Hard to say, I've only ever driven it around with a bone stock motor so I can't tell too much difference between it and the G80. The G80 had 145k on it and I did feel the odd clunk here and there. I'm sure the Trutrac will be much appreciated when I get this thing going with some more power...

 

The ptfe hose needs to be carbon impregnated for use with fuel...without it the static charge cab build up and burn holes in the line.

If the inner liver is black it's carbon impregnated.

 

Interesting, I've used this same Phenix PTFE hose on previous builds without issue. I have so much leftover PTFE from previous projects, it's all different kinds, some Fragola, some Phenix. Truth be told I used Fragola hose from tank to rail, and was using Phenix hose to mock up the crossover. Haven't tightened down yet. I'll use the black lined Fragola, thanks for the info.

 

Ok guys getting pretty close. Like a f**kin idiot I decided to replace my perfectly fine 145k motor mounts with a set of NNBS motor mounts off my brother's LC9 that we put in his Colorado (he needed custom). In the process, I broke a motor mount bolt clean off. I would bet that I'd be fine, but that's not how I roll. Went to the local Pick Your Part and luckily they had an 03 extended cab and the motor was already gone, but the bracket was still there . Kinda a pita to replace that bracket lol.

Anyways, both manifolds installed, radiator, fans, and hoses installed, and I couldn't resist test fitting the turbo. Where is everyone clocking their turbos? As you can see I used a fuel cell bulkhead fitting on the elbow going into the turbo and I plan to use a push-lock fitting and some -6 hose for my passenger side valve cover vent. Will update more this week

 

Also I did take a moment to "port match" the driver's side manifold as it was very clear that even with stock 862 heads, the manifold posed a restriction (although likely very small). Only took me 20 minutes start to finish with my carbide bit.

Before:





After:

 

Ok guys, making more progress. I will admit I'm meticulous, and don't like doing things twice. So I take extra care to make sure the end result is a success, and not a basket of bugs that takes me 6 months to sort out, possible leading to me selling the truck out of frustration lol. This being my first FI build things are going kinda slow. I got the crossover in and downpipe mocked up for the wastegate. Boy the dp sure is close to the a/c hoses! I bent them carefully by hand, but after I took this picture I wrapped the wastegate pipe on the downpipe for extra insurance. The crossover is a bit crooked, but since it only goes in 1 way I assume that's just a manufacturing tolerance.









I wanted to use a NNBS starter I had leftover from my brother's build. I don't remember there being this much space between the inspection cover and the start. Can someone confirm this is normal? I plan to turn the motor over with the coil packs disconnected to circulate some oil through the motor but I figured I would ask. My stock starter didn't sound too fresh and I'd rather not buy another one if this one will work.

2002 LQ9 starter top, NNBS (LC9 5.3L) starter below:









I'm pretty happy with the way the turbo drain turned out. I used a few inches of DEI silicone 2000* heat wrap on it. The hose is at a decline most of the way and just flattens out as it runs along the pan. I don't see this as a problem considering the drain point is higher than the oil level in the pan. I wanted to make sure the drain hose was not kinked and that the oil had a smooth path of travel.



I also treated myself to a new battery tray. The pick n pull wanted $5 for a slightly bent tray from the only wrecked GMT800 truck in the yard, eBay wanted $18 shipped for a new GM tray so I figured what the hell. The previous owner must have had a leaky battery in the truck for a while. Disgusting.





I got the TR6 plugs, coil packs, and wires in. Not sure how I feel about the MSD wires that come with the Trick kit, with the manifold wrapped it looks like stock plug wires would work ok? The MSD's don't click into the coil packs with as much confidence as the OE's do. Are they necessary?

Also, what is everyone doing to support their coolant tank? I've seen guys modify the air box bracket to leave just a small section, or other guys using a piece of hardware store bar stock to attach it to the fender apron. Just wondering what the cleanest way of doing it is.



I still need to run the oil cooler lines, trans cooler lines, plumb the intercoler, and route the pressure feed for the turbo. Where is everyone routing pressure line? Over the intake, around the back, front?? I almost feel like I could use a 45 off the turbo so it doesn't stick out so damn much.

I'll chip away at the rest of things this week... slowly but surely.

 

Starter should be fine, just smaller bodied.... the arnature shoukd line up i dont remember them changing the flexplate or spacing from the nbs to nnbs, iirc!!!

 

I have the stock body panel on the passenger side where the coolant over flow tank sits.

Youve done a great job so far with this. I would also recommend using plug wire heat protectors. They are cheap and work.

 

Badass build man. I love the ethanol guage in the stock cluster.

 

Great job so far! You definitely want to put some sort of protection on the wires, or they will certainly melt.