OEM Navigation upgrade for GMT800's
 

If your going to use this site/link in a Youtube video or any video, please give a shout out to the forum, members, and thank all members as its a combined effort, I listed the known members from the other forums for their generous knowledge, along with my contribution with pics, updates, fix, part numbers etc.
Special Thanks: Ben Tyler, Andrew Fessler (DURAtotheMAXX)

If I have missed anyone, please, please, send me your info I will add you for any additional info you can prove.

This is a work in progress, I know some of the links dont work I am working to host them myself, bear with me.

THANK YOU.

TNR install PDF has been added here and post # 2.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...tall_guide.pdf


IF YOU NEED HELP, PLEASE REPLY DIRECTLY TO THIS THREAD OR PM ME, please provide Vehicle info... year, make, model, RPO codes and acquired part #'s, current issue/problem



Install/Upgrade OEM Navigation (TNR & INR) units in GMT800 Trucks & SUV’s 03-06 & 07 Classic

First off I used documentation from 3 other forums/sites and piece it together, I must give them credit, however I have slightly edited it from my point of view added more pictures.

I installed a TNR800 NAV (non-lux) and CD Changer/CDX (added CDX wiring harness) in a 2005 GMC Sierra K1500 with Bose (RPO-UQ7) (Removed factory head unit w/6 disc)

INDEX

1. FAQ'S
2. DESCRIPTION ON THE DIFFERENCE IN THE LUX AND NON-LUX VEHICLES
3. DESCRIPTION OF THE NON-LUX AN LUX AMP, AND HOW THEY ARE DIFFERENT
VERY LONG, BUT WILL DEFF EXPLAIN THE DIFFERENCES IF YOUR CURIOUS ON WHAT THE DIFFERENCES ARE AND THINKING ABOUT DOING THE CONVERSION. YOU WILL UNDERSTAND AT THE END.
4. PART NUMBERS ALL PART NUMBERS (TNR & INR non-lux and lux NAV units, antennas, amps, 6 disc slave, CDX wire harness, audio pilot, ambient light sensor & etc.)
5. WHERE TO GET THE PARTS
6. INSTALLATION OF THE TNR800
7. THEFTLOCK STEPS - ALSO THE THEFTLOCK BYPASS
8. VSS WIRE DESCRIPTION
9. VSS INSTALLATION IF NOT ALREADY IN VEHICLE (pictures included, more in links)
10. VSS WIRE BYPASS TO ENTER DESTINATIONS IN WHILE VEHICLES IN MOTION (pictures included)
11. 6 DISC SLAVE INSTALLATION (some pictures included, more in links section)
12. LUX AMP INSTALL
13. WAYS TO DISPLAY DVD OVER NAV SCREEN (pictures included)
14. IPOD (Aftermarket, USA Spec or PAC )
15 ADD-a-AMP TO BOSE (PAC)
16. LINKS (additional amp wiring info, and additional pictures, and TNR800 installation pictures and guide)

I will also make some important notes/pointers throughout the post red, so check them out.

GMC splash screen:

Attachment 144999

Chevrolet splash screen:

Attachment 145000

Nav Mode

Attachment 145001


IMPORTANT

FIRST OFF BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING!!
IF YOU ARE PLANNING ON PUTTING THE LUX NAV UNIT IN YOUR VEHICLE AND DON'T HAVE THE LUX AMP, THEN YOU’LL HAVE TO UPGRADE/CONVERT THE NON-LUX TO LUX AMP!!!

