Spoolin's attempt to Spool...
Jan 20, 2011 | 09:01 PM
#261
If you want to do the AN route this is a better block IMO than the lingenfelter piece, it has a thermostat in it so your oil can still get over the boiling point to burn off condensation in the oil
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-adapter.html
Or you could keep the factory oil cooler stuff and get your supply from the oil sensor with this adapter(hes a sponsor on tech)
http://www.kurturbanperformance.com/...t-adapter.html
He has also done a ton of research on the good ole #7 problem and came up with this cool doohicky
http://www.kurturbanperformance.com/...or-system.html
FYI Kurt Urban used to be the big wheel at Wheel to Wheel and the main engine builder so he may know a thing or 100
Id use these instead of zip ties to hold your fuel lines
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1882/
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-adapter.html
Or you could keep the factory oil cooler stuff and get your supply from the oil sensor with this adapter(hes a sponsor on tech)
http://www.kurturbanperformance.com/...t-adapter.html
He has also done a ton of research on the good ole #7 problem and came up with this cool doohicky
http://www.kurturbanperformance.com/...or-system.html
FYI Kurt Urban used to be the big wheel at Wheel to Wheel and the main engine builder so he may know a thing or 100
Id use these instead of zip ties to hold your fuel lines
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1882/
Last edited by 1slow01Z71; Jan 20, 2011 at 09:17 PM. Reason: added more info
Jan 20, 2011 | 09:38 PM
#262
Thread Starter
GFYS and STFU
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From: Here and sometimes there too.
If by factory you mean not the HD block, I don't have a "factory" oil cooler line/block. The HD is all that I have
Are you still planning on using an oil cooler? I know Jarrett wasn't running one on his truck and he didn't have any problems to speak of.
If you want to do the AN route this is a better block IMO than the lingenfelter piece, it has a thermostat in it so your oil can still get over the boiling point to burn off condensation in the oil
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-adapter.html
Or you could keep the factory oil cooler stuff and get your supply from the oil sensor with this adapter(hes a sponsor on tech)
http://www.kurturbanperformance.com/...t-adapter.html
He has also done a ton of research on the good ole #7 problem and came up with this cool doohicky
http://www.kurturbanperformance.com/...or-system.html
FYI Kurt Urban used to be the big wheel at Wheel to Wheel and the main engine builder so he may know a thing or 100
Id use these instead of zip ties to hold your fuel lines
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1882/
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-adapter.html
Or you could keep the factory oil cooler stuff and get your supply from the oil sensor with this adapter(hes a sponsor on tech)
http://www.kurturbanperformance.com/...t-adapter.html
He has also done a ton of research on the good ole #7 problem and came up with this cool doohicky
http://www.kurturbanperformance.com/...or-system.html
FYI Kurt Urban used to be the big wheel at Wheel to Wheel and the main engine builder so he may know a thing or 100
Id use these instead of zip ties to hold your fuel lines
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1882/
So I guess right now, the leading candidates are to either tap the HD block and thread in the proper nipple so as to work with the turbo feed line that I already have set-up, or go with the Kurt Urban Oil sender unit. If I do the latter I'm gonna have to do some mods on my fuel system again as I just barely left enough room to clip in the plug into the sender, not much room for a spacer like that but it might be worth it!
Thanks, man!
Jan 20, 2011 | 09:50 PM
#263
These are pretty cool too, if you use the clamps linked to clamp one line to the frame then use these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MFY-20-65219/
to clamp the two lines together, looks pretty trick
If only I had the money I could have a really cool truck
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MFY-20-65219/
to clamp the two lines together, looks pretty trick
If only I had the money I could have a really cool truck
Jan 21, 2011 | 02:19 AM
#265
How do I change this text
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Behind the TIG welder
He has also done a ton of research on the good ole #7 problem and came up with this cool doohicky
http://www.kurturbanperformance.com/...or-system.html
http://www.kurturbanperformance.com/...or-system.html
Check out my oil cooler set-up again, I just flared the factory cooler lines where they would normally enter the radiator, then bent them around the rad. and "T"ed of the cold side for the turbo feed.
Jan 21, 2011 | 05:32 PM
#266
I just drilled straight across from the rearward hole. Drill and tap for an 1/8NPT and I used a 90 degree -4an to 1/8NPT fitting.
