Yet another turbo build...
#92
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (27)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,275
Likes: 19
From: Dallas
75 lbs worth of piping came in today 
4" is serious stuff. It's crazy to think that I was considering 5 inch, but it cost $200 more. I just don't see it being worthwhile On this set up.

The muffler is only 15.5 inches long. So I really don't see it doing much in terms of sound reduction. But we'll see.


Anyways, this seems like a pretty nice kit for the price. It does cost $500 less than my old Corsa catback. Yeah it's not stainless steel And it doesn't come with nice band Clamps but is still a pretty good value at $287 shipped in my opinion.
Oh and I forgot to add, after some measurements I discovered that I won't even need the front most piece of pipe That connects the downpipe that comes with the kit. So conceivably somebody looking to do a similar set up in the future could just find the Duramax catback kit Instead of the turbo back kit. It seems to be about $40 price difference.

4" is serious stuff. It's crazy to think that I was considering 5 inch, but it cost $200 more. I just don't see it being worthwhile On this set up.

The muffler is only 15.5 inches long. So I really don't see it doing much in terms of sound reduction. But we'll see.


Anyways, this seems like a pretty nice kit for the price. It does cost $500 less than my old Corsa catback. Yeah it's not stainless steel And it doesn't come with nice band Clamps but is still a pretty good value at $287 shipped in my opinion.
Oh and I forgot to add, after some measurements I discovered that I won't even need the front most piece of pipe That connects the downpipe that comes with the kit. So conceivably somebody looking to do a similar set up in the future could just find the Duramax catback kit Instead of the turbo back kit. It seems to be about $40 price difference.
#94
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (27)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,275
Likes: 19
From: Dallas
Nope. Everything should be slip fit, I'll just have to trim some of the pipes to proper length. The only thing I would do differently if I could weld would be to weld in a ball and socket joint at the down pipe connection.
#96
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (27)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,275
Likes: 19
From: Dallas
Got the MBRP exhaust on. It was all basically bolt on. I had to literally cut 1" off one of the pipes and that was it. The tailpipe needs to be trimmed but that's only because of my 6" rear drop. On a stock height truck it would be fine.
I didn't need the turbo back pipe or the 18" extension pipe. These kits clearly are designed for CCLB trucks and the rest are trim to fit.
Unfortunately, it's still loud as ****. Not S.O. approved. I may need to go to the 30" magnaflow.
I didn't need the turbo back pipe or the 18" extension pipe. These kits clearly are designed for CCLB trucks and the rest are trim to fit.
Unfortunately, it's still loud as ****. Not S.O. approved. I may need to go to the 30" magnaflow.
#97
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (27)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,275
Likes: 19
From: Dallas
Took the truck out to do some non-boost tuning, mainly highway. Got on the highway and found myself tipping into boost just a couple psi but noticed blue smoke out my exhaust. That turbo whistle is just addicting. Forgot I was still running the stock PCV setup. I'm thinking that's why I had blue smoke out the exhaust, but it could also be the way I have my oil drain routed. I'm going to fix my PCV and then re-asses.
Here's what I'm doing for my PCV. It's a fully closed PCV system that works like stock but will positively evacuate the crankcase during boost.
I drilled/cut out my driver's side PCV valve so it's just a port now. And I'll be using an LS1 passenger valve cover that has 2 ports compared to mine which only has 1.

Top port goes to intake vacuum port. Bottom 2 ports connect to valve covers. And then a separate line will go from my air filter to the 2nd port on the passenger valve cover for vacuum while under boost.
Here's what I'm doing for my PCV. It's a fully closed PCV system that works like stock but will positively evacuate the crankcase during boost.
I drilled/cut out my driver's side PCV valve so it's just a port now. And I'll be using an LS1 passenger valve cover that has 2 ports compared to mine which only has 1.

Top port goes to intake vacuum port. Bottom 2 ports connect to valve covers. And then a separate line will go from my air filter to the 2nd port on the passenger valve cover for vacuum while under boost.






