Another 4.8 Bites The Dust!!!!!!!!!!
Jan 6, 2005 | 08:45 AM
#41
Originally Posted by retsell
I pulled my bin file in hptuners and changed the gear ratio and reloaded it and it ran like ****! I reloaded the exact same file and it worked perfect. There are ALWAYS going to be glitches, that is the chance you take with a mail order tune.
Next:
Before the truck I owned a 2000 Eclipse GT (yeah I know) It was a 3.0 v6 and I added a turbo (from a cyclone, I forget the part number) and sidemounted intercooler, holley boost dependent fmu, but stock injectors (BAD!!). One night after a race the car died. I started it back up and it had a TERRIBLE knocking and misfire. Whoops, I broke it. Only had 12k on the car. I took it home, removed everything, replaced the oil pan, and went to put the stock plugs back in. I pulled number 6 and the plug was flattened. I put in stock plugs and in ran fine, just like when it was new. I drove the car for 5 weeks before it did it again. Hard misfire. This time it was all stock, so I just called the dealer and had them bring it in.
They tore it apart and #6 was missing its ring land and one of the compression rings, and the heads and valves were beat to ****.
They tried to make me pay, saying I dropped something in the motor when I had the intake off (they looked up and found out I had purchased a new set of spark plug wires since I wanted to put stock ones back on) After a couple weeks I got them to pick up the 9800.00 tab.
My point is, a broken motor will run fucked up. He broke his engine spraying on it, that's it, no question about it. He prolly bounced off the rev limiter a couple times, or it was just weak.
Breaking **** is all part of the game. You choose to play. Going with a mail order tune is ALWAYS a little risky with forced induction. I did it for a while, and at my point I need to start doing dyno tuning to get more power and stay safe. So I bought HPTuners. Allen has been more than helpful, helping me learn the software and etc.. mailing bin files back and forth with comments and suggestions.
Is a mail order tune from Nelson the best and safest way? Absolutely not, it cant be, no mail order tune can. Can you blame him if the bin loaded wrong, or something broke, or you have differences of opinion on how to tune? No. He's done hundreds of tunes for people and most have been happy. I can't think of one person who has posted blaming allen for a blown motor, most of my complaints I've seen are not being able to get ahold of him. From my experiences (reading allen's tunes for my truck, and my buddies 6.0 camaro ss) he always keeps them a little overly safe (rich, and not much more timing than a hypertech or diablo)
Choke it up as experience, forced induction is ALWAYS risky, no matter what form.
Crazy: If you're a tuning expert (not saying you are or are not) why were you not tuning the truck for him? Tuning it in person can make more power than mail order...
Next:
Before the truck I owned a 2000 Eclipse GT (yeah I know) It was a 3.0 v6 and I added a turbo (from a cyclone, I forget the part number) and sidemounted intercooler, holley boost dependent fmu, but stock injectors (BAD!!). One night after a race the car died. I started it back up and it had a TERRIBLE knocking and misfire. Whoops, I broke it. Only had 12k on the car. I took it home, removed everything, replaced the oil pan, and went to put the stock plugs back in. I pulled number 6 and the plug was flattened. I put in stock plugs and in ran fine, just like when it was new. I drove the car for 5 weeks before it did it again. Hard misfire. This time it was all stock, so I just called the dealer and had them bring it in.
They tore it apart and #6 was missing its ring land and one of the compression rings, and the heads and valves were beat to ****.
They tried to make me pay, saying I dropped something in the motor when I had the intake off (they looked up and found out I had purchased a new set of spark plug wires since I wanted to put stock ones back on) After a couple weeks I got them to pick up the 9800.00 tab.
My point is, a broken motor will run fucked up. He broke his engine spraying on it, that's it, no question about it. He prolly bounced off the rev limiter a couple times, or it was just weak.
Breaking **** is all part of the game. You choose to play. Going with a mail order tune is ALWAYS a little risky with forced induction. I did it for a while, and at my point I need to start doing dyno tuning to get more power and stay safe. So I bought HPTuners. Allen has been more than helpful, helping me learn the software and etc.. mailing bin files back and forth with comments and suggestions.
Is a mail order tune from Nelson the best and safest way? Absolutely not, it cant be, no mail order tune can. Can you blame him if the bin loaded wrong, or something broke, or you have differences of opinion on how to tune? No. He's done hundreds of tunes for people and most have been happy. I can't think of one person who has posted blaming allen for a blown motor, most of my complaints I've seen are not being able to get ahold of him. From my experiences (reading allen's tunes for my truck, and my buddies 6.0 camaro ss) he always keeps them a little overly safe (rich, and not much more timing than a hypertech or diablo)
Choke it up as experience, forced induction is ALWAYS risky, no matter what form.
Crazy: If you're a tuning expert (not saying you are or are not) why were you not tuning the truck for him? Tuning it in person can make more power than mail order...
CRAZYCUTER4.8 wasnt tuning my truck because I met him a while after I got my tune from Allen and since he is known as the best on this board I used him. If CRAZY is blaming anyone shouldnt matter to you anyway because it isnt his motor it is mine and if you can read damn near every post I have repeated myself that regardless I will not balme anyone but myself for this. Regardless of others mishaps,opinions,praises,or whatever!
Jan 6, 2005 | 09:06 AM
#42
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 312
Likes: 0
From: Texas where Bigger is Better
Originally Posted by FarmTruc
What are you talking about Crazycuter4.8, I just checked his file and the rpm shifts are at 6200 just like he requested, the up shifts are at 38mph as well. In order for a shift to happen, it has to meet both requirements. SO, it doesn't really matter if i had the 1-2 shift at 15mph, as long as the rpm 1-2 shift was at 6200rpms.
