New inline fuel system
05-14-2012, 08:44 PM
#21
Why did you run -8 or -10 line to the fuel rail and step it down there instead of running the smaller hose all the way back?
It would be better to put a check valve on one of the pumps and run that same pump off of a hobbs switch for boost...the pumps will last longer and put less heat in the fuel this way.
It would be better to put a check valve on one of the pumps and run that same pump off of a hobbs switch for boost...the pumps will last longer and put less heat in the fuel this way.
05-14-2012, 09:05 PM
#22
Not very loud...to me at least...
Of course, I've had an in-line pump since originally adding the ProCharger many, many years ago...first the one supplied with the kit and then a single Bosch.
The single Bosch was louder than the first one but I don't think the two are any louder. And to me, it's only noticeable when priming at start-up.
My thought was that all dual set-ups I've seen are Y'd shortly after the pumps and I figured increasing the pressure ASAP by stepping down right after the pumps made sense. 
The step from -10 in to -8 out and then Y to -6 was to feed the pumps with no struggling...the pumps inlet is M18 and the outlet is M12 so I figured I would follow the pump's lead and make the outlet feed into -8...before stepping to the -6 that I shared my thoughts on above.
I thought about a check valve but changed my mind about as fast. The pumps come with one on the end of the pumps but no one uses them. The aftermarket -AN ones are expensive for what they are. And finally, with these two pumps pushing fuel, priming is NOT an issue.
I have a Hobbs switch but figured it is just one more thing in the equation to fail electrically. I've heard of as many people that experience them failing as I have heard of people that have never had one fail. It's not a DD now like it has been for 11 years and 283k miles.
There are a LOT of Mustangs running dual pumps fulltime w/o issues. My thoughts on running them with a return style fuel system is they are just cruising along with no effort at all. The good thing about the way I have it now, is that I can make changes to it like those you suggested, and others, fairly easily.
Of course, I've had an in-line pump since originally adding the ProCharger many, many years ago...first the one supplied with the kit and then a single Bosch.
The single Bosch was louder than the first one but I don't think the two are any louder. And to me, it's only noticeable when priming at start-up.
Why did you run -8 or -10 line to the fuel rail and step it down there instead of running the smaller hose all the way back?
It would be better to put a check valve on one of the pumps and run that same pump off of a hobbs switch for boost...the pumps will last longer and put less heat in the fuel this way.
It would be better to put a check valve on one of the pumps and run that same pump off of a hobbs switch for boost...the pumps will last longer and put less heat in the fuel this way.
The step from -10 in to -8 out and then Y to -6 was to feed the pumps with no struggling...the pumps inlet is M18 and the outlet is M12 so I figured I would follow the pump's lead and make the outlet feed into -8...before stepping to the -6 that I shared my thoughts on above.
I thought about a check valve but changed my mind about as fast. The pumps come with one on the end of the pumps but no one uses them. The aftermarket -AN ones are expensive for what they are. And finally, with these two pumps pushing fuel, priming is NOT an issue.
I have a Hobbs switch but figured it is just one more thing in the equation to fail electrically. I've heard of as many people that experience them failing as I have heard of people that have never had one fail. It's not a DD now like it has been for 11 years and 283k miles.
There are a LOT of Mustangs running dual pumps fulltime w/o issues. My thoughts on running them with a return style fuel system is they are just cruising along with no effort at all. The good thing about the way I have it now, is that I can make changes to it like those you suggested, and others, fairly easily.
Last edited by Superado; 05-14-2012 at 09:18 PM.
05-14-2012, 09:46 PM
#23
This is connected to the factory return-style fuel rail correct? Are you using the stock return line?
You arent really increasing the pressure by stepping it down early, but you are increasing something called head loss. Which is basically how much resistance the pump sees. Its best to keep the line as large as possible for as long as possible for less strain on the pumps as well as more fluid volume closer to the rail during high-transients.
I believe the summit fuel filters have a built in check valve, but I may be wrong.
You arent really increasing the pressure by stepping it down early, but you are increasing something called head loss. Which is basically how much resistance the pump sees. Its best to keep the line as large as possible for as long as possible for less strain on the pumps as well as more fluid volume closer to the rail during high-transients.
I believe the summit fuel filters have a built in check valve, but I may be wrong.
05-15-2012, 04:49 AM
#24
IMO, i would have went with -8 all the way to the rails for the same reasons atomic suggested. also, i see the stock FPR having issues... i never really gave much thought into tapping the stock tank, and figured it was too thin. thats pretty sweet for sure! if i still had my truck, i would do the same thing. how much $$ do you have in the whole fuel setup? just curious
05-15-2012, 12:14 PM
#25
IMO, i would have went with -8 all the way to the rails for the same reasons atomic suggested. also, i see the stock FPR having issues... i never really gave much thought into tapping the stock tank, and figured it was too thin. thats pretty sweet for sure! if i still had my truck, i would do the same thing. how much $$ do you have in the whole fuel setup? just curious
I had thought about doing it for a few years but could never confirm that it could be done until recently.
I actually got the pumps for $98ea
a BIG reason why I went ahead and did this now.
The hose I got from a friend that still owed me for some slicks from a few years back...another BIG reason I did it now.
Filters were $49ea...price matched to Smiley's Racing.
Fittings were less than $200...
so I guess about $500 + hose...
I had the following amounts of hose, and had some of each size left over:
20' - 5/8"
10' - 1/2"
20' - 3/8"
05-16-2012, 12:07 PM
#27
05-16-2012, 02:08 PM
#29
I saw the term "type" used quite often in the description of the 040 and 044 pumps all over the internet.
The hardware pack that ships with them is identical to the Bosch.
I compared these pumps to the Bosch I already had and other than "Bosch" and a series of #'s being printed on the pump itself...they are identical.
The guy selling them had good ratings on several forums...just been a while.
His e-bay rating is high as well.