this thing is gonna turn out so awsome man. i can't wait to see a video of this thing launching

 

That's what we're here for.

You and me both. I've got pretty high expectations for this build.

 

Had my second knee surgery today and it went much better than I was expecting. I was expecting to have to be on crutches again for another 6 weeks, however the tear in my meniscus was so bad the doc couldn't repair it. He had to just cut that part completely out, which means I'm already walking around. Very sore, but I can walk and full recovery should be just 2-3 weeks instead of 6+. Should be able to get back working on the truck shortly.

 

im glad to hear it went well man!!! good luck and keep us posted

 

Quick update, I've been working on the wiring. The plan was to remove the engine harness from the truck, take it apart, remove all the unnecessary wiring and put back together in a fashion to where it looks good. Well that turned into removing every single harness on the truck. There is a harness for the engine, one under the dash, one that goes to the rear for lights and fuel tank stuff and then the one in the front for lights and stuff. So far I've removed 8.8 lbs. of wiring and havent even gotten to the engine yet. I sure hope this piece of **** runs and everything I want to work works when I put it back together. I'll say this, seeing 8.8lbs. of wiring on the floor in the gargage all gutted, cut up and lying there in a pile of jumbled up mess makes me a little uneasy. A friend of mine came over tonight and was like WTF! I told him if it didn't work, I'm burning it and collecting insurance.

Here's a list of things I've removed (I'm sure I've missed some):

Rear Harness:
Trailer wiring
Fuel Pump
Fuel Level
Misc, tank wiring (MAP/EVAP)
ABS
Brake Fluid Level Sensor

Front Harness:
Horns
Airbags
A/C
Ambient Air Temp Sensor (For the rear view mirror)

Dash:
Airbags
Seats
XM Radio (I'm keeping the AM/FM CD player)
A/C
Cig. Lighter
12v power supply

Wiring to remove on the engine harness:
Knock Sensors
MAF
Rear O2's
Front O2's
Oil Level Sensor
EVAP

 

id be scared to do all that bs. why are you taking all the wiring out? im just curious.
hurry up lol.

glad your knee surgery went good, my fiance' was out 7 weeks bc her knee was being a pita

 

He is taking wiring out to save 8.8 pounds already. He should end up dropping 10 lbs or so I would guess. I am sure he is trying to clean everything up a little bit.

 

While the weight savings is minimal, all the little things do add up and the wiring should me much cleaner and simpler when it's done. I'll be very interested to see how much this thing weighs when it's all said and done. The only place I'm adding weight is the cage (+/- 80lbs. guess) and the Procharger w/A2W which I'm guessing will add another +/- 70lbs.

I'd like to be at most 4000 lbs. race ready with me in it, so I need to lose about 550lbs. Thats about 700 lbs. when you add the cage and new FI. Not sure if I'm gonna get there.

 

Ordered the injectors this week: Lucas 120lbs. low imp. and a versafueler.

I've got the engine harness ready to mock up in the truck and it looks like I'm gonna need to shorten most of the wires (relocated pcm). Where can I get new pins for the pcm wires? I figured this would be easiest as I would only have to buy one type of pin and I could just route everything up to the pcm, trim or lengthen the wires as needed, attach pins, heatshrink and I'm done.

Unless I'm missing something, this seems easier than repinning each connector, right?

O'yea, I've been tossing around some different ideas for a power adder and am now about 90% sure it will be the lsx transplant cog drive F2. I was all but completely sold on doing the gear drive however, the more people I talk to the more I hear that it won't last on the street. The urethane pucks and then minimal lubrication in the gear box being the problem. Only thing I don't understand is how can a procharger survive on 4-6 oz. of oil and the gear drive can't? I was also tossing around the idea of mounting a rev. rotation unit and running it cogged (basically in front of the motor). Just doesn't seem cost effective when I can add additional bracing to the side slinger bracket.....just rambling...........

 

The great thing I liked about the cog drive system was I could take the belt off and drive the truck around normaly on motor, when I wanted all the power I would just throw the belt back on. I only takes literally a minute to take the belt off or on.