Yes, I read all the threads I could find with search, none of them really answered this question though

I'm looking to put a 3600-4000 stall PI converter in my truck and was wondering...would it hold up to towing 2 ton loads occasionally? If I get a multi-disc lockup, is it strong enough to hold if I have the tow tune set to engage it at 40-70MPH in 3rd or OD? I have the biggest Perma-Cool HD transmission cooler on the market.

The 2200 stall tows, well, ok at best. At medium speeds like 35-50 I can't get the truck and trailer off it's butt and moving because the powerband is out of reach. I do love the extra bit of power off the line (over stock) with this TC and I want more. I have 3.73 gears and a change is not possible right now.

 

I would say it will not last long, nor will a converter that loose even get you moving more than likely.

 

Higher stall will not help towing..


What gears do you have?? More than likely a gear change would help..Also i dont see headers listed.. What are your full mods??

 

EPS Dyno Tune
Stock 862 heads ported, ground & milled 30 thousandths
Comp Cams 218/222 114LSA +4 .600 lift
TEA Dual Gold Valve springs + pushrods
GM Performance Timing Chain set
Oil Pump pressure mod
No Cats
Level 3 4L60E w/ Precision Industries 2200 stall

No headers, 3.73 gears, can't do a gear swap at the moment due to 4x4.

Would I be better off stopping with a 3000 stall then? Once I get it up over 3500 it makes power. I like the loose feeling and mileage can't get any worse unless I drill a hole in the gas tank.

I only put about 500 towing miles a year on the truck. Everything else is just hauling ***.

 

Throw a radix on top of it and have fun. Seriously.

 

Great. Now you made me drool on my laptop while pondering the idea.

 

I just got back from a 1000 mile trip towing a 7000lb trailer. The converter worked great on the highway but is kinda the ***** getting going in 1st and 2nd. I wouldn't want to go any higher than my 2600 and was wishing for my stock stall more than once.

 

Is it because you have to keep your foot in it or because it slips too much? Do you run out to the rev limiter too easily? I was figuring more stall = more torque. Am I missing something?

Mine got going better from a stop with an extra 800 stall rpm.

 

When you had your engine built did you have it dyno tuned? I would be interested to know what the torque curve looks like. Also, if your cam is installed +4* that may be robbing you bottom end torque that would be useful in towing situations.

Based on your comments and your combination... I would suggest that you're going to be looking for a converter that stalls around 2,800 - 3,200 rpm and has multiple discs that can manage the loads you pull long term.

g

 

Yes, it was dyno tuned. I don't have exact dyno numbers (or a graph) on the current tune yet, the last pull I made was with bad spark plugs and a bad timing chain. It only laid down 263RWHP and 245ish torque (stock was 245RWHP and 220 torque). All the tuning since has been touch up work after I fixed the problems. I'll see if I can get Geoff at EPS to send me the dyno graphs.

I did install the cam to +4* as that is what was milled into the cam and I used a non-adjustable timing set this time around. As far as torque goes, I don't know if I'm actually losing any low range over the stock cam. A new dyno run is obviously a must-have.

PS: Yes, I did everything on the engine except the machining work myself- at least I figured out what not to do on this build!