1. FAQ's:


-Verify your RPO codes!!!
-What’s a TNR? TNR is the Touch Screen NAV Unit. An INR is non-touch screen.
-Will my steering wheel controls work as they did before? YES
-Will XM radio work as before with no programming/activation needed? YES
-Will OnStar still work as before? YES
-Will the RSE/factory DVD player work as before? YES
-Will the RSA (rear seat audio) controls work as before? YES
-Can I add the 6-disc Slave Escalade/Denali CD changer to both LUX and NON-Lux NAV units? YES
-Does the NAV unit use the OnStar antenna? NO, it uses a separate GPS antenna
It is extremely critical that you obtain the correct navigation head unit. There are many units that will be identical in appearance but will not function in certain applications. The basic requirements are as follows:
-You must have a double-DIN radio opening. 1999-2002 Trucks and Suv’s have a 1.5 DIN opening. This mod is thus not possible in 1999-2002 trucks.
-Your truck must be equipped with GM's "class 2 data bus". This bus is present on 2003+ Trucks and Suv’s. It is not present in 1999-2002 (even if you modified your interior to accommodate the SIZE of the unit, it would still not be possible to operate it if this “class 2 data bus” is not present).
-Touch-Screen Navigation Head Units from Tahoe’s or Yukon’s (EXCLUDING Denali’s) will work in Silverado’s and Sierras equipped with a BOSE audio system. You have a BOSE audio system only if your door speaker grilles have BOSE logos on them. (RPO UQ7) or NON-LUX
-Touch-Screen Navigation Head Units from Escalades and Yukon Denali’s will work in 2003+ Silverado’s and Sierras, but will additionally require a amplifier sourced from a Denali or Escalade. (RPO Y91 or Y92) or LUX
-I have been told that Navigation head units from a Buick Rendezvous will work with trucks that did NOT come with a Bose system. (RPO - UQ3 or UQ5)
-I know the Trailblazer’s & Envoy’s came with this style of NAV unit if the vehicle was optioned, so it “maybe possible” to add to the Trailblazer’s and Envoy’s or equivalent chassis. (Please note, I do not currently have the documentation for them. So try at your own risk) I have included a pic from a TB

Attachment 145002
Attachment 145003

2. DESCRIPTION ON THE DIFFERENCE IN THE LUX AND NON-LUX VEHICLES


In short, GM makes two different Bose speaker systems for the GMT-800 series vehicles: The Bose “Premium” (non-lux) and the Bose “Luxury” (lux). The non-lux system is what you get with an SLT/LT Silverado/Sierra/Suburban/Yukon/Yukon XL/Tahoe. It utilizes a mid-range speaker in each door, a tweeter in each A-pillar (the tweeters are wired in parallel with the front door speakers, and they are given a capacitor to act as a high pass cross-over) and a 6.5” dual voice-coil subwoofer mounted in the center console. If your door speakers say “Bose” on them, you have this system. SUV’s also have a speaker in each D-pillar as well (these mid-high range d-pillar speakers are wired in parallel with the rear door speakers on the NON-lux systems and on the LUX systems, they are wired into a separate channel on the amplifier, so they can receive different signals than the rear door speakers). Now, Denali’s and Escalade’s have the Bose
“Luxury”, or [RPO code] “Y91” Bose speaker system. The great part is that the speakers themselves and the subwoofer are IDENTICAL to the non-lux system. Both non-lux and lux Bose speakers are referred to as [RPO code] UQ7 on the build sheet and in your glove box sticker. The ONLY lux/non-lux difference is the AMPLIFIER. And what a difference it is! The Luxury amplifier is of MUCH higher quality and also has more RMS wattage output. It deals with sound completely differently than the non-lux amp and processes it in a much cleaner fashion, for MUCH better sound quality. It also devotes much more power to the subwoofer, so with a Lux system, the sub is actually woken up and makes itself heard. Now remember, this is still the same 6.5” sub, so it won’t blow out windows, but I bet it will sound much richer and deeper than you ever thought a 6.5” sub could sound! The Lux amp is also fully computerized and utilizes an onboard DSP (Digital Signal Processor, or Digital Sound Processor; I’ve heard a DSP be called both names) to tweak the sound and also provide different sound field/reverberation/environment settings, such as “Driver”, “Spacious”, “Passenger”, and “Rear”…it is a “Smart” amp. The lux amp also is fully integrated with the vehicle’s Class II data-bus, so functions such as muting and control of the amp are all done via the BCM (body control module… basically the cars main computer) and Class II data. The non-lux amp is jokingly called the “Dumb amp” because it lacks any computer or control of the sound. The only thing it has is a simple passive crossover to prevent high range signals from going to the sub. So basically, that’s the difference between, for example, an Escalade Bose system and a Tahoe Bose system… a 600 dollar amp versus a 170 dollar amp.


