Atomic

iTrader: (42)

*snicker snicker*

BlackGMC

iTrader: (31)

dirty mind....

Funkster

iTrader: (97)

Cool to see, good luck with the build!

oakley6575

iTrader: (5)

So I got the POS parts washer at harbor freight first thing this morning . Should be perfect for my tools and cleaning the trans parts. It was only $79.99 so even if the pump takes a dump on me, its still worth it really. I can buy and build another pump set up if need be. I'll be back in town thursday so nothing will get done until then. Maybe I will order the rebuild kit, transgo, and sure cure kit tomorrow so it will be there by the time I'm back.

mdwatts11

iTrader: (4)

Jake, I know it is a bit more money than a typical rebuild kit, but I went with 'Jake's Performance' Stage 2 rebuild kit. You can find it on his site but he provides everything you need except hard parts of course. It eliminates the need for a transgo shift kit. After talking to him, there are a lot of parts that he insists not to use in the hd2 kit.

My trans is in the shop right now getting rebuilt and the only additional part he recommended was to get a no-walk bushing for the tail. I talked to Jake about it and he said its not necessary and he uses the one he provides in his builds all the way to 1800+ hp.

Good luck with the build. You are much braver than me!

oakley6575

iTrader: (5)

Yea I thought about using that kit. I think its around $700 or something isn't it? I just can't justify the cost. It would help if I knew what in the transgo kit isn't ideal.

mdwatts11

iTrader: (4)

Yea, its around $700. But, if you subtract the cost of a hd2 its not that bad. He provides his own valve body modification parts and instructions.

I found this for you as far as what Jake recommends about the transgo kit.

INFO TAKEN FROM LS1TECH:
This is what the HD2 instructions say according to Ferocity02:

Step 1: Drill the hole in the valve body between the torque signal and "void" passages. I think this is only if using the Transgo pressure relief valve.

Step 2: Install blue springs on accumulator valve for firmness.

Step 3: Remove o-ring on shift solenoid feed filter, install new tapered plug with o-ring, install filter and orange spring, install new end plug. What does this accomplish? Is the filter not supposed to have an o-ring?

Step 4/5: Drill for Transgo pressure relief valve.

Step 6: Drill the separator plate for shift firmness. Can this be done with the stock plate?

Replace 3rd gear accumulator spring with white spring.

Discard reverse check ball in the case but keep the other 7? Is this necessary with internal dual feed?

Step 7: Install new reverse boost valve and springs into pump. Is this where I would use the Sonnax boost valve instead which is self regulating and eliminates the needs for steps 1, 4, and 5?

Step 8: Install new stronger 4th bolt and washer. I read to not do this since the ID of the Transgo bolt is smaller than stock?

Step 9: Install hollow sleeve on short end of 1-2 servo pin.

Step 10: Install new orange 1-2 accumulator spring.

Step 11: Change release springs in direct clutch. I heard this is good to do.

Step 12: Install thicker intermediate snap ring. No brainer.

Step 13: Enlarge hole to prevent pump front seal blowout. Seems like this is good to do.

Step 14: Drill a 3/64 hole in the pump between the "line" passage and the converter feed passage. Does this just boost pressure to the converter? Necessary? I read the PI recommends doing this with their converters.

....And this is what Jake says about it:

Step 1: Omit
2: Sure, not super critical.
3: Not necessary but not detrimental. Some early 4L80Es would have runaway line pressure, blow the end out of the filter, and hydraulic pressure could cause the shifter to be moved to reverse.
4/5: NO! Causes pressure control issues and trans may burnup. We tear down many cores with this mod, the valve is stuck causing minimal pressure and burnup.
6: Yes, drill to desired specs. Stock plate is OK as long as it's not worn.
7: Use one of the other. The issue is you won't know what line pressure is until you check it with a given setup.
8: NO! POS bolt will break and strip on disassembly. Stock is fine.
9: I don't like this mod. It reduces servo travel but can cause drag.
10: Not mandatory but OK.
11: If you are in the unit, yes, and drill a .060" bleed hole in the drum, irregardless of transbrake or not.
12: Yep
13: Not necessary. I've only ever seen 3 front seals blow out. One was on a high mileage motorhome, 2 were on a Supra we have dealt with that had an alignment issue with the Toyota-GM adapter.
14:Yes.

Leave the center seal off the drum.

oakley6575

iTrader: (5)

That's great info right there. I'm going to stalk jakes comments over on tech and see what else I can come up with

Thanks for the info!

oakley6575

iTrader: (5)

Just storing these threads here for reference.


4L80E internal dual feed vs. Transgo HD2 - LS1TECH
4L80E / Transgo HD2 guys, what did you drill to? - LS1TECH
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...t-drum-506779/
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...please-507451/
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...l-feed-535430/
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...build-kit.html
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...-4l80e-533241/

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...estion-541463/

http://www.atraonline.com/gears/2010...7/2010_7_8.pdf

SlowDude

iTrader: (4)

Yes. Jake did build my 80e. Had some issues with it due to no fault of his. Long story short. He bent over backwards making it right. If interested in full story call me @ eight three two - 221-77seven one. I will be glad to fill you in. I needed the trans asap. I kept my old unit and plan to build it myself using jakes parts. I did go with his lvl5 build so it should be a long while before I need to go down this road.