Naw you cant sell it. Yours is one of my favorite builds on this site.

Also if you dont own a truck you get your mod status revoked.

 

I changed the coolant steam things to the trickflow setup so I wont have that little distro box on top of the intake anymore. Much more discrete this way


Notice the EGT probe, and super short plug wires along with extended coil pack connector


dem solderz...


All back together!



and the logs look good! Started first try and everything sounded normal and nothing I need to fix besides the "low coolant" light is on because I cut the harness off. Whoever said 9:1 compression is too low is out of their mind, I cant tell a difference really.

Getting ready for a track day on saturday against some cocky fox bodys, should be fun!

 

Should take 25psi quite well now You going to the 1/8 mile this weekend?

 

Yea they are doing a "legal street race" type setup...actually racing on the track backwards. Start at the end of the shutdown area and race towards the tree. Should be a perfect grudge setup for the truck. I plan on picking up some C16 before I go down and mixing that in with it.

As a side note, I bought some of the alper motorsports ebay header studs and like them way better than the ARPs. The allen bolt is a lot bigger and less likely to strip out. Also the nut is a lot larger and 6 point 13mm instead of 12 point 10mm like the arp. They are also 1/5th the cost, go figure.

Also my electrical system seems to work much better now. 0 gauge straight from battery to back of the alternator. 4ga from the battery to a stud in the fuse box that all the extra crap gets power from. 4ga ground from the battery to the stud on the firewall. 4ga ground from the driver side block where the factory ground is to a self tapping screw in the frame. 0 gauge ground from the back of the top of the engine in the factory ground spot to the battery. Factory 2ga ground harness straight to the starter from the battery.

 

Very nice the under the hood stuff turned out great!

Got a link to those studs you bought?

 

ARP Ls1 Stainless steel header studs with locking bolts

About to order another set for another engine actually.

 

those are pretty cool and the nuts look huge.


That sounded bad

 

what heads did you end up with?

 

Same WCCH L92s ive been using. Had Walker repair the burned chamber, had them surfaced, and had a shop in Huntsville do a valve job on them.

 

ahh, thought you were going to change them out to keep the comp down.