Graeme's Daily Driver 2003 4x4 Build
#53
Alright so pushrods and valve springs arrived a few days ago, so did the length checker tool.
What preload should I be shooting for??
Also correct me if I am wrong. I should set the checker tool for 7.4 minus preload, then when I install the tool at that length the lash should be zero. If it's not zero then I gotta order new pushrods, right??
What preload should I be shooting for??
Also correct me if I am wrong. I should set the checker tool for 7.4 minus preload, then when I install the tool at that length the lash should be zero. If it's not zero then I gotta order new pushrods, right??
#54
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
Thats one way to do it. Basically use the tool to take up all the slack in the rocker (without compressing the lifter) and see what the length is. Also make sure the valve you are measuring is closed with the cam on the base circle (cylinder at TDC on the compression/power stroke). I would shoot for 0.075" preload.
#55
Thanks Atomic. I'll probably revisit the preload topic once I have the motor apart in a few weeks.
So today a CEL came on, code P0332, which is the knock sensor, low voltage.
I rinsed the engine the other day and I can only imagine that water must got down in there and fucked with them.
I'm an idiot...
So my question is, will they dry out and fix themselves, or did I fry them and need to replace them? Also is it terrible to drive with that code, because if I have to replace them, then I might as well wait until the cam goes in, which should be a few weeks.
So today a CEL came on, code P0332, which is the knock sensor, low voltage.
I rinsed the engine the other day and I can only imagine that water must got down in there and fucked with them.
I'm an idiot...So my question is, will they dry out and fix themselves, or did I fry them and need to replace them? Also is it terrible to drive with that code, because if I have to replace them, then I might as well wait until the cam goes in, which should be a few weeks.
#56
I've been driving with that code coming on and off for months. I wouldnt worry to much about it and just replace them when you do your cam
But some silicon around the rear knock sensor to keep water from getting in there
But some silicon around the rear knock sensor to keep water from getting in there
#59
Alright so unfortunately I have to do the sensors separate from the cam, because Massachusetts likes their vehicles to pass inspection and I am overdue. And you will not pass with a check engine light on.
So looks like I am gonna get it done tonight. I think the torque is something like 90 inch pounds for the manifold, I only have a ft/lb wrench. Is it about time I go get an inch/lb or is tight tight on this?
I'm always looking for an excuse to go to harbor freight
So looks like I am gonna get it done tonight. I think the torque is something like 90 inch pounds for the manifold, I only have a ft/lb wrench. Is it about time I go get an inch/lb or is tight tight on this?
I'm always looking for an excuse to go to harbor freight
#60
Also I know everyone says just put oil on the new cam when you install it, but my motor may be sitting for a few days before it is started after the swap, can I put comp cam break in lube on it instead?