3. DESCRIPTION OF THE NON-LUX AN LUX AMP, AND HOW THEY ARE DIFFERENT

Non-Lux Amp is traditional amp that amplifies the audio signals from the head unit.
Lux Amp is a smart amp that uses the class 2 data bus to send audio signals between each other, using a full on-board computer and DSP (digital signal/sound processor) which optimizes the sound much better. And you can program a lux amp for which vehicle it is in and it will alter the sound processing sequences to make the sound perfect for the size cabin! (for example, it is going to have to be programmed differently if it is in a larger cabin Escalade ESV versus a smaller extended cab Sierra Denali (that’s the only truck that gets a lux amp from the factory...if you don’t count the Escalade EXT as a truck

4. PART NUMBERS


TNR RPO CODE Y91 or Y92 LUX UNITS (Bose)

Newest revision LUX TNR-------15800001 if you can use this
Second Revision LUX TNR-------15230099
First Revision LUX TNR---------10377531


TNR RPO CODE UQ7 NON-LUX UNITS (Bose)

Newest revision non-lux TNR-----15800000 if you can use this
second Revision non-lux TNR---10379287
First Revision non-lux TNR-------10377287
Alt. Revision non-lux TNR---------15120706


INR-NON TOUCH SCREEN UNITS (Bose)

Newest Revision LUX INR--------15204335
First Revision LUX INR------------15204334
Newest Revision non-lux INR----15108241


RPO CODE UQ3 or UQ5 TRUCKs (non-Bose) (has internal amplifier)

Non-Bose TNR ----------15811289

***New (both types of head units require their respected "external Bose Amps")
LUX, Non-Nav Radio with 6 CD RPO Y91/Y92
Unknown Vehicle type-----------------15179349

Non-Lux, non-Nav Radio 6 CD RPO UQ7
2005 GMC Sierra CCSB ---------------10359577
2004 Chevy Tahoe --------------------15196055

Lux Amplifiers:

(all are identical in function, they just have different part numbers)

2003-early 2004 Escalade amp--15199992 <--(problematic replaced with part # 15114454)
2005 Escalade amp-----------------15114445
2003-2005 Denali amp-------------15114454
Early 2004 Hummer H2 amp-----15191601 <--(problematic replaced with part # 15114454)
(unknown application) amp-------15112662
(unknown application) amp-------15199884

(I have this amp on my list as a "bad amp" but I’m not sure why-----------15054675
it is confirmed as working with the NAV unit; it’s the amp I’m running in my truck)<-User from the other forum


GPS antenna:

First revision antenna--------------15207447
Latest revision antenna------------15135178 if you can use this


"AUDIOPILOT" NOISE COMPENSATION MICROPHONE:

Noise compensation mic----------25705367
Wiring connector on mic----------12052833
Mating connector for mic----------12085481


DENALI/ESCALADE STYLE CD CHANGER AND ASOC. PARTS:

6-disc slot load CD changer------15055250
Alternate part # CD changer------15122617
Alternate part # CD changer------15207055
CDX changer wiring harness-------15312903

Ambient Light & Temp Sensor
(in case you break it when removing the dash)
There is 2 different dash mounted sensors so double check yours
Ambient Light Sensor (2 pin connector) -------------22724772
Ambient light & Temp sensor (4 pin connector) ----- 25713063

Nav Disc for GMT800 Series

22846887 - version 10.4 (2012) 86271-70V736 (this appears to be the last disc update)
20945770 - version 9.3 (2011) 86271-70V735
20855830 - version 8.3 (2010) 86271-70V734
25956245 - version 5.0 (2009) 86271-70V???
25956245U - version 7.3 (2008) 86271-70V???
25847541 - version ? (2008) 86271-70V732
25847541U - version ? (2006)? 86271-70V851
15906573 - version 5.0 (2006) 86271-70V731
15906573U - version 1.0 (200?) 86271-70V???? (same as version 5.0)
15792651 - version 4.1 (2005) 86271-70V730B
10390370 - version 3.0 (2004) 86271-70V670B
25850927 - version 3.0 (2004) 86271-70V????
15105609 - version 2.0 (2003)? 86271-70V????
10329191 - version 1.0 (2003)? 86271-70V????



5. WHERE TO BUY THE DIFFERENT PARTS...


Ok I got mine off eBay, the only thing I to do is have the dealer reprogram the unit, which I'll give info later on how to do this.

If you want to save a lot of money, you could go for the “INR” (Integrated Navigation Radio… non-touchscreen). These can be had for less. If you don’t want to go thru the hassle of doing the luxury sound upgrade, you can also keep your stock non-lux Bose amplifier and get a different part number NAV unit that is compatible with that.
The two are NOT interchangeable!! They look identical, but are different inside.


