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Graeme's Daily Driver 2003 4x4 Build

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Old May 9, 2015 | 10:23 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Vortec350ss


Looks awesome!
Thanks for speccing it by the way

Last edited by GM1697; May 9, 2015 at 12:47 PM.
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Old May 9, 2015 | 10:31 AM
  #42  
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It goes along the cam direction. Take the pushrods out when you swap cams and give the one in there some quick hand turns before pulling it and the lifters should stay up on their own long enough to swap cama.
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Old May 9, 2015 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Atomic
It goes along the cam direction. Take the pushrods out when you swap cams and give the one in there some quick hand turns before pulling it and the lifters should stay up on their own long enough to swap cama.
Are you suggesting the "Russian roulette method"
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Old May 9, 2015 | 02:50 PM
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If I were to buy a used Autocal, could I access the BB tune and make adjustments? Or would I have to purchase credits?
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Old May 9, 2015 | 04:10 PM
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If a lifter falls, you just have to pull the pan to get it. They should stay in place though.
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Old May 9, 2015 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by GM1697
Alright well to avoid delays, I'm gonna keep the 7.4's on order, but get the checker tool also, so best case scenario it'll take the 7.4's and the truck will only be down for a day, worst case I gotta mail back the 7.4's and wait for an alternate size to arrive.

Also I figure I'll use the wooden dowel method to hold up the lifters, who has used this method? Are the dowels going in next to the camshaft, like the JPR tool (or whatever its called), or do they go in place of every pushrod? (I've done this way on my Cummins)
I've done the wooden dowels from home depot on all of my cam swaps, it's perfect and dirt cheap. I always sharpen the tip of the dowel on the ground (like a pencil) so it slides in easy under the lifters and I also soak them in oil to prevent and wood splints from coming off in the block.
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Old May 9, 2015 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by GMCtrk
I've done the wooden dowels from home depot on all of my cam swaps, it's perfect and dirt cheap. I always sharpen the tip of the dowel on the ground (like a pencil) so it slides in easy under the lifters and I also soak them in oil to prevent and wood splints from coming off in the block.
Really no reason not to do it this way. I'll be doing mine this way if i ever have to. I just realized I've only done cam swaps with the engine on a stand. Except with I had the gen 1 small block in my truck.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 06:12 PM
  #48  
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Alright Ill make sure to grab some dowels before the install. 5/16 is the correct size I believe??

Also what's everyones favorite spring tool. I've heard the crane is good, but its pricey, jegs also makes their own version. I'm against the whole bent scrap metal thing.

Lastly, whats everyone using as an install tool for the balancer. I plan on throwing an ARP bolt in there once it's on.

Last edited by GM1697; May 13, 2015 at 10:03 PM.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 08:21 PM
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I use a longer grade 8 bolt, but if you want to be the safest, you could get the balancer install tool from sdpc/dirttrackracer
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Old May 13, 2015 | 09:03 PM
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I made my own install tool from threaded rod, but the sdpc one tyler makes works great too. I have the comp spring compressor, works fine.
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