At what point were the ltrims at +17??? I'm sure they weren't +17 all the time. Plus, ltrim values are beaten to death, the pcm has a job to do, if they are positive fine, if they are negative fine, that is what the pcm is supposed to do. You can tune for ltrims in one city and drive home, now they are different. Keep trying to chase the ltrim values and you're going to be working on that tune for a long time, get them close and let the pcm do it's job. I agree +17 is a little high, but that could be the cause of a lot of things.
Where are you getting this 5800rpm value from? Are you just guessing on the values or did you actually read it? Also, you may want to read up on what the ETC actually does. I just checked all his tunes, and that value is still stock, you're looking at the wrong rpm limiter!
And so what about the 6700rpm limiter, you have to raise that or you'll run into hitting the limiter. The stock rpm shift table is 400-500 rpms higher than the stock rev limiter.
The application you are using has a help file, try using it!
Good luck tuning,
allen
I took the 5700 rpm limit as coming from the limit where the electronic throttle would begin closing, or the soft rev limiter.
#32
Originally Posted by FarmTruc
Flyer, are you going to start again?
I'll keep this off line, pm me with the other people, I'll be more than glad to fix them up.
allen
I'll keep this off line, pm me with the other people, I'll be more than glad to fix them up.
allen
Just for the record though ... I don't those people would appreciate me telling their problems. It's not my place to do that. If they have a problem .. they should tell you. I'm just stating my personal observation.
#33
Originally Posted by TigerFan187
it doesnt matter because I went lean without the n20. My timing in the tune I just got was 24 degrees and before the updated tune I was spraying with 34 degrees of timing at WOT and my A/F was fine.
Originally Posted by vanillagorilla
But from what it sounds like to me, the problem occured after you sprayed, and initially heard the noise. It probably caused a crack, it propagated, spraying it again didn't help, then finally it let go.
#34
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From: san antonio, tx
Originally Posted by Flyer
I think that would be better.
Just for the record though ... I don't those people would appreciate me telling their problems. It's not my place to do that. If they have a problem .. they should tell you. I'm just stating my personal observation.
Just for the record though ... I don't those people would appreciate me telling their problems. It's not my place to do that. If they have a problem .. they should tell you. I'm just stating my personal observation.
I can respect that, I'll just wait to hear from them if they have any problems.
If I don't hear from anyone, all I can assume is everything is ok, lol. I know all businesses are like that.
later,
allen
#35
Originally Posted by TigerFan187
it doesnt matter because I went lean without the n20. My timing in the tune I just got was 24 degrees and before the updated tune I was spraying with 34 degrees of timing at WOT and my A/F was fine. But this all happened last night with just motor! Im almost positivemy injectors arent maxed. Im not blaming anyone but I want to figure it out for you and others reference if needed or wanted! Ive had 5 or 6 tuned now with this truck and it wasnt something that was going to settle down after a relearn it was to drastic!
Or, the wrong file could have been sent, or you could have loaded the wrong file yourself...I don't know.
Trying to mail order a tune for a new cam is
...it really needs to be tuned on the dyno for best results.I agree with some of the others....you broke something with the N2O and it went when you got on it with the new tune and just looked like it was the new tune that did it. Since you were monitoring it with a Tech2, if it was running lean it would have been crazy to floor it. I think the motor went when you hit WOT and what you were monitoring was cause by the motor biting the dust.
#36
I don't think tigerfan has any way of programming the PCM. Crazy has EDIT and should be able to download the tune on the PCM and read it, but not be able to write changes to the PCM. Crazy also has logging tools, again, I don't think that tiger has any way of logging either.
#37
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From: san antonio, tx
I can tell you this, trying to read a scanner such as atap, efilive, genisys, techII, is one hell of a job for the passenger. When you have a decent powered truck that will burn out, slide sideways, shift hard, etc, it will throw you around a bit and I always have to use something that can record, because trying to read something while hauling *** is very hard
I can only guess like others, but if it happened at part throttle and no N20, then something was weak. Running lean at part throttle only once like you said, will usually not hurt anything.