The amp I highly recommend buying on eBay. Two reasons... the Lux
amps, when new, need to get an initial programming with a Tech II
diagnostics/program tool. (BTW, the amplifiers, both lux and Premium,
are located in the center console underneath the main storage bin)
This initial programming tells the amp what model/size vehicle it’s in
so it can adjust the DSP (digital signal/sound processor) to make the
sound correct for the size cabin it’s in. For example, an Escalade EXT
cabin is much smaller than an Escalade ESV cabin, so the amp needs to
be adjusted for best sound. This programming can be tricky if the
vehicle that the amp is being programmed into is not a factory LUX
vehicle. Understand? Like the amp will say to itself "hey...somebody
is trying to program me into a Silverado...I’m not meant to go into a
Silverado...something is wrong here..." For this reason, people
sometimes have difficulty in programming the amps. H2 lux amps are
particularly picky, no one knows why. After reprogramming they just
tend to randomly go dead after a little while. Denali and Escalade
amps seem to be OK but then there’s the problem of convincing your
dealer to actually program and do something that’s not in his magic
instruction manual from GM. People have had trouble
convincing their dealers to perform the programming. BUT if
you buy an amp used on eBay for example, it has already been
initialized and programmed so its plug and play (besides rewiring the
connectors...). So my advice is to buy the amp on eBay.


6. FINALLY ONTO THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Please see link below

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...1&d=1505371932

7. THEFTLOCK CLEAR PROCEDURE (IF THE NAV YOU ARE BUYING IS NOT BRAND NEW)


If you purchased a used radio then in most cases the radio will show that it has been theft lock activated, then all you have to do is install it and perform the temporary bypass procedure to insure it works (listed below), You’ll need to take it to the dealership and say you need the theft lock cleared, or if you have a Tech 2 then you may perform the unlock yourself.


TEMPORARY BYPASS INSTRUCTIONS

You can temp bypass this for testing purposes by turning off the truck, then put the key in the ACC position, and pull the
radio fuse for 5 seconds (with the key still in ACC position). Then put the fuse back in and the radio will have full functionality until you
turn the key off or try to start the truck. If you do either of those, the radio will lock up again. Alternatively you can simply unplug the large 24-pin radio connector for 5 seconds instead of pulling the fuse.

Warning!!!
The Dealer maybe reluctant to perform the Theft unlock, I highly recommend you take a copy of the unlock procedure and the Delphi install instructions with you so that you may show the service advisor that it is possible, also leave the instructions in the vehicle for the TECH!


Complete the following procedure, using a scan tool, in order to properly set up communication:

Using a connected Tech2

1. At the Main Menu screen, select: Diagnostics.

2. At the Vehicle Identification screen, select the following options:

Model Year
LD Trk, MPV, Incomplete

3. At the System Selection Menu screen, select: Body

4. At the Vehicle Identification screen, select the following:

Appropriate model
Appropriate Air Conditioning
Navigation Radio

5. At the Body Screen, select: Navigation Radio.

6. At the Radio screen, select: Special Functions.

7. At the Special Functions screen, select: VIN Relearn.

8. At the VIN Relearn screen, the scan tool will display "Do you want to clear radio theft information?"

9. To begin clearing, press the soft touch key on the top right of the scan tool. The scan tool will display "Clearing Radio Theft in Progress."

10. Press EXIT on the scan tool and cycle the ignition.


8. VSS WIRE DESCRIPTION


The GM Navigation system is programmed to disable many features when the vehicle is moving (at a speed greater than 5-10 mph). The disabled features include entering destinations by POI name or Address, and even inputting a destination by memory point. This is moderately infuriating; especially in cases where a passenger is available to safely perform such tasks.
These GM navigation systems use a signal from the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) in combination with a directional gyro as their primary means of determining your position, speed, and direction. The GPS signal is used to repeatedly calibrate the position. The system only disables the abovementioned features when the VSS signal indicates a speed of greater than 5-10mph. Thus, it is possible to install a switch on the VSS wire to temporarily cut this information while the vehicle is in motion such that all capabilities of the navigation system may be used. When the switch is opened, the display will no longer reflect your travel, as the unit will temporarily believe that the vehicle is stopped. Once your destination has been entered, simply close the switch and the display will "jump forward" to your new position and begin routing you to your destination.
The unit is designed to work even if no VSS data is available. When no VSS data has been received for two minutes (but GPS updates indicate the vehicle is moving), the unit will begin using the GPS signal as its primary data source. The display will likely appear a bit more "jumpy" when in this mode of operation. The unit will NOT disable any features when operating in this mode. The only scenario where features are disabled is when it receives a speed greater than 5-10 mph from the VSS.

