Hey guys, need a couple last decisions before I can pull the trigger and finish getting all the parts together for my LQ4 Build. At first I only wanted to do a cam swap, but I am starting to think I would want to do a cam and heads set up. With the following build plans:
- LQ4 Block
- 243 Heads, already milled .030, Ported and Polished
- Patriot Dual Valve Springs
- Texas Speed 228R Camshaft, .588"/.588"
- LS2 Timing Set
- Melling Hi Volume Oil Pump
- Texas Speed Head and Camshaft Install Kit, GM Head Bolts
- Converter?

Questions I have about the build are:
- With the heads milled, which gasket will I need and what compression will that net me? I need to make sure I can run on 91 Octane
- What converter should I be swapping to eventually when I get to it? It is going in a 2002 Sierra 2500HD with a 4L80E and 4:10s
- This is a daily driver and will be getting a dyno tune once the build is complete. What kind of RWHP would you guys expect to see from this? I'm thinking 350 at the wheels?

 

What are your future goals? Expect to run any forced induction eventually?

 

Future goals would be leaving it like this. Eventually down the road the motor may come out and move to a different vehicle, but I would deal with any changes down the road. For now, it would be just what I wrote for plans. Also curious about pushrods for this build?

 

Get a pushrod checker from summit or jegs and measure after the new cam install. Since your not going FI then no need for hardened rods IMO. I would call Chris with Circle D converters and ask him about converter ideas as he's a great guy to deal with, and opinions are free.

 

With stock height head gaskets 0.051 you should be around 10.7-8:1 range for compression. For $100 I would order harden pushrods, cheap insurance for knowing you will never have a push rod bend. You are probably going to be around a 7.375" pushrod with 0.03 milled off the heads, Mine are 7.375 with my heads milled 0.03 but your motor/deck height could be different, so it is best to check with a push rod checker.

On the stall you are probably going to want around a 3200 stall, but it would be best to call circle d.

 

The Texas Speed Kit I am looking into comes with the Pushrods, and I don't think I would skip out on them when I am planning to build this thing and keep it together for quite a while. The 7.375" Pushrods sound pretty much perfect, anyone know how much one of those Pushrod Checker's goes for?

Anyone have any idea of RWHP with this build? I am really hoping for 400 but am happy to settle for a little less. I am hoping that those heads will really help bring that motor to life. Also, anyone know what I should list my set of 317 Heads for? I was thinking $250 but could be worth more or less?

I will also be phoning Circle D this week to see what Chris recommends, although I agree with the post that 3200 sounds about right. It will be Daily Driven so that shouldn't be too aggressive for me! Thanks for the replies guys.

 

I would get the comp cam push rod checker $20 easy to use.

Depends on how big your wheels and tires are, and I assume your 2500 has a 14bolt rear end which might cause a little more drive train loss.

Easily be in the 360-380 range, 400 at the wheels might be a little high, but who really knows until it is tested.

 

Ok sounds good to me, tires are 285/75/16 on Stock Rims. Rear end is 14 Bolt 4:10s, and thanks for the info on the Pushrod Checker I might as well buy one of those, seems like every other god damn friend of mine is coming around and seeing my point of view on LS performance! I'll just have to charge out some rental fees.

 

Are you running the stock intake manifold with the 78mm throttle body?

Those heads sure would appreciate a nnbs intake manifold with a 90mm throttle body especially for a 6.0. Just a thought since the nnbs intake manifold will have to be dialed in with a tune and what perfect time with the cam swap.

You could always do it later down the road, the nnbs would probably give you 15 rwhp over the stock, and with the 6.0 I wouldn't think you would notice any low end loss like you would with a 4.8/5.3.

 

Thanks for that suggestion Camaro. I have been wondering about intake as well. I really wanna stay drive by cable and not DRW, and am wondering what the cheapest and best flowing set up would be that would bolt-on without any issues. My biggest concern being that I do not want to start into any cutting, splicing, adjusting, or tampering with wiring or anything whatsoever. If it will just bolt directly into place and the throttle body will hook right up with the factory set up, I am all in for a NNBS Intake and Throttle Body. Only concern I have now also is exhaust, I have the stock manifolds on the truck and a nice exhaust that I don't want to mess with. Will it still flow OK with the stock truck manifolds or is that gonna kill the HP?

Thanks for all this info Camaro, as this is all good to get in order before I start buying too many parts and before I get the truck tuned. I am going to AGP in Newmarket to get my tuning done once I get the build finished. He has done some work for my brother's D-Max and Nick, the guy who operates it, is an awesome guy to deal with. Would recommend that shop to anyone looking for parts, tuning or dyno use!