My '13 GMC came with the Bose system, amp-sub-speakers-tweeter.

I am replacing the head unit with a Factory NAV / DVD / Radio unit and replacing the center console sub box with a new box and an 8" Kicker 44L7S82 woofer, replacing the front door speakers with Digital Design (DD Audio) Component speakers and the rear door speakers with DD Audio Coaxial speakers and tying it all together with a 6 channel signal converter. I will also install a Digital Design S4A, 4 channel Amp;

Series S
Input Sensitivity 0.2V - 8V
Variable High Pass Filter 20 Hz - 500 Hz (200 - 5 kHz) at 24dB/Oct
Variable Low Pass Filter 50 Hz - 500 Hz (500 - 5 kHz) at 24dB/Oct
Clipping Display LED
Tested Voltage 14.4
Tested THD 1%
Model S4A
Cont Power at 4 ohm 100W x 2ch + 200W x 2ch
Cont Power at 2 ohm 150W x 2ch + 300W x 2ch
Damping Factor >550 @ 2 ohm
Cont Power at 1 ohm
Cont Power at 4 ohm Mono
300W x 1ch + 600W x 1ch
Dynamic Power 400W x 1ch + 800W x 1ch
Efficiency thru Output >64%
Dimensions - mm 420L x 232W x 63.5H
Dimensions - inches 16.54L x 9.13W x 2.5H
Signal to Noise 95 dB

It was recommended to run one channel to the drivers doors, channel 2 to the passenger doors, then bridge channel 3 and 4 to run the sub. This is from DD Audio design Team in Oklahoma City, OK. From the spec of the Amp above, how many watts does the amp have?

So let me throw this out there, could I use the Factory Bose Amp (how many whats does it have?) to run the front and/or rear door speakers and then use the DD Amp run the Sub? Or a different configuration all together? What is the opinion of the Audio Kings here?
Thanks

Chad

 

You might can but I know historically they are usually low power and use weird ohm’ing.

I’d bypass it and put my own amp in personally.

 

the factory amps will not give you the sound quality or the power you would want when upgrading (tried in my corvette) the amps seam to be designed for the factory speakers and when you swap them out a lot of sound quality you have in the stock speakers are even lost even though your aftermarket speakers are better

to know what power your system really has you need to go by the RMS rating its the continuous average power (watts) the amp puts out peak and other ratings are just are numbers that the amps can reach in a certain frequency played not continuous

that amp is rated also by voltage say 100w per chanel at 14.4v but your amp wont get that many volts unless you do some serious upgrading on your electrical systems so lets say the amp is only getting 12.5 volts so your not getting the 100w rms stated you getting 70w per chanel so need to look at the output power and the 12.5v number, also you need to run the right gauge wire to support the amp or amp's your using to small of a power wire and the amp might only put out half of what its capable of

you can use chanel 1 & 2 for the front speakers and bridge 3 & 4 to run the sub in mono id skip the 6 channel joby and just run the rear speakers off the stock amp, the rear is just for rear fill any way you want all your staging up front

 

Thanks!
Chad