NOTE, You may or may not have to do this step (wire the VSS wire).
For 2005, I’m 99% sure all of the GMT-800 vehicles already have the
VSS wire in place as standard. My '05 Crew Cab already had
it… If your truck is a 2005 there is no
reason it shouldn’t have it. 2004.5 MAY or may not have it. 2003 and
early 2004 definitely won’t have it; only the Escalades and Denali's had
it back then because the NAV was an option that was exclusive to
those two vehicles... You can check for it
by looking at the radio C2 connector (the smaller one). Check if there
is a DARK GREEN wire going into pin "E". If it’s there, the VSS wire is
already in place and you don’t have to worry about wiring it.
Alternatively, you can temporarily plug in the TNR and start driving
forward...if the "destination programming screen/section" gets grayed
out as you go above 5-10 mph or so, then the VSS wire is working
properly.


9. VSS WIRING INSTRUCTIONS IF YOU DON’T ALREADY HAVE THE WIRE (pictures included in the link)


This step should come before you put your dash back together.
You will have to remove the instrument cluster. Unbolt the 4
bolts that hold it in and pull it forward and unplug it. Find the wire
that goes into the A4 pin of the gauges connector. It will be a green
with white stripe wire. This is the VSS wire. Use a plastic wiretap/Scotch-lock connector and tap into this wire. Run the wire and make
sure it is long enough to reach the "radio C2" connector (the smaller
radio connector). Now take another of those "unused" pins that you cut
off of the amp harness. Splice it onto the end of the "new" VSS wire.
Then, pry off the pin retaining clip from the radio C2 connector. Then
push the pin into the "E" position. (see diagrams for which position
is E...it’s also in tiny letters on the plastic connector) Snap
the retaining clip back on.

Attachment 145004
Attachment 145005
Attachment 145006


10. VSS WIRE BYPASS TO ENTER DESTINATIONS IN WHILE VEHICLES IN MOTION


Ok the down side of having the VSS wire installed is that if your vehicle is in drive, then it prohibits you from entering a new destination until the vehicles in park. This could be a problem say if you are in a bad part of town or something and you want you passenger to enter a new location. This is simply fixed by adding a toggle switch into the VSS wire. I did this to my truck and put the switch in the middle console.

Attachment 145007

11. 6 DISC SLAVE INSTALLATION

Since my vehicle already had the 6 disc changer built into the main head unit (GM did not include a CDX harness in my vehicle), it was necessary to add CDX wiring harness, also the new harness did not use the same color wiring, I was able to create a schematic (I have attached a picture for reference as well) It allows full control & functions from the NAV unit, steering wheel buttons and dimmer.

The slot above the navigation screen will typically be occupied by the navigation map disc. You can remove the navigation map disc and play a CD in it, but in such a configuration all navigation features will be inoperable. Chances are you're not interested using your DVD slot as the CD, so an external CD changer will be necessary.
This part is pretty simple if you follow the wiring diagrams and CDX wiring chart that is included. First of all make sure you have the correct CDX. A 2001-2002 CDX will NOT work!! Back then before the GMT-800’s went to a full Class II data bus, the radios and climate control spoke over the slow old E&C data bus (Entertainment & Comfort). This was much too slow a data rate for the increasing amount of data that traveled between the radios and BCM’s, so in 2003 everything in the whole vehicle switched to the Class II data bus. This was a good move because in 2002 and before, it was such a mish-mosh of data busses that it was a mess. E&C controlled the radios, CDX’s and climate control. UART controlled the SRS Airbag systems; Class II controlled main BCM functions such as locks, windows, and seats, and finally the CAN bus (Controller Area Network, very similar in operation and function to a home Personal Computer LAN) controlled ECM/PCM/TCM (engine
control/powertrain control/tranny control) communication. Now it’s all Class II and a little bit of CAN for the PCM/TCM. Back to the CDX though…you need a 2003 or later CDX that speaks on the Class II data bus.

