I've sort of been following along on this build.......but it has been long enough that I don't remember most of the details.........and would like to know. What's this going in and what is the engine combination? Goals????

 

Funny how details get lost after a while haha. Truck is the same 99 z71 4wd with the occasional ladder rack.

Engine is an LME built shortblock iron 402, dragonslayer crank, callies rods, and weisco pistons, custom cometic gaskets, SCR around 9.1, arp ca625 head studs, wcch stage 2 L92 heads with a lot of milling,...hell i forgot the cam specs already 230/250 117 or something like that, 4l80e that everyone has had a hand in (me being the last one to rebuild it), stock tcase, built driveshafts, 14b 9.5" rear diff, 127lb injectors dual walbro400 pumps, 2.3L whipple with 2.9" pulley, 8rib IW pullies with OD crank pulley, alky control meth pump, cheap headers and dual 3" to single 4" exhaust.

Everything except the blower and cam and headers are basically the exact same that I ran with my turbo setup, didnt even take the heads off when I switched. The turbo ran 6.05@115 so my goal with the nitrous+blower was to run similar times/speed, but I am a little doubtful without spraying the house down. Never tuned nitrous before and I am going to use my meth pump as the wet fuel instead of drawing off the rail.

 

Well I got the solenoids where I want them and the blower bolted back down. Just need to reconnect some engine wiring and wire up the window switch and buttons and should be ready to rock!



Because there are so many wires I got one of the 12 pin deutsch connectors and decided to use that to make removing it to get out of the way a lot easier. Its a bit of a pain to assemble, but I think will pay off in the end. I didnt have the crimp tool so I crushed and soldered them all to make sure they fit. Connector was $18 on ebay.

I cant weld that great but I can solder like a ****




Lot of wires!

 

Hmmmmmm looks good. What kinda solder gun/pen do you use?

 

Looks good!

I used a deutsch connector for my ls swap too, but I used the open barrel pins (an MSD connector) and bought the MSD crimp jaws and put them on a Harbor freight set of ratcheting crimpers (they fit right in coincidentally). The closed barrel pins like you have are way better, but the crimpers for them are spendy. So I went with the open ones.

 

Got a link to the pins and connectors you used?

 

That's what you get for not asking lol I've got the good crimpers, a basically unlimited supply of pins and whatever connectors you'd want to use. Even got some of that nice tough wire loom that shrinks onto the back of the deutsch connector itself... I use that stuff about once a year if I have to tear into an engine wiring harness on one of my big engines. Other than that it collects dust..... If you do anymore, lemme know and I'll stick the whole shebang in a box and ship it over. On the company's dime of course

 

I just use a 40w pen from radio shack thats about 15 years old now haha. I have a 100w gun, but dont like it near as much. Solder is some 0.022", not sure on the lead/tin split.

I thought about buying the MSD connector, but the deutsch one was a little cheaper. You can also have them make the whole thing for you, but for what I wanted it wouldve been roughly $150 for 2ft of wire on both ends. This is the one I used http://www.ebay.com/itm/231798775040?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
What do the good crimpers do? Just crush the pin around the wire? I did that anyway with some pliers and soldered them and tried to pull them out with no success so I dont think I will have any issues. I might take you up on that if I make one of the big 40+ pin connectors one day.

 

We use "Weller" brand gun/pen to solder computer parts, after using different brands we liked "Weller" the best

 

The MSD connector I got is just like what you did, but the pins are stamped instead of being solid like yours. It was about $30 and the solid pins are higher quality. (https://www.msdperformance.com/produ...ors/parts/8186)

From what I understand, the good crimpers essentially crimp the wire to close to ideal force and evenly. What you want out of a good crimp is for all of the individual wire strands and pin to be compresses enough to deform everything into essentially a solid chunk. You want no air gap between the individual wire strands and between the wire and pin.
The difference between using any old crimper and the deutsch one is that the deutsch one tightens the pin onto the wire all around and gets you a good crimp. The regular crimper squeezes one point and the wire strands can separate and move to the sides and not be crimped.