At what point were the ltrims at +17??? I'm sure they weren't +17 all the time. Plus, ltrim values are beaten to death, the pcm has a job to do, if they are positive fine, if they are negative fine, that is what the pcm is supposed to do. You can tune for ltrims in one city and drive home, now they are different. Keep trying to chase the ltrim values and you're going to be working on that tune for a long time, get them close and let the pcm do it's job. I agree +17 is a little high, but that could be the cause of a lot of things.
Where are you getting this 5800rpm value from? Are you just guessing on the values or did you actually read it? Also, you may want to read up on what the ETC actually does. I just checked all his tunes, and that value is still stock, you're looking at the wrong rpm limiter!
And so what about the 6700rpm limiter, you have to raise that or you'll run into hitting the limiter. The stock rpm shift table is 400-500 rpms higher than the stock rev limiter.
The application you are using has a help file, try using it!
Good luck tuning,
allen
At what point were the ltrims at +17??? I'm sure they weren't +17 all the time. Plus, ltrim values are beaten to death, the pcm has a job to do, if they are positive fine, if they are negative fine, that is what the pcm is supposed to do. You can tune for ltrims in one city and drive home, now they are different. Keep trying to chase the ltrim values and you're going to be working on that tune for a long time, get them close and let the pcm do it's job. I agree +17 is a little high, but that could be the cause of a lot of things.
Where are you getting this 5800rpm value from? Are you just guessing on the values or did you actually read it? Also, you may want to read up on what the ETC actually does. I just checked all his tunes, and that value is still stock, you're looking at the wrong rpm limiter!
And so what about the 6700rpm limiter, you have to raise that or you'll run into hitting the limiter. The stock rpm shift table is 400-500 rpms higher than the stock rev limiter.
The application you are using has a help file, try using it!
Good luck tuning,
allen
the o2s dropped out during a wot pass, the truck shift speed points are set at 30 mph in first gear @ wot. The truck fell flat on its face during 1-2 shift,then would finally shift into second, holding it in 1st truck would not surpass 5800 rpm's. I am not pointing fingers or accusing anyone of the failure. He brought the vehicle over to the house so we could scan it with the tech 2 & perform the crank relearn. I feel some resentment from you on the thread & I hope you aren't directing that towards me.
as for the tune I was fairly excited about him getting it, we have identical trucks, with identical mods. I have spent countless hours with mine on the dyno with the wideband & driving around town with it as well. I was hoping there was some magic trick that I did not know about that would be unmasked by a professional tuner.
the issue with the etc, well when the truck banged out, the throttle angle closed when it hit 5800 rpm's. Of course I am just some old stupid country boy, @ a po dunk dealership in the south.
By the way the ifr rates were off, @ idle running +8% stft's, I know the values are wrong because mine are different & set @ 0- -2%
Jan 6, 2005 | 09:23 AM
#43
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 470
Likes: 0
From: Norman, OK
Originally Posted by TigerFan187
CRAZYCUTER4.8 wasnt tuning my truck because I met him a while after I got my tune from Allen and since he is known as the best on this board I used him. If CRAZY is blaming anyone shouldnt matter to you anyway because it isnt his motor it is mine and if you can read damn near every post I have repeated myself that regardless I will not balme anyone but myself for this. Regardless of others mishaps,opinions,praises,or whatever!
Jan 6, 2005 | 09:28 AM
#44
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 470
Likes: 0
From: Norman, OK
Originally Posted by CRAZYCUTER4.8
By the way the ifr rates were off, @ idle running +8% stft's, I know the values are wrong because mine are different & set @ 0- -2%
Just my .02 of course.
Jan 6, 2005 | 09:49 AM
#45
Originally Posted by CRAZYCUTER4.8
the truck shift speed points are set at 30 mph in first gear @ wot. The truck fell flat on its face during 1-2 shift,then would finally shift into second, holding it in 1st truck would not surpass 5800 rpm's.
Jan 6, 2005 | 09:51 AM
#46
Originally Posted by retsell
Mail me a tune for my truck and we'll see how close the stft and ltfts are to 0. If you find a mail order tune that's going to be perfect i will be impressed. There is no magic formula he puts all your mods into and comes up with the table values. He basically takes all your mods and says "ok, this SHOULD be this, and the cam will do this, so I need to change this" etc... It's not going to be like a dyno tune, because he's not there to see the numbers. +17 means that the tune is off some, and the computer is adjusting for it. Does it mean it could make more power? YES! Does it mean that one issue blew the motor. NO!
Just my .02 of course.
Just my .02 of course.
J/k. When I pick my truck up Ill take some pics of the damage!
Jan 6, 2005 | 09:53 AM
#47
Originally Posted by Flyer
How is the TP switch hooked up for the nitrous? That could make all the difference here.
Jan 6, 2005 | 10:29 AM
#49
Originally Posted by Flyer
Is this the first tune that you've had for the cam?
The WOT switch ... is it on the peddle, or something on the throttle body that actually looks at the throttle blade?
The WOT switch ... is it on the peddle, or something on the throttle body that actually looks at the throttle blade?
Yes it was the first tune for the cam. I didnt have a traditional WOT switch I have a TPS switch. It is all electric-supposodly the more you press the pedal the more volts it puts off and the TPS switch is activated when it reaches the volts you set it to open at.