Brake cleaner is basically the same thing just with less toluene.

Well it was below freezing outside and I didn't want to hose it off so in the guest shower it went! It's clean now

 

I love carb cleaner so much! I order it by the case from O'Reilly. I use it to clean the floor to suck up grease out of concrete. It doesn't work quite as well as kitty litter, but it works well for small drops here and there. I have also learned the hard way how it will eat anything plastic, and anything paint, or anything cloth/ leather. I've also learned that if I clean a part with carb cleaner to prep it for paint, even if I paint the part a day later, the paint doesn't adhere well. It also stings the eyes pretty bad if the nozzle is pointed in the wrong direction prior to spraying

 

It will do more than sting the eyes if you get any on your eyes or ingest any! Containing almost half methanol it will make you go blind relatively quickly!

 

I've sprayed my eyes directly 2-3 times over the years on accident, trying to get the spray into a tight place, and the nozzle was pointed right at my face. Stings a little bit but certainly doesn't make you blind. On the other hand, I've definitely learned my lesson about grinding without goggles. No one and I mean no one wants to get a molten metal sliver removed from their cornea (ask me how I know, happened twice). But surprisingly, even that won't make you blind.

 

Back to the JIC vs AN thing. I don't see a major problem using JIC-37 with AN. They are the same threads and flare angle, but the AN has tighter tolerances. If JIC can hold hydraulic cylinder pressures with their relatively loose tolerances, why would they not be able to work just as well with something that has the same nominal dimensions, but with tighter tolerances?

Now if you were referring to JIC-45 (45 degree flare instead of 37 like AN) and AN. Then that is a complete no go.

 

Yea I was referring to the flare angle being different. Because the threads are the same and it "feels ok" is deceiving because of the sealing faces not matching up. It might work once if you tighten the hell out of it and not ever remove it, but after that game over.

 

I was mig welding stainless one time, leaning over a bench, kinked the hose, feed rolls slipped and wire burned back to the tip. I flipped up my helmet and turned the gun towards me and the wire broke free and a piece of hot spatter flew right into my eye. it must have melted right in, I couldn't feel it until a few months later when it was scraping my eye lid when I blinked.

 

Thats no fun...cant tell you how many times Ive got metal in my eyes, even when I have been wearing a face shield or goggles!

Anyway, after a couple cans of carb cleaner and a pressure washer I have the cleanest intercooler and top manifold in the history of oil soaked whipple parts. I believe there may have been residual oil in the gap between the intercooler and welded on bracket on the side. Also possible under/around the silicone on the intercooler. Thats what im going with anyway to explain where it came from.





I got my -12an to -8anO fittings in and very interestingly they had different IDs...they are vibrant brand. I drilled them both out to 1/2" ID so they are the same now, but I had to take a lot more off of one than the other. They are now slightly larger than the stock whipple fittings (which were also drilled).

 

I noticed that the Vibrant -12 to -8 ORB fittings I got for my Whipple are a much smaller ID and crappier looking transition than the Russell and Earls AN to ORB adapters I have.

 

Its nothing a few seconds with a nice sharp drill bit couldn't fix

They vibrant ones were half the price of anyone else though. The transition looked fine, just ID was small. I was more interested in the mismatch though.