OEM Navigation upgrade for GMT800's
Apr 15, 2020 | 06:04 PM
#82
Sep 21, 2022 | 12:16 AM
#83
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
First off a great write up. I purchased a TNR 10377531 and 2 amps 1511454 from a local wrecking yard to install in my 2007 CC silverado 2500HD with premium bose. The install went well and I have a tech 2 and was able to do the VIN relearn and amp mod to escalade just fine. The issue I am having is the only sound I hear is very faint door chimes and music from the left front A pillar and sub woofer. The RS controls do not function. the Nav appears to work if I had a disc. Because the clock came up correctly. Tuner comes on with splash screen and controls appear to register. I tried trouble shooting with my tech2 clone and was able to see the tuner and amp. But when I tried to signal the speakers it wouldn't create the signal at speakers. So my question is ; Could I have 2 bad amps as sound is the same for both or is there something else going on that I am missing? Is there a wiring diagram available for tracing out what wires go where?
Thanks in advance for any help anybody can give on this, I realize it's an older thread but very relevant to all of us that are keeping the older stuff working
Thanks in advance for any help anybody can give on this, I realize it's an older thread but very relevant to all of us that are keeping the older stuff working
Dec 21, 2022 | 01:34 AM
#84
First off a great write up. I purchased a TNR 10377531 and 2 amps 1511454 from a local wrecking yard to install in my 2007 CC silverado 2500HD with premium bose. The install went well and I have a tech 2 and was able to do the VIN relearn and amp mod to escalade just fine. The issue I am having is the only sound I hear is very faint door chimes and music from the left front A pillar and sub woofer. The RS controls do not function. the Nav appears to work if I had a disc. Because the clock came up correctly. Tuner comes on with splash screen and controls appear to register. I tried trouble shooting with my tech2 clone and was able to see the tuner and amp. But when I tried to signal the speakers it wouldn't create the signal at speakers. So my question is ; Could I have 2 bad amps as sound is the same for both or is there something else going on that I am missing? Is there a wiring diagram available for tracing out what wires go where?
Thanks in advance for any help anybody can give on this, I realize it's an older thread but very relevant to all of us that are keeping the older stuff working
Thanks in advance for any help anybody can give on this, I realize it's an older thread but very relevant to all of us that are keeping the older stuff working
Where you able to get it figured out?
Dec 21, 2022 | 09:49 AM
#85
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
By the way thanks for responding and Merry Christmas
Dec 21, 2022 | 12:34 PM
#86
First off a great write up. I purchased a TNR 10377531 and 2 amps 1511454 from a local wrecking yard to install in my 2007 CC silverado 2500HD with premium bose. The install went well and I have a tech 2 and was able to do the VIN relearn and amp mod to escalade just fine. The issue I am having is the only sound I hear is very faint door chimes and music from the left front A pillar and sub woofer. The RS controls do not function. the Nav appears to work if I had a disc. Because the clock came up correctly. Tuner comes on with splash screen and controls appear to register. I tried trouble shooting with my tech2 clone and was able to see the tuner and amp. But when I tried to signal the speakers it wouldn't create the signal at speakers. So my question is ; Could I have 2 bad amps as sound is the same for both or is there something else going on that I am missing? Is there a wiring diagram available for tracing out what wires go where?
Thanks in advance for any help anybody can give on this, I realize it's an older thread but very relevant to all of us that are keeping the older stuff working
Thanks in advance for any help anybody can give on this, I realize it's an older thread but very relevant to all of us that are keeping the older stuff working
Been busy with the holidays, so not able to take the time to work on it. I am leaning toward a class 2 data link issue. If I understand it correctly the tuner turns on the amp via the data link, so if the tuner is sending out a turn on signal but the amp is not properly connected then it wouldn't come on. Just not sure how to check out the command signal. maybe run a new class2 wire between amp and tuner?
By the way thanks for responding and Merry Christmas
By the way thanks for responding and Merry Christmas
The wiring chart is here. AMP Harness MODS
Dec 21, 2022 | 09:32 PM
#87
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I did the wiring mods per post 5. However the truck is 15 years young so maybe a chance someone else did something stupid or age caused a damaged wire. Just need to trouble shoot it all out. I was hoping for an easy fix. LOL
Dec 15, 2023 | 10:10 AM
#88
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Great writeup, I did the swap on my 07 classic. Not to bring up an old post from the dead, but seems it's still active fairly recently, and I did have a question. The gps on the map seems to move slower than my vehicle speed. If I'm on city streets or curving roads it tracks my location close enough, and the nav unit usually corrects to where I am on the next turn. But if I get on a long straight road, say even 3 miles long, it will have my position a few hundred feet behind where I actually am by the next intersection. Then if I turn, the nav gets 'lost' and I have to re-calibrate to my current location to catch it back up. I did have to add a vss wire. Before the vss wire, the gps didn't register any movement on the nav unit.
The truck does have 32 inch tires, but it is tuned for that so that my Speedo is correct, which I assumed would also correct the vss signal? The other option I was considering was a faulty gps antenna? I got the latest gm one from the part list, but the time doesn't update correctly, making me doubt if it's working properly.
I might just be at the limits of navigation tech from 15 years ago, but thought I'd ask anyway and see if there were any pointers. Thanks in advance
TNutcher
The truck does have 32 inch tires, but it is tuned for that so that my Speedo is correct, which I assumed would also correct the vss signal? The other option I was considering was a faulty gps antenna? I got the latest gm one from the part list, but the time doesn't update correctly, making me doubt if it's working properly.