The only visual difference between the two is that the 2002 and older units had plastic slides on the sides for mounting. The 2003 and up units have metal tabs, or “ears” sticking out of the sides. If you bought one and are unsure if it’s the right one, send me a picture and ill help you out. DON’T try plugging it in until you’re sure…I don’t know if the conflicting data-busses could damage something. Now remove the black plastic console bezel that holds the two cig lighters/12 volt outlets. It just pulls out. Give it a good yank. Look in there and you will see a perfect space for the CDX… except a big lump with a hole in it is in the way. Simply cut it out. I Dremmel’ed it and finished it off with a mini-hack saw and finally,
just grabbed it with a big pair of Channel-locks and broke it out. Just be careful because there are some wires RIGHT behind it. Snake the CDX harness from the radio area down to the console. Then plug in the CDX and bolt it in place with some self-tapping screws. To fit the plastic bezel around it, I cranked up the table saw blade as high as it would go and just cut off the “back” of the pocket on the bezel. Don’t cut if off completely. Leave about 3/16 of an inch to fit flush against the CDX’s own bezel. You’ll figure it out once you start. Keep trimming it back until it fits perfectly. Now just follow the wiring diagram in the picture to splice in the wires at the correct places on the two radio connectors. I soldered them, but you can use Scotch-Lock connectors also. If you DON’T have XM, there won’t be any audio wires on the radio C2 connector to splice into. In that case, just remove the pins from the 9-pin flat CDX harness plug and insert the pins into the appropriate places on the radio C2 connector. The pins are the same size on both connectors so they will plug right in. If you have XM, splice the wires in as normal.


Attachment 145008
Attachment 145009
Attachment 145010
Attachment 145011
Attachment 145012
Attachment 145013
Attachment 145014
Attachment 145015
Attachment 145016

GM TNR800 Slave CD changer/CDX 6 disc (w/dimmer control)
GM Part # 15312903 CDX wiring harness will have the same connector on both ends, one connector will not be used (cut one of the plastic connectors off, make sure to keep the wires as long as possible)
Note: looks like GM made some color changes between the CDX wiring harness throughout the years, so the wire colors may not match and may be different from my picture. No worries just follow the schematic listed below.
Listed below is the schematic I used and verified all CDX functions work with the TNR800 and steering will controls, including the master dimmer control.

CDX harness connector to Head Unit connector C1 24-way
• CDX pin 15 (Orange/Positive battery source), splice & solder to C1 pin “B1”
• CDX pin 14 (Green/Remote Playback Device) Class 2 Serial Data, splice & solder to C1 pin “A1”
• CDX pin 13 (Black/Negative battery source), splice & solder to C1 pin “A12”

CDX harness connector to Head Unit connector C2 12-way
• CDX pin 12 (Tan/Remote playback device common audio signal), splice & solder to C2 pin “K”
• CDX pin 11 (Orange/Remote playback device left audio signal), splice & solder to C2 pin “J”
• CDX pin 10 (Green/Remote playback device right audio signal), splice & solder to C2 pin “H”
• CDX pin 9 (Bare/Drain wire), splice to C2 pin “C”

CDX pins 7 (blue) & 8 (gray) will not be used, either leave them in the CDX connector, or remove them, (I unpinned them and put electrical tape over the unused ends)
Note: on the CDX pin 8 dimmer is not used, but the “dimmer” will work (The dimmer is controlled by the Class 2 serial data wire)
Attachment 145017

Click “LINK” pin-out locations on the connectors if you require more information.

And how it is displayed on the TNR800

Attachment 145018

12. LUX AMP INSTALL

Converting BOSE UQ7 amp to BOSE Y91 / Y92 amp

Convert non-lux to LUX Wiring Chart

the amp setup procedure (because the amps on eBay are used
and won’t have to be programmed...it’s actually best NOT to program the
amp because for some odd reason, the amps can go dead after
programming). The ONLY situation where you should program an amp is if it is un-programmed. You will know if it is un-programmed because audio will only come from the RIGHT FRONT speaker. Otherwise, leave the amp alone!! (As I described before) There are two different docs that describe the same
rewiring procedure...

