Don't think Ive asked a mechanical question in years the last time I did I just wanted to make sure I understood the oil pan removal process

Recently I asked about electrical (perhaps mechanical) stuff about my C5, but the logic system is the same as the trucks and I am banned from the Corvette forum, so you guys got stuck with my drivel. I have over 11k wrapped up in that 408, you better believe I am paying $350 for a tune hahahaha

With the places I take my truck, a break down can be a fatally long walk. That $350 tune? Spent every time

You dont have to drink my koolaid, thats alright. But tuning it about looking at the data, deciphering the changes necessary and applying those changes. If you have the tools to record that data (wideband, knocks, software and datalogs) and the knowledge to make those changes- its actually pretty easy; but the cost of learning could be a motor melt down *shrug*

EFI University used to have some videos up, they might still. They might be a good place to start. If your truck is MAF, it will probably self adjust to a sufficient degree as well, perhaps no tune needed. I dont know HPT so I can't help you with what tabs to change, but small incremental changes and monitor the data- have the tools to collect that data

 

Of course my guy. There are some things I would love to know how to tune, like FI or big motors or big cams, but I do not know how and I probably will take it to someone to get tuned since that is wayyyyy up there in the skill ceiling.

 

So it is looking like I will need the pro-link to run the wideband is that correct? I was also reading about how some people are just doing some sort of serial port to usb adapter so it will display or their computer or something along those lines? Then I read you can wire it into the EGR, which I have removed from the truck.

https://www.onkilltuning.com/post/us...olink-required
Anybody ever seen this before? If I need to I'll buy the pro but seems like somewhere along the way someone must have built something lol

 

The pro link is totally worth getting IMO but I used the AC pressure sensor for tuning for years and it works fine, just sucks the ac must be off while logging data. You can use the EGR port just s effectively and have the AC on I believe but I never did it personally. I highly suggest an AEM gauge

 

AEM is what I will be purchasing yessir although the red is going to offset with all my blue controls

https://www.onkilltuning.com/post/us...olink-required This is an alternative, posted it above may have edited it and you might have missed it. Not sure if anyone here has used it

 

Okay I think I have a bit better understanding of doing the wideband. I am going to need to weld a bung into my y-pipe and stick it in there. From what I have been reading and watching you can't remove a front O2 and just let it run in open loop because it is bad (unsure of this part?) So just put it in place of a rear O2 sensor and then run it like that. I found some more videos that kind of explain how to run it off the EGR so I think I will attempt that rather than get the pro version. And I am correct when I say that I can just leave the wideband in the exhaust forever or do I need to remove it? I feel like removing it is kinda weird since why would they provide a gauge at that point, just look at the laptop lol?

 

I leave mine in forever it's easier. Yes, you can put the sensor in place of a rear O2 and avoid having to weld a bung in. The pro version is totally overpriced IMO but it beats wiring into the EGR/AC of multiple vehicles.

 

Well with an ORY I won’t have a rear O2 bung though

I agree but since this is currently my only vehivle I have no issue wiring into my unused EGR lol

 

Oh some after market catless Y pipes come with 4 O2 bungs, depends on the weather in China that week.

 

Lol wtf?

I plan on getting the full speed engineering set. Although I love eBay I am willing to spend the extra bucks to try and get some customer support lol