Oh yeah, that's right. There's alot of stuff that I've forgotten that you told me!
I like what JoeyDC5 did actually. I was thinking about relocating my battery to the rear of the truck anyways so this might be a good incentive to do that!

 

Truck looks good, and great work so far cant wait to see it run. And you need to sell me your wheels thats just what i need.

 

trucks gunna move!! but still no match for the TDI

 

where are the updates!!!!

 

I'll probably be selling them early next year actually. Right now it's not a priority, but once I get this thing up and running and start dialing it in I'm gonna switch to some different wheels. So start saving your pennies!!

Nothing's a match for that little piece of awesomeness!!! It has a name btw...its CASPER!!
I actually got my first 50+ mpg tank last week.

I got your update right here buddy!!! But not the one your looking for! (not yet at least)

So I got about 80% of the frame stripped and 10% more to go. There are a few spots that I'm not gonna touch as mentioned before. I hope to have it all done by tomorrow morning and I can start painting the frame and the gas tank.

Here's what the engine bay looks like now...





There's alot of shadows in those pictures but every cross-member and frame rail is stripped with the exception of the top of the drivers side frame rail where the hard-lines for the brakes are and the power steering stuff is.
Anyone have any suggestions for what kind of paint will hold up well to rock's and debris that might cause chipping? I know that's why wax is a better medium, because of it's resistance to chipping and what not but is there a certain paint people recommend for the frame? Or will anything do?
I'm gonna put a couple coats of Rustoleum oil based paint on the firewall and if nobody has any better suggestions I'm gonna use that on the frame as well.


Here's a sneak peak at the fuel tank!!
All I need to do is paint it and the frame and then I can drop it in. (Or should I leave it unpainted?)

 

POR15 is what most people use for the frame. Id paint the tank too. Who made it?

 

holy crazy ball joint angle batman!

flip those dam uppers already!

As far as the project, looks ****** nuts man. Excuse my ignorance but why set it up like that? Why not just do it normal with turbo running off one side and then you just cross at the bottom like the factory y-pipe does?

 

Ball joint looks worse because there is no weight on it. My opinion would be a bedliner type of material or the textured type of material similar to what GM used to put into the trunks of cars. My frame and notch where the work was done bagging mine is shot in a single stage and hasn't survived very well.

 

Cool, I'll look into into the POR15.

Ball joints look like that because the suspension is completely unloaded, since the front end is under jack-stands.

As far as the turbo Q goes: I would assume your referring to the Log Style manifolds that KBRacing and Trick produce. And if that's the case you bring up an old debate of log vs. Tubular. They each have their pro's and con's but the general consensus is that Tubular manifolds out-perform logs. DON'T take that as saying that logs don't work because that simply isn't true. I think Parish, Stock48 and many others have proven that time and again.
There's lots of reasons, some real good some not as good as to why one out-performs the other. And I'm sure some will be quick to argue with some of the points, however...

*Taken from Garrett's web-site*
General design tips for best overall performance on designing Hot Parts (regardless of if it's a log or a tubular set-up) are:

• Maximize the radius of the bends that make up the exhaust primaries to maintain pulse energy
• Make the exhaust primaries equal length to balance exhaust reversion across all cylinders
• Avoid rapid area changes to maintain pulse energy to the turbine
• At the collector, introduce flow from all runners at a narrow angle to minimize "turning" of the flow in the collector
• For better boost response, minimize the exhaust volume between the exhaust ports and the turbine inlet
• For best power, tuned primary lengths can be used

By looking at that list and looking at the design of each type of manifold you can see why most people think Tubular design is a much better and much more efficient design. And it's also why you'll mostly see tubular manifolds on race cars. If you wanna see crazy designs look up the turbo days of F-1 before they were banned.


That bed-liner stuff, is it a roll on application? I'm also wondering if how much that stuff would weigh. Not to sound ridiculous but it's what an eighth of an inch thick and mostly made of rubber no? I'll look into it, it's definitely a good idea.

 

Ruberised products like that weigh to much.... Just use an epoxy based product and you will be fine. Like that POR15 product.
PPG's DP90 Epoxy Primer seems to bite into the metal very well... How ever is a non sandable product. Meaning if you want to change the apearance or touch it up you can not sand it. It gums up the sand paper. The also have a satin black that you could apply over it. Its something they designed for muscle cars...