Jan 21, 2011 | 05:53 PM
#267
... I'm sure there's a handful of ways to do it but the method that I ended up using was...
-Jusco Paint/Epoxy stripper (Credit due to Lee "SLOXCAB" for coming up with that idea)
-Paint Brush
-Scrapper
-Brillo pad
-Squirt bottle full of 91 Octane gas. ...
...
Note of warning, the Paint/Epoxy remover will eat through anything not metal so don't touch anything else, such as wiring harness, clips, body of the truck, etc... Here's what it did the the plastic container I had initially used, I did not think it would eat it as fast as it did but it melted it in about 15-20 minutes.
...
-Jusco Paint/Epoxy stripper (Credit due to Lee "SLOXCAB" for coming up with that idea)
-Paint Brush
-Scrapper
-Brillo pad
-Squirt bottle full of 91 Octane gas. ...
...Note of warning, the Paint/Epoxy remover will eat through anything not metal so don't touch anything else, such as wiring harness, clips, body of the truck, etc... Here's what it did the the plastic container I had initially used, I did not think it would eat it as fast as it did but it melted it in about 15-20 minutes.
...On driver's side, that j-shaped hook that holds the brake cables. I tried to kept a gradual radius in my cables but not have it hang down too low, asi t bugs the **** outta me. I came up w/. nothing but careful placement, & my brake cable sheathing has worn thru in parts.
In the 3rd pic I quoted, do u (still) have that lil brkt in the extreme right of pic?
I did take it to the track a while back but it wasn't anything great. The motor that I had in there was a low compression motor that I beat to death when it had been previously boosted. Turns out I had detonated one whole bank of that motor to death! ... I had some serious blow-by and melted a few of the forged pistons because of it! ... It still was able to chug itself down the track at 14.0 @ 104mph. It had a lot of top end!
As far as the turbo Q goes: I would assume your referring to the Log Style manifolds that KBRacing and Trick produce. And if that's the case you bring up an old debate of log vs. Tubular. They each have their pro's and con's but the general consensus is that Tubular manifolds out-perform logs. DON'T take that as saying that logs don't work because that simply isn't true. I think Parish, Stock48 and many others have proven that time and again.
There's lots of reasons, some real good some not as good as to why one out-performs the other. And I'm sure some will be quick to argue with some of the points, however...
*Taken from Garrett's web-site*
General design tips for best overall performance on designing Hot Parts (regardless of if it's a log or a tubular set-up) are:
By looking at that list and looking at the design of each type of manifold you can see why most people think Tubular design is a much better and much more efficient design. And it's also why you'll mostly see tubular manifolds on race cars. ...
That bed-liner stuff, is it a roll on application? I'm also wondering if how much that stuff would weigh. Not to sound ridiculous but it's what an eighth of an inch thick and mostly made of rubber no? ...
There's lots of reasons, some real good some not as good as to why one out-performs the other. And I'm sure some will be quick to argue with some of the points, however...
*Taken from Garrett's web-site*
General design tips for best overall performance on designing Hot Parts (regardless of if it's a log or a tubular set-up) are:
- Maximize the radius of the bends that make up the exhaust primaries to maintain pulse energy
- Make the exhaust primaries equal length to balance exhaust reversion across all cylinders
- Avoid rapid area changes to maintain pulse energy to the turbine
- At the collector, introduce flow from all runners at a narrow angle to minimize "turning" of the flow in the collector
- For better boost response, minimize the exhaust volume between the exhaust ports and the turbine inlet
- For best power, tuned primary lengths can be used
By looking at that list and looking at the design of each type of manifold you can see why most people think Tubular design is a much better and much more efficient design. And it's also why you'll mostly see tubular manifolds on race cars. ...
That bed-liner stuff, is it a roll on application? I'm also wondering if how much that stuff would weigh. Not to sound ridiculous but it's what an eighth of an inch thick and mostly made of rubber no? ...
While I know u went w/. POR...
Bed liner coating is just gonnna be rubberized undercoating, roll on or sprayed. Too heavy, esp. @ 1/8"think. Gotta think, paint is apx. 8# /gal.
1 coat of paint of POR will be fine, I think it's not really designed for 2 coats, plus it just adds weight.
