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Tuning for headers

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Old Jul 16, 2021 | 12:52 PM
  #21  
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Weather affects the growth of Chinessium apparently.
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Old Jul 16, 2021 | 01:23 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by shakenfake
Lol wtf?

I plan on getting the full speed engineering set. Although I love eBay I am willing to spend the extra bucks to try and get some customer support lol
Driver side crossover to the y-merge appears to have a bung for the wideband already. Passenger side does not. You can call and ask for confirmation. Many tune on one bank feedback. Should be fine if there's not an exhaust leak on either side throwing things off. It'd be more critical if you're running boost or tuning it right to the edge. 'Wideband is a must to tuning. You do want feedback from the factory O2s to dial in the VE trims, so those should stay in place as well. Your first tune, focus on getting the fuel dialed in first and brining the power enrichment in sooner, before messing with timing tables and such.
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Old Jul 16, 2021 | 01:57 PM
  #23  
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Yup you are correct Formula I hadn't noticed that before today and called and confirmed it is a wide band bung.

Okay so now question, should I get the O2 extenders and run the wideband off of say the rear O2 on the driver side?

Still figuring out how to wire up the gauge and what not to reach my computer. I think I may have found a solution where you take 2 wires off the gauge and wire them into a serial connector and then do a serial to USB. After that add a channel in HPTuners and have it read what is coming off your USB. Found it over on the LS1GTO forum.

I can get the AEM wideband from Summit, all the serial wires and what not from my job (if that does work), and then just get the headers themselves. May get some new clamps as I am not sure how well the SpeedEngineering clamps work.
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Old Jul 16, 2021 | 02:00 PM
  #24  
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If you're wanting a good seal I would do v-band clamps or weld them completely.
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Old Jul 16, 2021 | 02:04 PM
  #25  
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I guess yeah I could weld the y-pipe completely and then if I have to take it off I can just take the y-pipe off by itself. V-bands are what I was thinking about but I figured those slip fit with the two bolts on the bottom would be sufficient and better than the ones they provide, I know the horseshoe ones are pretty ***
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Old Jul 16, 2021 | 02:08 PM
  #26  
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First upgrade HP Tuners to pro, buy a wideband.
Second don't let Arthur scare you lol.

The Speed Engineering ORY has the bung in the pipe. You can put the wideband in one of the o2 narrowband header collector bungs (not recommend) as the narrowband o2's are ALWAYS disabled while data logging. You DO NOT want the narrowbands to trim the fuel while tuning.

It's better to have the wideband sensor further back from the collector so the ORY is the best place. The ORY also has the WB sensor angled correctly to avoid moisture during startup to keep the sensor from failing. I've had my wideband permanently installed for three years as I seem to always be changing up hardware plus I like glancing at my a/f mixture when I'm twisting up toward 7000 rpm.

First you have to install the wideband and add it to the scanner so you can log the air/fuel error in the VCM scanner software. After you install the wideband we can help you add it to HP Tuners.

Second download Kyle's MAF scaling video to your laptop or desktop (NOT TO YOUR MOBILE) so you can pause, rewind and fast forward to set up the VCM editor and set up the histograms in the VCM scanner. Kyle does a step by step but he talks fast so rewinding and pausing is the key.


Third download Kyles Gen 3 VE tuning video and rewind and pause to setup the VE tuning.


Basically you tune out the narrowband o2 sensors tuning both MAF & VE. When tuning MAF you have VE disabled. When tuning VE you have MAF disabled... simple enough correct?



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Old Jul 16, 2021 | 02:15 PM
  #27  
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That’s who I watched also, my SE headers are the older design so I had to weld my sensor in. I used his serial port way for my WB to hptuners, works great for me.
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Old Jul 16, 2021 | 02:17 PM
  #28  
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Okay great yes that is some good information so I am correct in saying I can put it in a rear O2 harness and use it there?

I'll watch the videos a few times to get the hang of it before I start buying and installing. Still trying to skip the pro version because that seems like such a weird necessity. I am not sure why you couldn't use the Pro Link to hook up wideband without the pro version.
Possible I am missing something here in my brain, I have to have photos, videos on top of words and explanations for me to understand. I am not sure how far advanced I am from Neanderthals

Red do you have to load up a tune that is excluding the NB O2s to tune with your wideband and then afterwards you load up a tune that does use NB or do you just disable all O2 sensors permanently? I'm going to watch these videos first before you answer that and see if I can come up with the answer on my own lol
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Old Jul 16, 2021 | 02:28 PM
  #29  
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I don’t have any rear o2 ‘s I welding mine near the collector.
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Old Jul 16, 2021 | 02:59 PM
  #30  
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Basically yes you can put the wideband sensor anywhere but it works best away from the collector. If you've watched some dyno tuning videos the tuner clips the dyno's wideband in the tailpipe exit.

I'm using the MVPI Pro so I know very little about the MVPI2 hardware so I can't advise about the pro link or pro. They'll have to force me into the newer hardware change and until then I have no need or desire learn the MVPI2 hardware.

The back story is HP Tuners rushed out the MVPI2 because someone figured out their credit to VIN algorithm and was selling the info for free lifetime credits. HP Tuners bricked everyone's device that went down that path lol. The rush to get out the new MVPI2 hardware was a total **** up and none of the promised upgrades was ready for release at the time. This left a lot of users pissed that sent in their older devices for the newer "upgrade".

Yes after making the changes Kyle shows in the video, you flash that into the PCM naming it something like "MAF Tune 1st 7-16-21". Then you log data then copy/paste/flash naming it "MAF Tune 2nd 7-16-21 rinse & repeat etc. It takes probably three to five data logs to dial in the MAF.

After you get the MAF dialed in you reverse the changes in the tables back to the previous tune before you started (except for the MAF calibration you just tuned) to enable the o2's and VE. Then flash naming it something like "MAF Final 7-xx-21"
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