When trucks come into the shop and we put a wide band on them, and start tuning, and the truck is very lean on the top end (because of some mods) 100% throttle, 5000 rpms +, , the engine has never blown. And being that the truck was already running like that, I'm sure it wasn't the first time the truck saw high rpms while running lean and was still together.
Of course, anything can happen.
Good luck on the LS1, you'll enjoy the power
allen
I can only guess like others, but if it happened at part throttle and no N20, then something was weak. Running lean at part throttle only once like you said, will usually not hurt anything.
When trucks come into the shop and we put a wide band on them, and start tuning, and the truck is very lean on the top end (because of some mods) 100% throttle, 5000 rpms +, , the engine has never blown. And being that the truck was already running like that, I'm sure it wasn't the first time the truck saw high rpms while running lean and was still together.
Of course, anything can happen.
Good luck on the LS1, you'll enjoy the power
allen
#38
I pulled my bin file in hptuners and changed the gear ratio and reloaded it and it ran like ****! I reloaded the exact same file and it worked perfect. There are ALWAYS going to be glitches, that is the chance you take with a mail order tune.
Next:
Before the truck I owned a 2000 Eclipse GT (yeah I know) It was a 3.0 v6 and I added a turbo (from a cyclone, I forget the part number) and sidemounted intercooler, holley boost dependent fmu, but stock injectors (BAD!!). One night after a race the car died. I started it back up and it had a TERRIBLE knocking and misfire. Whoops, I broke it. Only had 12k on the car. I took it home, removed everything, replaced the oil pan, and went to put the stock plugs back in. I pulled number 6 and the plug was flattened. I put in stock plugs and in ran fine, just like when it was new. I drove the car for 5 weeks before it did it again. Hard misfire. This time it was all stock, so I just called the dealer and had them bring it in.
They tore it apart and #6 was missing its ring land and one of the compression rings, and the heads and valves were beat to ****.
They tried to make me pay, saying I dropped something in the motor when I had the intake off (they looked up and found out I had purchased a new set of spark plug wires since I wanted to put stock ones back on) After a couple weeks I got them to pick up the 9800.00 tab.
My point is, a broken motor will run fucked up. He broke his engine spraying on it, that's it, no question about it. He prolly bounced off the rev limiter a couple times, or it was just weak.
Breaking **** is all part of the game. You choose to play. Going with a mail order tune is ALWAYS a little risky with forced induction. I did it for a while, and at my point I need to start doing dyno tuning to get more power and stay safe. So I bought HPTuners. Allen has been more than helpful, helping me learn the software and etc.. mailing bin files back and forth with comments and suggestions.
Is a mail order tune from Nelson the best and safest way? Absolutely not, it cant be, no mail order tune can. Can you blame him if the bin loaded wrong, or something broke, or you have differences of opinion on how to tune? No. He's done hundreds of tunes for people and most have been happy. I can't think of one person who has posted blaming allen for a blown motor, most of my complaints I've seen are not being able to get ahold of him. From my experiences (reading allen's tunes for my truck, and my buddies 6.0 camaro ss) he always keeps them a little overly safe (rich, and not much more timing than a hypertech or diablo)
Choke it up as experience, forced induction is ALWAYS risky, no matter what form.
Crazy: If you're a tuning expert (not saying you are or are not) why were you not tuning the truck for him? Tuning it in person can make more power than mail order...
Next:
Before the truck I owned a 2000 Eclipse GT (yeah I know) It was a 3.0 v6 and I added a turbo (from a cyclone, I forget the part number) and sidemounted intercooler, holley boost dependent fmu, but stock injectors (BAD!!). One night after a race the car died. I started it back up and it had a TERRIBLE knocking and misfire. Whoops, I broke it. Only had 12k on the car. I took it home, removed everything, replaced the oil pan, and went to put the stock plugs back in. I pulled number 6 and the plug was flattened. I put in stock plugs and in ran fine, just like when it was new. I drove the car for 5 weeks before it did it again. Hard misfire. This time it was all stock, so I just called the dealer and had them bring it in.
