Ok guys I'm "getting close" lol. I still need to run my vacuum lines for bov, wg, fpr, bap, and boost controller. And I still need to tighten down all the silicone couplers. I had the intercooler in and out a few times when I was making the trans cooler lines to make sure everything had enough slack / clearance etc.

Once this thing starts, drives, and doesn't blow up on the lightest spring, I plan to takes a few more pics of everything This build isn't exactly unique, but each one is kinda unique in their own way. The only thing I am not fully stoked on is the oil cooler brackets. I just bent some stainless temporarily just so I could run the lines from the thermostat adapter. I plan to bend/ weld something proper shortly.

I tried to use an acceptable amount of DEI heat sleeve, DEI fire sleeve, and OEM type "techflex" sleeve without going over the top. I also like using heat shrink wrap and weathertek OE-type connectors wherever I can lol. However I also don't like overdoing the reflective sleeve so that it dominates the whole engine bay. I am still waiting on a 36" piece of DEI fire sleeve (black silicone looking) so I can cut it in half and slide it over the two heater hoses above the downpipe. I plan to list id's, lengths, and type of sleeve that I used in one of my next posts. I just need to go over my receipts to make sure the info is correct.

I may not have mentioned it in previous posts, but my fuel system to some will sound insufficient. A single Walbro 450, custom -8AN bulkhead, Fuelab inline filter, -8AN ptfe feed, -6AN ptfe return, Holley rails, ID1000 injectors, and a Kenne Bell 20V "competition" boost-a-pump which runs off a hobbs switch. My tuner has tuned a number of cars past 700whp on E85 using this setup, and I want to try it. If it proves insufficient, I will add the 2nd Walbro 450 and eliminate the BAP. I plumbed the flex fuel sensor into the return line, so I hope to be able to run 91 or E85 and if for some reason it turns out that I need to load a separate tune for gasoline vs E85, at least I'll have another cool looking gauge in the cabin to monitor ethanol content lol.

Note, the motor is not a 6.0. I haven't been able to find my 5.3 cover so I threw this one on to cover how dusty the intake is.

 

Well, she runs! Started right up on the base tune. Idle's good at 750rpm. Pushrod length seems good, no strange clackety clack or tapping. Oil pressure strong at 60psi, definitely higher than it was on the stock oil pump. Had a face palm moment. Forgot to tighten the fittings for the trans cooler lines. Puked a couple qts on the floor. I tightened the fittings and filled it back up, seems fine now. Thank god for kitty litter

I have a few things I need to button up before I drive it, then going to put put around for a few days and make an appt with the dyno when he has time.

And it's time for a really shitty cell phone video...

 

Congrats on the first start! Sounds good

 

Nice job! I've been watching this thread like a hawk waiting to see videos of it.

 

Its an amazing feeling to hear it run after so long, isnt it?? Nice job!

 

Ok guys been driving it for a few days now and it's given me the opportunity to sort through some bugs. Truck feels absolutely bonkers on 3psi compared to a stock motor with a flowmaster.

I've realized that I want to lift this truck back up a couple inches all the way around and get some 17" or 18" lightweight Centerlines. I am absolutely not a 20" wheel guy. I'm running Atomic's coilovers and I've cranked the preload all the way to the max in the front but it doesn't ride good like that (very bouncy like a lowrider) so I'm gonna reinstall the stock spindles and rear hangers (not that fun). I would say that the suspension is still my biggest gripe with this truck. I'm thinking Atomic's coilovers are not meant to be run with any real preload on them, maybe a turn or two on the shock collar, and then adjust the shock stiffness from there? Would love everyone's input on this one. The coilovers do feel better than the torsion bar + Belltech shock combo I had on previously. The truck feels more controlled but still not as confident as I'd hoped. I'm hoping when I reinstall the stock spindles and reduce preload then fiddle with shock stiffness/looseness that things will improve.

I had a drip for my oil temp bung that I welded on near the bottom of the sump. I should have water tested the oil pan before installation. That is my fault. I'm not ashamed to admit that I drained the oil, cleaned the area up with my angle grinder, and JB welded the entire area. Problem fixed and beats dropping the diff, the pan, etc. The turbo drain fitting that I welded is leak free so that's good.