What does "As soon as I get it running, I'm gonna find a local ricer shop and say hello...the Odessa Texas way!!" mean?
... First off, here's the motor and tranny...
The transmission is the same FLT 4L80-e Lvl-5 that I've been using the last few years.
So the problem that arose was with the cross-member that's just aft of the rack and pinion. No matter what kind of finagling we could come up with we couldn't get the oil pan over it without having the heads hit the firewall. We even pulled the valve covers but to no avail. So instead of separating the two we just pulled that cross-member out and hung the motor in place right above the motor mounts and re-installed the cross-member before dropping the motor onto the mounts. I was a bit reluctant to do it because pulling that cross-member because of what it supports and what's connected to it but all-in-all it turned out alright. ...
However I'm still not in the clear yet as I'm gonna end up having to pull the oil pan off the motor. ...
I have a replacement windshield wiper tank that has a meth pump in it and will install that instead. ...
The transmission is the same FLT 4L80-e Lvl-5 that I've been using the last few years.
So the problem that arose was with the cross-member that's just aft of the rack and pinion. No matter what kind of finagling we could come up with we couldn't get the oil pan over it without having the heads hit the firewall. We even pulled the valve covers but to no avail. So instead of separating the two we just pulled that cross-member out and hung the motor in place right above the motor mounts and re-installed the cross-member before dropping the motor onto the mounts. I was a bit reluctant to do it because pulling that cross-member because of what it supports and what's connected to it but all-in-all it turned out alright. ...
However I'm still not in the clear yet as I'm gonna end up having to pull the oil pan off the motor. ...
I have a replacement windshield wiper tank that has a meth pump in it and will install that instead. ...
What's w/. the replacemt. windshield wiper tank w/. meth tank in it. Explain please.
-8 AN feed, Y-split and feed the back of the rails. Gonna try to mount the FPR up front right next to the TB so the front of the rails can feed right into it and then go with a -6 AN return. Not sure if I have room for the FPR up there with some of the hot parts, coolant cross-over tubes and what not but I don't want a spider's web of fuel lines like I had last time.
I could/can, but for the PVC system that I have set-up won't work as well with stock valve covers. The ones I have have a -8 Bung welded on them, and I have some lines that will run from the valve covers to an electric vane pump.
I could/can, but for the PVC system that I have set-up won't work as well with stock valve covers. The ones I have have a -8 Bung welded on them, and I have some lines that will run from the valve covers to an electric vane pump.
Unlike jared91, I read thru 27 pgs., & didn't change my pants once. Now I'm up to speed after being gone since Dec. 11; and I started w/. your thread.
I'll try to minimize my multi-quotes. Nice what I've seen so far. 
Jan 21, 2011 | 06:02 PM
#268
Oh ya, Adel clamps are rubber isolated for lines & such. No, they're not cheap, but it'll be right. Also, look at those big fuel pump rubber isolated hangers for your pump / or was it your filter. Some AN wrenches -4 thru -12 would help keep your fittings pretty. Oh ya, not to be critical. I don't care if u have a 
in your engine bay, but when u show pic from pass. side, near valve covers, my eyes go right to that nasty paint scratched dipstick tube. Hit it w/. some black. That was buggin me, sorry; I know my bay wins no prize, but I'm not in sunny CA either. 
in your engine bay, but when u show pic from pass. side, near valve covers, my eyes go right to that nasty paint scratched dipstick tube. Hit it w/. some black. That was buggin me, sorry; I know my bay wins no prize, but I'm not in sunny CA either.
Jan 21, 2011 | 08:02 PM
#269
Jan 22, 2011 | 04:41 AM
#270
Thread Starter
GFYS and STFU
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 13,870
Likes: 4
From: Here and sometimes there too.
Oh ya, not to be critical. I don't care if u have a in your engine bay, but when u show pic from pass. side, near valve covers, my eyes go right to that nasty paint scratched dipstick tube. Hit it w/. some black. That was buggin me, sorry; I know my bay wins no prize, but I'm not in sunny CA either.
in your engine bay, but when u show pic from pass. side, near valve covers, my eyes go right to that nasty paint scratched dipstick tube. Hit it w/. some black. That was buggin me, sorry; I know my bay wins no prize, but I'm not in sunny CA either.