good source signal to add a sub to factory bose
#1
KickinAssAndTakinNames
Thread Starter
good source signal to add a sub to factory bose
I have a 2017 crew cab with the factory bose system with the crappy center console sub.
I have tapped the the wires between the factory amp and the factory sub, and ran that to a LC2i to get the rcas to my JL amp.
This works very well but I think the the factory head units low and high pass filters are robbing me of the lower and higher frequencies that the factory sub cant handle, but the JL stuff can .
Essentially my added sub is only duplicating the factory sub just louder.
if i got the source signal from a door speaker would it be better or worse?
I have tapped the the wires between the factory amp and the factory sub, and ran that to a LC2i to get the rcas to my JL amp.
This works very well but I think the the factory head units low and high pass filters are robbing me of the lower and higher frequencies that the factory sub cant handle, but the JL stuff can .
Essentially my added sub is only duplicating the factory sub just louder.
if i got the source signal from a door speaker would it be better or worse?
#2
TECH Addict
iTrader: (3)
You have it connected correctly. It's not really about what the sub can/can't handle. It's more about what it should handle in terms of frequency. A sub should not be producing frequencies above 100Hz and ideally not above 80Hz even though they are capable of up to 200Hz. I'm not sure where the Bose equalizer has the low pass cut set for their sub, but I would imagine it's within the preferred range.
I have my upgraded sub connected in the same fashion to my Bose system. Bose speaker line fitted to RCA jacks for high level inputs into a Pioneer amp. I replaced the Bose sub as opposed to adding another sub.
I have my upgraded sub connected in the same fashion to my Bose system. Bose speaker line fitted to RCA jacks for high level inputs into a Pioneer amp. I replaced the Bose sub as opposed to adding another sub.
#3
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (40)
I have a 2017 crew cab with the factory bose system with the crappy center console sub.
I have tapped the the wires between the factory amp and the factory sub, and ran that to a LC2i to get the rcas to my JL amp.
This works very well but I think the the factory head units low and high pass filters are robbing me of the lower and higher frequencies that the factory sub cant handle, but the JL stuff can .
Essentially my added sub is only duplicating the factory sub just louder.
if i got the source signal from a door speaker would it be better or worse?
I have tapped the the wires between the factory amp and the factory sub, and ran that to a LC2i to get the rcas to my JL amp.
This works very well but I think the the factory head units low and high pass filters are robbing me of the lower and higher frequencies that the factory sub cant handle, but the JL stuff can .
Essentially my added sub is only duplicating the factory sub just louder.
if i got the source signal from a door speaker would it be better or worse?
Best I can tell on the new trucks the front door speakers and the sub receive all the lows. I'd try hooking it to the door channel just to see what would happen, but I'd love to know if the radio outputs full spectrum to the amp and if the amp then filters the frequencies, or vice versa. If you found that out that would be a start to answering your question.
You have it connected correctly. It's not really about what the sub can/can't handle. It's more about what it should handle in terms of frequency. A sub should not be producing frequencies above 100Hz and ideally not above 80Hz even though they are capable of up to 200Hz. I'm not sure where the Bose equalizer has the low pass cut set for their sub, but I would imagine it's within the preferred range.
I have my upgraded sub connected in the same fashion to my Bose system. Bose speaker line fitted to RCA jacks for high level inputs into a Pioneer amp. I replaced the Bose sub as opposed to adding another sub.
I have my upgraded sub connected in the same fashion to my Bose system. Bose speaker line fitted to RCA jacks for high level inputs into a Pioneer amp. I replaced the Bose sub as opposed to adding another sub.
#4
TECH Addict
iTrader: (3)
I've experienced the Bose in the 2010+ trucks and it was considerably better than my Cadillac's, surprisingly. If the factory sub is integrated into the console, I'd be taking that apart to see what would fit. OR, I could take the lazy way out and just get one of these for some extra fill. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Kicker-VS...&wl13=&veh=sem
#5
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (40)
No, this particular example is in my Cadillac. The factory Bose sub was hardly audible even in a good spot like the rear deck. I made a new baffle out of some scrap 3/4" MDF, dropped in a beefy 8" I've had since high school, added a 400W pioneer amp as I described, matted the deck as much as possible to eliminate rattles and it was a massive upgrade in bass presence. If the Headunit didn't have so many other functions I would have went full aftermarket.
I've experienced the Bose in the 2010+ trucks and it was considerably better than my Cadillac's, surprisingly. If the factory sub is integrated into the console, I'd be taking that apart to see what would fit. OR, I could take the lazy way out and just get one of these for some extra fill. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Kicker-VS...&wl13=&veh=sem
I've experienced the Bose in the 2010+ trucks and it was considerably better than my Cadillac's, surprisingly. If the factory sub is integrated into the console, I'd be taking that apart to see what would fit. OR, I could take the lazy way out and just get one of these for some extra fill. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Kicker-VS...&wl13=&veh=sem
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moregrip
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09-24-2004 08:42 PM