I need to try some slightly shorter 7.325 pushrods or swap out the BTR springs for something with less seat pressure. The valvetrain is a tad noisy since I've put some more miles on it and now that I can hear it better since the resonator is on. For the BTR Stage 1 cam I really don't think I need the BTR platinums. Anyone have a spring recommendation for me? With 7.350 pushrods I am putting about .100" preload on the LS7 lifters when cold. Not sure what that expands to when hot, but probably gets close to the max of .120"

Need to have an exhaust built. Hope to do that tomorrow. Still running around open downpipe. I clamped on a 3" Vibrant resonator which helped maybe a smidge, but I can't sit in any kind of traffic as it is. Gotta take the back roads or freeway everywhere lol. Also not lying when I say I wear ear plugs wherever I go. It dawned on me that with the stiff suspension, and the converter, and all the other non street friendly things about this truck that I want the exhaust as quiet as possible. I don't care if I choke it with a 3" exhaust, I'll be running a 3" diameter, 36" long Magnaflow and 3" tailpipe all the out the back. No 4" for me.

The shift kitted 80e and Circle D feel real good! Shifts hard and crisp and I'm sure when I actually get the truck tuned that the converter will feel even better. I obviously haven't put any real power through this trans yet, but trans temps have not gone over 150. I am getting a leak out of the bulkhead connector but I know for a fact it's because I went to the junkyard and got a 95 and earlier dipstick and put more fluid in it than when I had the 2005 dipstick in it. Not sure what I plan to do about it... maybe let the excess drip out until it's at a level that it likes, otherwise I'll have to drop the valve body and put a new harness in that will have a new bulkhead connector.

I haven't seen IAT rise significantly over ambient. Is this normal? Maybe it's because I haven't put any real boost into it or maybe my IAT sensor isn't reading right? Highest I've seen is in the high 80s on the Aeroforce gauge. Ambient has been low 80s here.

Anyone have any issues with the Trick downpipe hitting the frame under load? I tried several times to loosen the exhaust housing clamp, put wood between the dp and frame, reposition, retighten, but everytime I tighten the clamp the downpipe ends up at the same spot. The outlet of the downpipe is also curved upwards slightly towards the floorpan which will complicate making the exhaust. I'm wondering if maybe I got a dp that wasn't quite bent correctly?



Anyways, here's the truck as it sits yesterday. Getting some gas for my brother's truck. Haven't washed it in 6 months. I need take a bunch of better pics when the lighting is better and I can get it up on the lift.

 

All in all, pretty standard issues with a turbo setup. Nothing unexpected really.

That o2 sensor location on the downpipe looks terrible to me. If you're running stock motor mounts, the engine moves quite a bit under load and will end up banging the pipes on the frame. Solid motor mounts will be the solution.

 

No way I'll be running solid motor mounts... It's not only the o2 sensor placement that's a problem. There's only a c*nt hair of clearance between the pipe and the frame, maybe 1/4". There's so much room between the bellhousing and the downpipe so it's frustrating. I know the motor mounts are good as I had them out when I did all this. I might have to pull the dp and take it to a muffler shop so they can tweak it.

 

You are right in that the preload on the coilovers are not meant to be adjusted for height. The idea is to preload the shock what is needed to get the shock in the middle of its travel. If you are cranking the springs to add height, then it sounds like you need a longer shock. The ride can be tuned both with spring rate and with the shock settings. If its bouncy, you need to increase the shock settings. If its too low for wanting to raise it back up you need to remeasure between the lower shock bolt and the top of the frame shock mount and I can help recommend a stiffer and taller combo.

The engine moves quite a bit under load with the factory motor mounts, even if they are fine. This is by design. The downpipe probably moves a good inch or two.

3psi isnt anything to see any temp increase with.

 

Sounds like you've had some horrible experiences with solid mounts...

I have welded up mounts in my truck and it feels the same as stock.