Holley Dominator Install
#61
i don't even use photobucket anymore I just post straight to this site and it works good.
#62
#64
Less parts in the parts pile and more on the motor. Have to sort out what to do about the alternator circuits that used to be connected to the PCM...charge indicator control/field duty cycle.
#65
From what I am reading, some say I only need to connect the L terminal of the AD-244 to switched 12V through a resistor. Others say the second circuit also needs to be wired...directly to switched 12V?? Seems to be a lot of confusion on the web. The service manual does not give a description of operation.
Edit: After sorting through the various charging system related DTCs, it appears that only a turn on signal is needed.
Option 1: Brown wire/L terminal connected to switched 12V through a resistor or bulb. You will fry something if no resistor is used because the F terminal is grounded when the alternator is not spinning or if it fails. Also, the regulator needs to see something less than 12V in order to excite the alternator.
Option 2: Not sure I want the alternator to drag until after the engine has started, so I will tie the L terminal to a 12V output from the Dominator that activates above XXX RPM and deactivates if a stall is imminent. The resistor will also protect the +12V Dominator output from being shorted directly to ground should the alternator fail.
The grey wire/I/F terminal was used by the PCM to sense(via a PWM signal) the load that the alternator was putting on the motor and adjust idle speed accordingly. This could be converted to a 0-5V signal to be input to the Dominator if needed.
The blue wire/ P terminal(engine running signal) was not used on trucks with hydroboost brakes and just leads to a dead end. On other trucks it connects to the supplemental brake assist. This is basically a tach signal.
The S (sense) terminal was not used on my truck. If used, this would typically be connected to a point in the wiring/bus through which there is high accessory current draw.
I tested this 1 wire setup on my 04 Trailblazer and I get 14.4V as soon as I connect the L terminal to 12V (with a resistor...470 ohm/.5W seems good).
Edit: After sorting through the various charging system related DTCs, it appears that only a turn on signal is needed.
Option 1: Brown wire/L terminal connected to switched 12V through a resistor or bulb. You will fry something if no resistor is used because the F terminal is grounded when the alternator is not spinning or if it fails. Also, the regulator needs to see something less than 12V in order to excite the alternator.
Option 2: Not sure I want the alternator to drag until after the engine has started, so I will tie the L terminal to a 12V output from the Dominator that activates above XXX RPM and deactivates if a stall is imminent. The resistor will also protect the +12V Dominator output from being shorted directly to ground should the alternator fail.
The grey wire/I/F terminal was used by the PCM to sense(via a PWM signal) the load that the alternator was putting on the motor and adjust idle speed accordingly. This could be converted to a 0-5V signal to be input to the Dominator if needed.
The blue wire/ P terminal(engine running signal) was not used on trucks with hydroboost brakes and just leads to a dead end. On other trucks it connects to the supplemental brake assist. This is basically a tach signal.
The S (sense) terminal was not used on my truck. If used, this would typically be connected to a point in the wiring/bus through which there is high accessory current draw.
I tested this 1 wire setup on my 04 Trailblazer and I get 14.4V as soon as I connect the L terminal to 12V (with a resistor...470 ohm/.5W seems good).
Last edited by DrX; Jul 17, 2017 at 09:31 AM.
#67
For street use I needed to minimize hood height and be able to run filters. Hood is not officially street legal as it is. Maybe I can fab something once I get more time to play with my new TIG toy.
Last edited by DrX; Jul 7, 2017 at 09:21 AM.
#69