I might just be at the limits of navigation tech from 15 years ago, but thought I'd ask anyway and see if there were any pointers. Thanks in advance
TNutcher
Jan 31, 2024 | 12:43 AM
#90
Convert non-lux to LUX Wiring Chart
I did the amp C2 connector (the smaller one with 8 pins) first. First use a small screwdriver to pry off the plastic retaining clips (on both rows of pins). Then look closely at the connector and you will see how the pins are held in place. There is like a little plastic tab that snaps and locks them in. This next part can get frustrating, but be patient!! Use a paper clip, safety pin or something small to insert into the holes on the connector. When you look at it you'll
understand. Push the wire into the connector to relieve pressure on the locking tab and then press the little tab out of the way and then carefully pull the pin and wire out. Don’t pull hard!!! The pins should come out easily. Once all the
pins that need to be moved are out, check the sheet for where they go, and push them into their new places. They will kind of click into place and then once you are all done, put the retaining clips back on the connectors. Then do the larger C1 connector. Work on one row at a time because I think there are some color duplicates between rows. These smaller pins are trickier to release. Remove the retaining clips. Then insert the paper clip or, even better, a small screwdriver, into the OUTER rows of holes to release the pins. (The holes that is closest to the edge of the connector) Once you have confirmed the pins are correct, you have to take the "drain wire" that you removed from the C2 connector and put it into the C1 connector (as shown in the charts). You are going to need to cut off the large pin because it won’t fit into the smaller 24 pin connector. Since there are about 6 wires/pins that you completely cut off because they are not needed (the
ones from the RSA and the amp turn on wire and the radio mute wire) with the lux amp, use one of those pins and splice it onto the end of the drain wire (I used a crimp butt-splice). Now you can stick the drain wire into its new position in the 24 pin C1 connector! Don’t throw away any of the other wires that you cut off either... One IMPORTANT wire that the amp needs that was not there previously is of course the Class II data wire (because the amp is
totally interactive with the head unit and BCM)!! You can use a simple plastic wiretap (also called a Scotch-Lock connector) and tap into the Class II wire that goes to the RSA (rear seat audio...the audio controls for the back passengers). It is the easiest Class II source
to tap into just because it is closest to the amp; theoretically you could use any Class II wire in the truck. It is a light blue wire that
goes into the RSA connector. You may also want to make a second tap on this light blue Class II wire if you intend to add a CD changer as well…because the CDX needs Class II data too. First get some extra 18 or 20 gauge wire (about a foot or so). Then crimp on one of those extra pins to the end of the wire. Put the pin into the correct position in the amp C1 connector (position B10). Then, using the plastic wiretap/Scotch-lock connector, take the other end of that wire and tap into the LIGHT BLUE wire of the RSA. Don’t cut the wire going to the RSA though!! You are basically just making a little 3 way splitter, so Class II data can get to the RSA and to the amp...
I did the amp C2 connector (the smaller one with 8 pins) first. First use a small screwdriver to pry off the plastic retaining clips (on both rows of pins). Then look closely at the connector and you will see how the pins are held in place. There is like a little plastic tab that snaps and locks them in. This next part can get frustrating, but be patient!! Use a paper clip, safety pin or something small to insert into the holes on the connector. When you look at it you'll
understand. Push the wire into the connector to relieve pressure on the locking tab and then press the little tab out of the way and then carefully pull the pin and wire out. Don’t pull hard!!! The pins should come out easily. Once all the
pins that need to be moved are out, check the sheet for where they go, and push them into their new places. They will kind of click into place and then once you are all done, put the retaining clips back on the connectors. Then do the larger C1 connector. Work on one row at a time because I think there are some color duplicates between rows. These smaller pins are trickier to release. Remove the retaining clips. Then insert the paper clip or, even better, a small screwdriver, into the OUTER rows of holes to release the pins. (The holes that is closest to the edge of the connector) Once you have confirmed the pins are correct, you have to take the "drain wire" that you removed from the C2 connector and put it into the C1 connector (as shown in the charts). You are going to need to cut off the large pin because it won’t fit into the smaller 24 pin connector. Since there are about 6 wires/pins that you completely cut off because they are not needed (the
ones from the RSA and the amp turn on wire and the radio mute wire) with the lux amp, use one of those pins and splice it onto the end of the drain wire (I used a crimp butt-splice). Now you can stick the drain wire into its new position in the 24 pin C1 connector! Don’t throw away any of the other wires that you cut off either... One IMPORTANT wire that the amp needs that was not there previously is of course the Class II data wire (because the amp is
totally interactive with the head unit and BCM)!! You can use a simple plastic wiretap (also called a Scotch-Lock connector) and tap into the Class II wire that goes to the RSA (rear seat audio...the audio controls for the back passengers). It is the easiest Class II source
to tap into just because it is closest to the amp; theoretically you could use any Class II wire in the truck. It is a light blue wire that
goes into the RSA connector. You may also want to make a second tap on this light blue Class II wire if you intend to add a CD changer as well…because the CDX needs Class II data too. First get some extra 18 or 20 gauge wire (about a foot or so). Then crimp on one of those extra pins to the end of the wire. Put the pin into the correct position in the amp C1 connector (position B10). Then, using the plastic wiretap/Scotch-lock connector, take the other end of that wire and tap into the LIGHT BLUE wire of the RSA. Don’t cut the wire going to the RSA though!! You are basically just making a little 3 way splitter, so Class II data can get to the RSA and to the amp...
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GMT 900 Trucks General Discussion
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