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Old Nov 24, 2015 | 07:37 AM
  #1141  
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I have another stock water pump sitting right here....I really just want to drill a hole through the pulley/shaft snout and put a bolt in there. No way its coming out with that.

Yea I turned down the idle, its within range of the IAC (although im not sure how much porting it has to do with that), but it doesnt seem comfortable if that makes sense and doesnt help quiet down the IAC at all.
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Old Nov 24, 2015 | 09:29 AM
  #1142  
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Hey Atomic why you no HSVRacing anymore?

(Chinese Voice)
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Old Nov 24, 2015 | 12:31 PM
  #1143  
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I still get on there all the time, but I mainly just read and don't post much. Much more low key forum than this place haha.
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Old Nov 25, 2015 | 10:29 AM
  #1144  
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I went back the next day during the day and found the belt and pulley. The belt is actually in fine shape and I will use it again. The pulley not so much, I found it 100yards down from the belt and over in the median. Looks like a truck ran over it actually.

I think I am going to try to drill and tap the center of the waterpump I have axially along the shaft, then use a bolt and washer to hold the pulley on. I may weld the pulley to that bolt as well for some added strength. I think drilling perpendicular to the shaft may weaken it too much.

The new pulley gets me 12-13psi. Low and midrange pulls like a raped ape, which I expected with the baby cam. Top end obviously doesn't compare to the turbo, but 50-110mph runs were pretty fun. I would guess my 650rwhp estimate is pretty close based on fuel usage (~45% IDC with meth with 127lb injectors).
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Old Nov 25, 2015 | 10:43 AM
  #1145  
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Unless it is a left hand thread, a bolt will not do any good. I think keeping it an interference fit and finding a way to pin it would be a more effective means to keeping the pulley in place. I didn't know you could buy just a pulley for the truck waterpumps?

EDIT: Sorry, I missed the post above stating you had another water pump. I presume that will be the one you try to modify.
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Old Nov 25, 2015 | 10:43 AM
  #1146  
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12-13PSI should be pretty awesome on a 402! I know its in here somewhere... but what size is the pulley on the blower?

Where are your current WOT shift points? You still debating a new cam?
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Old Nov 25, 2015 | 10:50 AM
  #1147  
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Originally Posted by BigKID
Unless it is a left hand thread, a bolt will not do any good. I think keeping it an interference fit and finding a way to pin it would be a more effective means to keeping the pulley in place. I didn't know you could buy just a pulley for the truck waterpumps?
You cant buy just a pulley as far as I can tell, but I have another stock pump sitting in the garage already. I thought about the left hand thread detail, but figured I would use a lot of Loctite...or hell may as well just get a left hand tap and bolt. I thought about doing both actually; short bolt straight in the snout and cross pin a little further down.

Originally Posted by Vortec350ss
12-13PSI should be pretty awesome on a 402! I know its in here somewhere... but what size is the pulley on the blower?

Where are your current WOT shift points? You still debating a new cam?
10% OD crank pulley and 2.9" blower pulley. I think it shifted around 5800, but im not sure. Still debating a new cam, just don't want to spend that much money right now, unless you want to buy my old one of course. You and jarret actually had very similar cams in mind of what would work well, 23x/25x on a 117ish.
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Old Nov 25, 2015 | 11:53 AM
  #1148  
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I'm not surprised to hear that.

Power is falling off so early currently because of how late your exhaust valve opens with the current cam. Coupled with the backpressure you see its a tough environment for a blower to make power up top.

I have no use for the old cam unfortunately.
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Old Nov 25, 2015 | 09:36 PM
  #1149  
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Messed with the other waterpump I have today...drilled through the pulley perpendicular to the shaft....went fine through the pulley, but that shaft is hard as **** and it laughed at my drill bit/press. I need a better strategy to get through the shaft...
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Old Nov 25, 2015 | 09:41 PM
  #1150  
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Solid carbide straight flute drill bit. The shaft is probably case-hardened if not through hardened. That should get the job done. It did on my transmission shift rail. McMaster sells them. And you probably want to do it on a mill, a drill press may not be rigid enough to keep the carbide drill bit from breaking. You can probably take it to a machine shop and have them do it
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