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408ci/TVS2300/LSA heads build

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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 10:21 PM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
Id imagine magnacharger casts the manifold that way for a reason...
Exactly. They also test it at 6psi for almost all applications. I will see if I can get in touch with BC or Joe at LC32 and see wat they have to say. I need to call BC anyway and see if they will send me the correct manifold gaskets.
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 10:21 PM
  #142  
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Yes, for efficency and quick throttle response on a "stockish" build. You are using better flowing heads, higher compression, and a bigger cam than most.
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 10:26 PM
  #143  
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I'm not against doing it if it has a positive effect. I'd like to send it to a place that has done it before. I don't want my local hack machine shop to screw it up.

Who has had it done and by who? Probably gonna have to call Joe about that huh...
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 10:34 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71
Yes, for efficency and quick throttle response on a "stockish" build. You are using better flowing heads, higher compression, and a bigger cam than most.
According to BC the TVS2300 that made 800hp for their bonneville salt flat car was an off-the-shelf blower.

Might ask supersub if he got his opened up I know he is running WCCH Stage III L92s on his 427.
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 02:06 AM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
According to BC the TVS2300 that made 800hp for their bonneville salt flat car was an off-the-shelf blower.
Hey, do you have any more info on that car? Any links? Thanks.

Now, back on topic.
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 02:16 AM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by 1SlowHoe
Ya, when I'm rotating the crank to tq the rocker arms. I put the front cover on before I put the heads on. Didn't really think that through.
The other side say 12 O'clock, to reference the cam gear dot.
I'm not really sure what that is all about. I dont think the valves would hit my pistons even if the piston was all the way up and I torqued the rocker arm on that cylinder. Is that procedure more for guys with big *** cams and milled heads?
Do you know anything about this? I'm about to go install the other head and I'm all paranoid I'm going to bend a valve if I don't do it just right.
Rotate engine to #1 TDC, bolt on Exhaust rocker W, X and Z and intake rocker T, U and Y.
The rotate engine one full turn and install Exhaust rocker T, U and Y and intake rocker W, X and Z.

I really don't remember doing this on my last cam swap. We just bolted them all down
.
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 02:39 AM
  #147  
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Oh well, why take chance?
Originally Posted by SideStep
Per the service manual.... and the only way I have ever done it.


6. Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. In this position, cylinder number one rocker arms will be off lobe lift, and the crankshaft sprocket key will be at the 1:30 position. The engine firing order is 1,8,7,2,6,5,4,3. Cylinders 1,3,5, and 7 are left bank. Cylinders 2,4,6, and 8 are right bank.

7. With the engine in the number one firing position, tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts: Tighten

.....(1) Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 1,2,7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
.....(2) Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 1,3,4, and 5 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).

8. Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees.
9. Tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts: Tighten

.....(1) Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 3,4,5, and 6 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
.....(2) Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 2,6,7, and 8 to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 02:42 AM
  #148  
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It's not about any possibility of the piston hitting a valve. That won't happen unless your cam was spec'd incorrectly.

The reason that it's recommended to torque them in this order is so that you get even torque on all of the bolts. Example: If you are torquing the bolt down while you are on the "top" of the cam lobe, then you will be fighting the valve opening. This can throw off your torque wrench, since it is adding resistance. Also, since your valve springs are usually stronger than the lifter's spring, it will usually collapse a lifter or two.
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 05:09 AM
  #149  
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Had 1 rocker arm bolt act like it was cross threading. I got about 2-3 turns and it got real tight. I'm going to have to mess with that tomorrow. Other than that the long block is about done.
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 08:59 PM
  #150  
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Check out my knock sensors:
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Guess I need to swap mine over or find a cheap set.

Last edited by 1SlowHoe; Feb 20, 2011 at 09:05 PM.
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