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LQ4 out 5.3 Turbo In (Trials and Tribulations)

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Old Oct 31, 2018 | 09:18 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by stroker87
dont feel bad i got sucked about 17 years ago, ran down to Atlanta from chicago for a 87 silverado rust free truck nice looking was told it has a 383 4 bolt mains built trans with all the goodies short story he lied like you found out the hard way, i built that drive train front to back then the engine went for a 2nd time built it stronger then the trans blew built it again after owning it for 11 years and putting only 200 miles on it in the last two of owning it (something always went wrong) i gave up and sold it! funny thing is truck never gave the next owner a problem lol i guess i finally worked out the bugs and lost my A$$ off but i was honest with him and told him the hole story i guess thats why it tool 11 months to sell lol

it was all my fault i had a feeling when i met the guy he wasnt being honest but living in chicago and seeing a rust free truck in front of me at the time i just paid him and put it on the trailer

Wow that is a crazy story. Yeah looking at used cars for some friends I don't trust anyone or anything they say anymore. Little bit of an update I got the old flex plate off and calling the engine builder on what kind of spacer I'm going to need to get the torque converter back on.
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Old Oct 31, 2018 | 09:42 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by JonToski187
Little bit of an update I got the old flex plate off and calling the engine builder on what kind of spacer I'm going to need to get the torque converter back on.
i think your going to need a different flex plate not just a spacer, i remember when we swapped my sons truck there was a couple different ones and we had to get the right one for his setup

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Old Oct 31, 2018 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by stroker87
i think your going to need a different flex plate not just a spacer, i remember when we swapped my sons truck there was a couple different ones and we had to get the right one for his setup

Yes he said if my old setup had a spacer I can take it off the crank I think he said I put it on mine. If not he said that I have to buy a new flex plate with one attached because he doesn't think they sell them separate that he has seen. I'll upload some pictures and maybe guys on here or you can help me out because I am clueless.
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Old Oct 31, 2018 | 09:51 AM
  #44  
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Flex Plate Bolts

Old Crank

Old Crank Again

New Crank

New Crank 2

Front of Flex Plate

Back of Flex Plate


To me the cranks looks like the same size to me and my untrained eye. Any thoughts guys?
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Old Oct 31, 2018 | 12:10 PM
  #45  
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did some searching and came up with this! it might help you out

click me
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Old Oct 31, 2018 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by stroker87
did some searching and came up with this! it might help you out

click me
That was a good read and helped out a ton. So if you have a 1999-2000 crank you don't need a spacer. But if you want to put in a 2001 or newer engine in than you need a spacer like me. I ordered a FRA-450 flex plate that comes with a spacer. I hope this helps someone out in the future.
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Old Nov 12, 2018 | 12:47 PM
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The new flex plate with the spacer went in and also replaced the transmission mount while I was down there. I put on my TBSS intake with a 92mm throttle body. I started to put in the Hurron Speed Kit. The pipe going from the intercooler to the throttle body is hitting my E-Fans hopefully when I tighten things up it won't. I have to modify a few things and make some custom mounts for the power steering rad, throttle body cables, fuel rails, intercooler bracket, hood latch/radiator bracket, and reroute my heater hoses. Also I deleted the AC I never used it in any of my cars and as stated before something was already broken on it. Western WA doesn't really get too hot.


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Old Dec 18, 2018 | 10:11 AM
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I flipped the intercooler 180 degrees now the pipe isn't hitting my e-fans. I'm starting to button everything up and route everything and manage all the hoses and cables.
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Old Dec 18, 2018 | 10:14 AM
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First start up on the new build
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Old Dec 18, 2018 | 10:24 AM
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I don't know if I should post this here but when I got the TBSS and Holley Sniper fuel rails I couldn't find a guide on how people were making these "custom" mounts. With the Holley LS style rails with a TBSS and LS1 injectors the mounting holes were almost right on top of each other and needed a creative mounting solution. So I will post how I did mine. The cost was about $10

First I ran 4 M6X25 2" long 10mm bolts from underneath the intake through the stock mounting holes to make "studs"

Then I put the thinnest U channel aluminum Lowes had with holes for the studs. You can also use a "box" style channel.


Then I cut holes for the Holley Sniper rails through the U channel. I used stock bolts I had left over but the same spec bolt earlier can work here.

After putting the nut on the end of the horizontal bolt I made "washers" for the vertical studs to hold down the rail. This setup was more solid then the OEM mounts.

Last edited by RA62025; Oct 10, 2019 at 03:31 PM.
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