(first disconnect the battery and remove the old 6-disc
radio before starting the amp install)

Before you put your dash together, Basically you need to take the console apart by removing the lid, inner storage bucket (don’t forget the screws on the bottom under the little rubber mat) and cup holders. Also take the "rear end" off so you can see the amp and
the amp connectors. It’s just a lot of screws and that’s it! Once you get everything apart, unplug the amp and unscrew the two rear bolts. (All the hex-head bolts for the radio and amp are 9/32”) Then, this is the only tricky part... Look carefully at the pictures I
took of mine... The front two amp bolts are under the metal plate...unless you have a perfect little 9/32” wrench or something that can sneak in and unscrew those bolts, you will need to drill two 1/2" holes in the metal plate right above the bolts. Once you drill these holes, you can fit a nut driver or something thru and unbolt the amp. Pull the amp out towards the rear. You will have to bend a sheet metal bracket a bit to squeeze the amp out. Now you can work on the connectors. I did the amp C2 connector (the smaller one with 8 pins) first. First use a small screwdriver to pry off the plastic retaining clips (on both rows of pins). Then look closely at the connector and you will see how the pins are held in place. There is like a little plastic tab that snaps and locks them in. This next part can get frustrating, but be patient!! Use a paper clip, safety pin or something small to insert into the holes on the connector. When you look at it you'll
understand. Push the wire into the connector to relieve pressure on the locking tab and then press the little tab out of the way and then carefully pull the pin and wire out. Don’t pull hard!!! The pins should come out easily. Once all the
pins that need to be moved are out, check the sheet for where they go, and push them into their new places. They will kind of click into place and then once you are all done, put the retaining clips back on the connectors. Then do the larger C1 connector. Work on one row at a time because I think there are some color duplicates between rows. These smaller pins are trickier to release. Remove the retaining clips. Then insert the paper clip or, even better, a small screwdriver, into the OUTER rows of holes to release the pins. (The holes that is closest to the edge of the connector) Once you have confirmed the pins are correct, you have to take the "drain wire" that you removed from the C2 connector and put it into the C1 connector (as shown in the charts). You are going to need to cut off the large pin because it won’t fit into the smaller 24 pin connector. Since there are about 6 wires/pins that you completely cut off because they are not needed (the
ones from the RSA and the amp turn on wire and the radio mute wire) with the lux amp, use one of those pins and splice it onto the end of the drain wire (I used a crimp butt-splice). Now you can stick the drain wire into its new position in the 24 pin C1 connector! Don’t throw away any of the other wires that you cut off either... One IMPORTANT wire that the amp needs that was not there previously is of course the Class II data wire (because the amp is
totally interactive with the head unit and BCM)!! You can use a simple plastic wiretap (also called a Scotch-Lock connector) and tap into the Class II wire that goes to the RSA (rear seat audio...the audio controls for the back passengers). It is the easiest Class II source
to tap into just because it is closest to the amp; theoretically you could use any Class II wire in the truck. It is a light blue wire that
goes into the RSA connector. You may also want to make a second tap on this light blue Class II wire if you intend to add a CD changer as well…because the CDX needs Class II data too. First get some extra 18 or 20 gauge wire (about a foot or so). Then crimp on one of those extra pins to the end of the wire. Put the pin into the correct position in the amp C1 connector (position B10). Then, using the plastic wiretap/Scotch-lock connector, take the other end of that wire and tap into the LIGHT BLUE wire of the RSA. Don’t cut the wire going to the RSA though!! You are basically just making a little 3 way splitter, so Class II data can get to the RSA and to the amp...


13. VIDEO (DVD PLAYS OVER NAV SCREEN)


Option 1:
Ok first of all, there is NO WAY to physically be able to put a DVD disk into the NAV unit and it play.
But there are a few different options available to let you use the screen... I know it may sound weird but I'll explain. There is a device made by PAC (don’t know much about it) and a device called GM LOCKPICK made by coastaletech.com. The lock pick wires into the back of the NAV TNR unit and adds video inputs, for like a rear back up camera. Well if you have a Rear entertainment system (flip down DVD player), then all you have to do is take the DVD player down off the roof and find the blue and purple wire. Get your wire strippers and carefully strip some insulation off the light blue and purple wires. DO NOT cut them; you are just going to be making a splice into them. Now get your video cable and cut one of the yellow plugs off a RCA cable you want to use. Strip the wire so the two wires of the video cable are exposed. Now figure out which wire on the video cable goes to the center "pin" of the plug on the other end. Follow me? Basically you just need to separate the two wires and figure out which goes to the metal "barrel" on the plug and which goes to the center pin. The center pin is "VIDEO +" and the surrounding barrel around the center pin is "VIDEO -".

