When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Finally made time to get the Rossler 4L80 in. To do that, we also had to redo the exhaust (which I wanted to do anyways)
Luckily, we were able to use most of the Stainless Works material from my old truck on this one. So instead of having 1 3/4” headers and crush bend mild steel 3” exhaust, I now have 1 7/8” headers and a mandrel bend 3” exhaust with a Stainless Works x-pipe and dual 20” 6” round magnaflow mufflers (same mufflers as before) It’s amazing how different the sound is now after basically just adding an x-pipe. So mellow. I love it. Seems to have picked up a considerable amount of power as I had to add quite a bit fuel from pretty off idle to 7400rpm (upwards of 17% more fuel in some places). Hope to get it back on the dyno to the track maybe this week to see what we picked up
Transbrake button on the steering wheel
Also switched the truck over to a 29.5x10.5 slick. No doubt in my mind it’s faster on a radial, but I’ll trade off a little et for consistency on the street�� Can’t wait to let go of the transbrake button and leave at 3500rpm on the ish
Well, the 408 is no more. I pulled the Rossler out to be sent back in for a couple upgrades and while it was gone, decided to put my stock 4L80 back in so I could still race. Unfortunately I forgot to change my shift points (Rossler shifts within 20rpm of commanded, stock trans has to be commanded at 6600 to make the shift by 7400ish) and made a couple runs to 8000rpm+. I was able to get my 10 second pass on a 100shot but then the next pass it let go about the 660' mark. Completely disintegrated #4 piston, broke #4 rod, damaged #5 rod, broke the crank, destroyed the cam, damaged the heads, and broke the block as well as put a hole in it. After looking everything over real good, I'm guessing it pulled the pin out of the bottom of the piston as #5 piston was cracked in that area upon inspection. The motor had been together for 5 years and didn't owe anyone anything. It wasn't built to run as much nitrous as I had been prior to this outing. It was built to run well N/A and then spray it with a 100shot, not 3-400 lol
I was actually hoping the crank was still good so I could build a 383 or even another 408 if I could find a 6.0 block but after taking it to have inspected, sure enough, it was broke. So, I took some time to figure out exactly what I wanted to do. Whatever I would decided on, would have to be matched well with the F1a procharger I planned to use on my next build. I thought about putting the 408 for my s10 in it, but decided against that. I'd almost decided on building a 331 (3.80 bore 5.3) and then I found a smoking deal on an LS2 longblock out of a TBSS that had a spun rod bearing. So I went and picked it up, brought it back to the shop, disassembled it, and then took it to the machine shop.
While the motor was gone, I gave Procharger a call and they got me hooked up with their stage 2 kit with an F1a-94 head unit. Ever since I first got into hotrodding back around 2006, I'd always wanted to have the Procharger sound. And now I would have it.
The motor ended up with a 4.030 bore. I used a crankshaft out of a 5.3 we had laying around out back. I was able to reuse 6 of my old rods. The old heads were repaired. I gave Texas Speed a call to order some CP pistons, a couple new compstar rods, and gave them some specs for a cam for them to grind. So, the new setup is:
11.5:1 370c.i.
SDPC cnc L92 heads with PAC 1208x springs
Johnson lifters
3/8 pushrods
Rollmaster single roller adjustable timing set
235/248 .649/.615 114LSA
Vic Jr intake with elbow
I got the motor put together and then was able to get it put in the truck when I got back from SEMA. Didn't touch the tune from when it was a 408 but it fired right up and actually drove well. Put a few miles on it and then a couple weeks later we loaded up to head to the track in Tulsa. I pulled a few degrees of timing and pulled the shift points back to around 6400rpm and managed to run a 12.5x at 109mph. I was actually really happy with that considering the 60' was .2 slower than normal and I hadn't really even tuned for this motor yet.
I had bought control arms, atomic mounts, and coil overs for the truck awhile back, but I had a number I wanted to run before we swapped over. Unfortunately the motor blew up directly after I hit that number lol. So now that that new motor was in and we had a little down time, I swapped over to the coilover setup. Saved 13.5# per corner
Yes the welding in the picture is for the mallory in the crank for balancing.
I wasking if the wheel was weld together since they are 2 pieces and also if it was tack welded to the end of the crank.
Oh. I'm not sure. I told the machine shop do whatever is needed so I don't have trouble with the wheel. We've had trouble with the wheel being installed wrong in the past on the truck with the last crank
Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
BTW, What kind of valve covers are those? They look really sanitary. I like them.
They're billet ones from Moroso. They have these and then the taller ones like I have on the motor for my s10
05-29-2018, 01:04 AM