They tore it apart and #6 was missing its ring land and one of the compression rings, and the heads and valves were beat to ****.
They tried to make me pay, saying I dropped something in the motor when I had the intake off (they looked up and found out I had purchased a new set of spark plug wires since I wanted to put stock ones back on) After a couple weeks I got them to pick up the 9800.00 tab.
My point is, a broken motor will run fucked up. He broke his engine spraying on it, that's it, no question about it. He prolly bounced off the rev limiter a couple times, or it was just weak.
Breaking **** is all part of the game. You choose to play. Going with a mail order tune is ALWAYS a little risky with forced induction. I did it for a while, and at my point I need to start doing dyno tuning to get more power and stay safe. So I bought HPTuners. Allen has been more than helpful, helping me learn the software and etc.. mailing bin files back and forth with comments and suggestions.
Is a mail order tune from Nelson the best and safest way? Absolutely not, it cant be, no mail order tune can. Can you blame him if the bin loaded wrong, or something broke, or you have differences of opinion on how to tune? No. He's done hundreds of tunes for people and most have been happy. I can't think of one person who has posted blaming allen for a blown motor, most of my complaints I've seen are not being able to get ahold of him. From my experiences (reading allen's tunes for my truck, and my buddies 6.0 camaro ss) he always keeps them a little overly safe (rich, and not much more timing than a hypertech or diablo)
Choke it up as experience, forced induction is ALWAYS risky, no matter what form.
Crazy: If you're a tuning expert (not saying you are or are not) why were you not tuning the truck for him? Tuning it in person can make more power than mail order...
#39
Ok my n20 awtup includes the followinf digital window switch(cuts off at 6000rpms),TPS Switch,FPSS switch,and anything else you can imagine. I hadnt sprayed my truck in damn near 2 weeks! The last time I did spray it I was on the dyno and the TECH-2 was also hooked up and all was very fine. SInce then I have psuhed this truck hard with no problem. When I got the new tune and things were acting funny(shifts,idleing,etcc...) and CRAZYCUTER4.8 was rifding pasanger with the TECH-2 specifically watching. My truck is by far a beast and it isnt that hard to read monitoring. Im not blaiming anything on anyone. The n20 could have caused the problem but 2 weeks later and a new tune is when it happened! This truck is my daily driver!
#40
About 4 weeks ago I got the n2o hooked up with the digital window switch,TPS switch,FPSS switch,A/F switch,and anything else you can think. SO bumping the rev limiter while spraying wasnt a an issue. I sprayed for the 2nd time and then clank from under the hood. It was now making a slight knock on acceleration. B&M Racing replaced the cam,springs,and pushrods and the noise was completly gone. I have since driven the truck for 3+weeks and all was great except I didnt have an updated tune for the cam but it was still driving fine! I sprayed twice more on the dyno a week after that and everything was great. I had 34 degree timing and spraying 100 shot and there was no KR at all per TECH-2. I got my tune from Allen(I do not tune myself) this Monday and installed it. The truck was running strong that morning because when I put it in I drove around for about 5 miles getting into it and seeing if all was good except some shifting issues and it seemed to be reving really high. I emailed Allen to get his thoughts and to see if we can fix it or whatever. That night I brought it to CRAZYCUTER4.8's to get his advice on the idling,revs,and shifts as well as hook the TECH-2 up to it. Since he has unlimited access to one we use it all the time. We went on a drive and about 2 miles down the road this all happened-no n20! Im will not blame anyone for this nor have I its my problem regardless of the cause. Not to say that the 4 times I sprayed over the last 4 weeks and not spraying the last 2 of those four weeks caused this and it just happened to happen at that time. Anything is possible. I just dont want this to happen to someone else who wont able to have access to a engine on demand or the money to spend(like me know
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