Now when you have all your wires stripped and ready to connect, splice the "VIDEO +" wire of the video cable into the LIGHT BLUE wire on the RSE assy. Splice the "VIDEO -" wire into the PURPLE wire.

All you'll need is the video source from the flip down to the NAV unit because if you have the vehicle speakers playing the sound from the rear DVD player, then there's no need in the NAV unit to be playing sound to as its already being done. In short, you’re just making 2 screens show the same thing. (I WILL ADD A PICTURE OF THIS IN USE)

Now in order for the LOCKPICK to switch the NAV screen from radio to the movie, it needs a switch. EXAMPLE: If you have a rear camera hooked up, then you would make the switch the reverse light, or something tied into the reverse system so that when you go into reverse the screen automatically cuts to the camera feed. Well with this tapping into the flip down, you could simply just add a switch into the glove box or middle console.

NOTE: When you’re done with the NAV install, you'll notice that there's not an option on the NAV screen to go to that lets you use the vehicles speakers for the rear DVD player anymore. But not to worry, all you have to do is go through your sources on you steering wheel control, and you'll get to it that way (Rear DVD player has to be on for it to pull up)

Option 2
If you don't have the rear DVD player, then you can add an external DVD player (a small one that goes under the seat for example) and use the lock pick to connect it.

14. IPOD
***(when using “PA15-GM” iPod interface it may cause read/write commination errors with HPTuners)
example:
1. Gathering Information Complete
2. Validating License Complete
3. Requesting Access Complete
4. Preparing VCM Failed
5. Reading Entire VCM
6. Validating Inegrity

Boot Loader Download timed out.


Since some most CD Changers are still going for $200+ used on eBay plus the CDX harness, and almost everyone has an IPOD, It may be much easier to just add in aftermarket plug n play kit instead of the CD changer.
USA Spec Seems this unit “PA15-GM” allows you to use non-NAV and NAV systems to add the iPod through the XM1 or the CD changer, which is great for us that decided to install the CDX
USA SPEC
PAC seems there are many more options from this brand, so look through the website to what suits you best.
I know for a fact that some of PAC iPod models caused issues with the CAN system which would cycle the door locks and disable the traction control system “if equipped” when driving 03-06 & 07 Classic GMT800’s & SUV’s so PAC does NOT get my vote!
Pac-Audio

15. ADD-a-AMP to BOSE (not finished and will be updating)

16. LINKS


TNR800 links again
TNR800 INSTALL GUIDE

here are some pictures and the links to the amp installation documents
LINK MORE PICTURES

Special Thanks: Ben Tyler, Andrew Fessler (DURAtotheMAXX), and owner of this siteLINK SOURCE & myself Trevor (Camcamaro1991)

Thanks for taking the time to do this. This is by far the best write-up I've seen on this.

Luckily I already have lux bose w/rse and 6 disc so it should be a very simple install for me.

I did this on my SS. Very nice upgrade.

This is an excellent documentation of what you've done with the upgrade. It should help others who want to take the same approach!

Good Job!!!

Help
 

Ok I looking at upgrading my GMC 2003 yukon xl to touch scree nav and xm ,,I don't have nav now just all in one basic radio, caset, CD player , with 9 speaker Bose, though there seems to be the base speaker in rear of my truck so it looks like, full power memory auto everything just no nav or xm

There is no y92 or 92 code or any code with 91 or 92

there is UQ7

Yet when I give dealer my vin he says I have he lux amp , so I tried another dealer he also said I have

am I missing something

I am confused

I want to buy from third party to save some money I must know if I lux or not

Can some one please help me ?


If this helps I just found the the retail window sticker that was on truck at purchase it states
Bose premium 9 speaker system

Any one ?

RPO UQ7 = "non lux/premium amp" I was a Mercedes Benz master tech for years, I don't trust parts guys period. Still not convinced pull your center console and look at the Bose amp the shape will tell you if it is non lux/premium or lux see the pic

Attachment 125722

Please IM me if you have any further questions.