Looks decent to me

 

My biggest problem is finding tubing. I have been looking almost non-stop for a elbow coupler to go on my turbo inlet which has some odball 4.1 something inch diameter inlet. The compressor outlet also has a weird 3.4 something diameter.

For one of the most common engines and commonly swapped engines in the world, I think all the GEN IV truck engines had 87mm throttle bodies, I cannot find a elbow to hook into the throttle body either. The one I am using in the pictures just barely clears and I had to angle it at that weird stupid angle and the pipe coming from it is only about 1/2 to 1/3 of an inch from hitting the belt.

I have started trying to low temperature aluminum braze, so far I cut and joined back a aluminum intercooler pipe I had and the joint looked suprisingly good, but there was a slight leak, so just like welding pipe its still very very difficult to get a proper seal.

I tried welding in a IAT bung in the pipe going to the TB and was doing real good up until the last bit of braze and I think I got it too hot and melted a hole in the pipe and then messed up more trying to fill it and ended up with a huge molten mess, so I gave up and just put some JB weld over it haha.

 

On3 has an elbow coupler for the tb. Looks like garbage because their logo is stuck to it real well...but seems to work fine.

 

Thanks do you know if it clears the alternator? or do you have to swing it around the other way?

 

Just spit-balling here but looking at the pics, you could possibly clean up the piping using parts you already have by changing the flow direction thru the ic by clocking the compressor outlet down to enter the pass side of ic, then rotate the elbow inboard of the bov toward the front of the truck and that up/down piping 90 degrees into the throttle body.

 

So the only reason I didn't go this route is because I have both u pipes coming out from the intercooler, this was the only way I could route it since I needed the pipes to both come back inside the frame rails so I could run them up to the engine. I think there may be room to run the outside the frame rails, but I would have to do some cutting of the plastic pieces and navigate them through a maze of hoses then once I got them up above the frame, I would still have to navigate them through the small narrow space between the radiator and headlights, I think this would have been a lot more bends and turns and clamps and bends needed to do this. Other reason is that the elbow coming from the throttle body only cleared the pulley and alternator when it was rotated at the angle in the pictures, which leaves a difficult situation trying to run them down below the frame rails. I figured the way I did it would give me the best combination of shortest length and minimizing bends with them "crossed" like that. I might be able to change it up once I get the on3 piece that Smokeshow suggested. The biggest problem seems to be that I have to offset the pipe coming from the compressor wheel forward a few inches then run it down. This would require 2 very slight bends in the intercooler pipe which I don't have, although I did order 2 silicone couplers that are 45 degree angles each, but this may be too much not sure. The way I did it above, I only had to cut 2 pipes, so there is only 2 or maybe 3 connections that don't have flared ends on the end of the pipe, not sure if I am running enough boost to be able to blow a pipe off the coupler though, hopefully I will get there.

If I can get more confident in my low-temp aluminum brazing with rods and a torch, I think I can start cutting the aluminum pipes to specific bend angles and re-brazing them. I've found it very difficult to control the temperature however as the brazing rods don't melt at a low of a temperature as they say they do, and if you are not careful you can start to melt the aluminum pipe. It also is challenging to get a good seal, which is pretty critical given its a intercooler pipe.

Thank you for the tip though. I think the cheap chinesium kit I bought was only a little above 100 dollars if I remember and so far it seems pretty good and a reasonable price, of course though you are supporting the CCP haha.

I know everyone bashes a turboed MAF setup, but I would really like to get my MAF, or a LS7 style or maybe aftermarket, back in the system. I feel like a MAF is necessary for achieving stock like drivability and stock like torque based control to the transmission and stuff. It seems though people who do do a MAF setup do a "blow through" or mount it on the pressure side instead of before compressor, not sure what the deal is behind that though. I am driving myself insane trying to figure out between my wideband reading, VVE values, PE adjustments, and open loop fueling targets between EQ ratio and inverse EQ. I thought I had it down a year or so ago tuning my Camaro which is full torque based GEN V, but then I feel like the GEN IV VVE stuff is different. It's like each time I edit VVE from wideband feedback one way, it goes unstable and the complete opposite of the way I need it to go, so then I got the other way and it gets even leaner or richer. Now I am doubting that maybe I have a exhaust leak and I'm just chasing my tail. I feel like if I could get a MAF in the system I can at least get it running good enough I won't leave myself stranded not able to restart due to a hot restart lean condition. Something feels like is wrong just because I have a 100% stock motor besides the turbo and I feel like the stock VVE should be able to run it without much issues, but its running so lean it feels like it has misfires and it jolts back and forth especially when the TC locks up at lower rpms.