The 18's look good on your truck. I think 18's are a good compromise between looks and ride quality

 

Looks exciting. About to start my own trick install, can't wait for your dyno results!

 

Ok guys thought I would throw the truck on the scales tonight just for *****. 1/2 tank, spare tire and hitch. The only weight savings on this truck are the diff cover and the coilovers. Added weight are the turbo, Cal-Tracs, 80e. Truck has stock 4wd wheels and 265/70/17 Goodyears. 4835lbs without me in it. Is this heavy or about average?

 

Sounds about average, mine was close to that.

 

Alright guys I had made a diagnostic post in the FI section but I'll summarize here. Went to the dyno yesterday and had some issues. Made 456/477 on 9lbs but had ignition problems and truck was breaking up all over the place. Tuner said I need to resolve that before anything. I went straight home and swapped plugs, coil packs, and wires from my vette and the truck feels night and day. Anyone who has been around motors for even a little bit knows when a car is running right and when it's not, and the new plugs/coils/wires fixed whatever issue I had. I turned up the boost controller and I'm seeing 12psi with steady afr's of 11.5-11.6:1. The truck definitely feels strong but I have a feeling the tuner was completely conservative with timing given the miss on the dyno. I'll reschedule with him in a couple weeks.

Another issue we ran into which was specific to my application. The Kenne Bell bap kept blowing the 30amp fuse I put in the racetronix hotwire fuse holder. 40amp mini fuses aren't readily available at the parts store so I ended up cutting off the fuse holder and using spade terminals on a conventional size 40amp fuse. Zero problems since. Once I fixed the ignition and turned up the boost controller, fuel pressure is still rock solid at 12psi and afr's don't waiver, but given the conservative tune I can't definitively say "Walbro 450 + 20v BAP + Hotwire kit w/ 40 amp fuse + 8an/6an return system running e85 will support xxx whp." The tuner says he regularly uses the 20v "competition" bap and Walbro 450 on forced induction C6z's with e85 so I wanted to try it. So far so good I should have come prepared with a 40amp fuse for the hw kit (tuner says he always upgrades the hw kit with a 40amp but didn't have any at the shop). Interestingly the fuse for the BAP itself is a 40 amp straight out of the box from Kenne Bell. I think this bap/Walbro 450 combo is a good alternative to dual pumps and I plan to prove that or find out the hard way that it's not lol.

The good news from all this is I found two different issues and I'm more invigorated than ever to clean up the fuse wiring and head back to the dyno to try 15lbs and see what kinda power it makes or what it breaks next.

The 05 8.1L Suburban 4l85e from Craigslist is still kicking, knock on wood, who knows for how long lol. I've been beating on it since fixing the ignition and temps climb to the low 190s in 90 degree weather. I think this is pretty normal but if and when I do a trans I'll ask you guys what else I can do besides a Tru cool to keep the fluid cooler. Maybe -8 lines to the cooler? Deep pan? Internal mods?

In conclusion I'm super stoked to be safely running on 100% e85 and I also have a flex fuel tune to load if I want, al though tuner reminded me that the 05 pcm takes 10-15 mins to accurately read ethanol content so I need to stay out of boost for a little while after loading the flex tune. I have e85 in town so I'll be running that most of the time.

 

I bet if you look at some of your old wires some are burned and were shorting. Also plug gap is important especially when using alcohol fuels. Any misfire problem ive had has been plugs or wires.

 

For the trans temps, just do a trucool. You'd be surprised how much that will help. I have an 80e, 3600 stall, trucool, -6AN lines, drive in temps up to 95 or so and don't think that ive seen above 160 degree temps.

Based on prior research I've done on the trans lines, I'm quite certain you want to stick with -6AN lines. The reason (if I remember correctly) is that the pump can only flow a certain amount of volume - if you increase the hose diameter the fluid is going to flow slower through the entire system which means fluid will be sitting longer in the trans and getting hotter than if you were to stick with -6AN lines and have the fluid moving quicker through the system. Just what ive read (and someone correct me if I'm wrong) but my -6AN lines and trucool are working great!

Good build too!

 

-6 lines and trucool without radiator involvement. That will keep your 80e very happy. Driving around town temps never go over 145. Hot lapping it at the track I've touched upper 170s.

 

^^ I second the no radiator involvement so long as you're climate is fairly warm. Fastjweb has an 80e with -6an lines with radiator bypassed, 3500 stall and trucool. We were out cruising when it was 28 degrees out and the trans wasn't getting hot enough to shift into overdrive/lock the converter. On the same setup, my 80e was warm enough to function properly. Just a consideration depending on how cold of weather you'll be driving in.

 

Thanks guys. I do have a Tru cool and the radiator is bypassed. 6an lines to and from. Lycoming are you still stock 80e or built?

Atomic, I can't say for sure if it was plugs or wires or coils. Plugs were near new Denso IT24 and wires were MSD that came with Trick kit. I never liked the MSD wires and will not use them again. They are too short and don't "snap" confidently onto either the plugs or coil packs. MSD wires came with the Trick kit and I do understand why. The MSD boots that slide onto the plugs are lower profile so they won't touch the edges of the manifold. However, stock plug wires with heat boots and the metal covers removed serve the same purpose and are long enough to snap into place easily. The MSD wires being a bit too short combined with me having them on and off a million times I believe caused the snap terminals to become loose? That or they're just bunk wires, who knows. I was jonesing to get the truck back together so I didn't bother resistance checking them.

My combo being 10.5:1 I'm tempted to put BR7's in but the truck runs really good right now so I might leave the TR6's in. A plug change is not feasible at the dyno since I need to pull the wheels off to do things efficiently.