LQ4 Build Plans - Final Questions
#11
I don't know all the install details for the nnbs other than yes your cable throttle body will work with a fabricated cross link, and the fuel rails might need to be raised with some washers/spacers. I quit learning about it once I found out it would hurt my low end power on my 5.3
As for the manifolds, either keep them or go long tubes. Don't waste your time with shorty headers. You could get some longtubes install them, and take the new high flow cats and have the exhaust shop fabricate the a new exhaust from your header collectors back to your original exhaust where you cut it.
The headers you can do at a later time, but you will need a tune for them and tunes will start adding up if you go to shops.
I have pacesetter quicktrip ceramic coated longtubes and the still look brand new after 30K miles. I got the them brand new for $370-80 can't remember exactly.
LT will give you 20rw gains on a stock motor, but with your heads and cam they would match the combo very nicely and probably give 30+rw not to mention the low end and mid range tq LT will provide over the stock manifolds.
As for the manifolds, either keep them or go long tubes. Don't waste your time with shorty headers. You could get some longtubes install them, and take the new high flow cats and have the exhaust shop fabricate the a new exhaust from your header collectors back to your original exhaust where you cut it.
The headers you can do at a later time, but you will need a tune for them and tunes will start adding up if you go to shops.
I have pacesetter quicktrip ceramic coated longtubes and the still look brand new after 30K miles. I got the them brand new for $370-80 can't remember exactly.
LT will give you 20rw gains on a stock motor, but with your heads and cam they would match the combo very nicely and probably give 30+rw not to mention the low end and mid range tq LT will provide over the stock manifolds.
#13
The Texas Speed Kit I am looking into comes with the Pushrods, and I don't think I would skip out on them when I am planning to build this thing and keep it together for quite a while. The 7.375" Pushrods sound pretty much perfect, anyone know how much one of those Pushrod Checker's goes for?
Anyone have any idea of RWHP with this build? I am really hoping for 400 but am happy to settle for a little less. I am hoping that those heads will really help bring that motor to life. Also, anyone know what I should list my set of 317 Heads for? I was thinking $250 but could be worth more or less?
I will also be phoning Circle D this week to see what Chris recommends, although I agree with the post that 3200 sounds about right. It will be Daily Driven so that shouldn't be too aggressive for me! Thanks for the replies guys.
Anyone have any idea of RWHP with this build? I am really hoping for 400 but am happy to settle for a little less. I am hoping that those heads will really help bring that motor to life. Also, anyone know what I should list my set of 317 Heads for? I was thinking $250 but could be worth more or less?
I will also be phoning Circle D this week to see what Chris recommends, although I agree with the post that 3200 sounds about right. It will be Daily Driven so that shouldn't be too aggressive for me! Thanks for the replies guys.
I upgraded to the TBSS intake and after all the money I spent I doubt the $ to HP ratio was worth it, but if money is not the question then there are many options for intakes out there and I see two TBSS intakes in the classifieds as we speak. You will have to buy an adapter plate for the current TB you have to fit on the TBSS/NNBS setups something like this http://www.ebay.com/bhp/ls1-throttle-body-adapter Since your playing with the heads you could also upgrade the rockers with COMP trunions for a little added insurance.
Last edited by Hivelocit; Apr 28, 2014 at 05:09 PM.
#14
If the kit comes with them then great! Thought since you were not going too aggressive and if the stockers would still fit then no need to spend extra on hardened PR's. This is the checker I used COMP Cams 7702-1 Comp Cams Pushrod Length Checker - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS
I upgraded to the TBSS intake and after all the money I spent I doubt the $ to HP ratio was worth it, but if money is not the question then there are many options for intakes out there and I see two TBSS intakes in the classifieds as we speak. You will have to buy an adapter plate for the current TB you have to fit on the TBSS/NNBS setups something like this LS1 Throttle Body Adapter | eBay Since your playing with the heads you could also upgrade the rockers with COMP trunions for a little added insurance.
I upgraded to the TBSS intake and after all the money I spent I doubt the $ to HP ratio was worth it, but if money is not the question then there are many options for intakes out there and I see two TBSS intakes in the classifieds as we speak. You will have to buy an adapter plate for the current TB you have to fit on the TBSS/NNBS setups something like this LS1 Throttle Body Adapter | eBay Since your playing with the heads you could also upgrade the rockers with COMP trunions for a little added insurance.
As far as Comp Trunions go, I am also considering them. For the extra $150 they'll realistically cost me, thats an awful lot of insurance. Although I won't be revving this truck past 5500, so I know Rick @ Vengeance and Texas Speed both had indicated to me that I wouldn't need to buy them if I didn't feel like it.
What would you guys use for Head Gaskets? I am thinking Cometic 4.035" in .051" Thickness (Stock Thickness)?
#15
I just ask b/c that cam is a great cam, but seems to be more suitable for a gto or single cab truck that are light in weight. In my opinion I would go smaller 1 to bring the power band down and keep more of the low end tq that your HD needs 2 b/c you don't really plan on spinning the motor past 5500
something more around a 216/220 or 220/224, the 228 would probably give you a solid 10-15hp gain on the top end but you wont really see it shifting at 5500 vs the duration range I mentioned will keep that bottom end power better and still shine all the way to 6200 rpm.
Just something to think about....bigger isn't necessarily better when it come to cams.
As for the intake gaskets, you could go with a 0.04 thickness if you wont have any PTV issues and it should put you right at 11:1
something more around a 216/220 or 220/224, the 228 would probably give you a solid 10-15hp gain on the top end but you wont really see it shifting at 5500 vs the duration range I mentioned will keep that bottom end power better and still shine all the way to 6200 rpm.
Just something to think about....bigger isn't necessarily better when it come to cams.
As for the intake gaskets, you could go with a 0.04 thickness if you wont have any PTV issues and it should put you right at 11:1
#16
I just ask b/c that cam is a great cam, but seems to be more suitable for a gto or single cab truck that are light in weight. In my opinion I would go smaller 1 to bring the power band down and keep more of the low end tq that your HD needs 2 b/c you don't really plan on spinning the motor past 5500
something more around a 216/220 or 220/224, the 228 would probably give you a solid 10-15hp gain on the top end but you wont really see it shifting at 5500 vs the duration range I mentioned will keep that bottom end power better and still shine all the way to 6200 rpm.
Just something to think about....bigger isn't necessarily better when it come to cams.
As for the intake gaskets, you could go with a 0.04 thickness if you wont have any PTV issues and it should put you right at 11:1
something more around a 216/220 or 220/224, the 228 would probably give you a solid 10-15hp gain on the top end but you wont really see it shifting at 5500 vs the duration range I mentioned will keep that bottom end power better and still shine all the way to 6200 rpm.
Just something to think about....bigger isn't necessarily better when it come to cams.
As for the intake gaskets, you could go with a 0.04 thickness if you wont have any PTV issues and it should put you right at 11:1
One other small question for you guys to ponder over. I had kind of decided on a 114 LSA cam for a nice smooth idle. However, if it would also help, how would a 112 LSA idle? I am gonna be keeping my A/C and don't want any issues with P/S and Vacuum and such. Could I run a 112 happily without any issue or do you think the difference it would make in the torque curve would not justify the choppier idle? Food for thought, you guys (Specifically Camaro) have been awesome in helping me figure out some things I really needed.
Last edited by Boyes50; Apr 29, 2014 at 02:28 PM.
#18
190hp? Yea you have some serious drive train loss. A stock 5.3L should be around 230-240, mine was 244hp with CAI, exhaust, and before tune on a mustang dyno
I think you would be much happier with the TR224, the power will kick in probably 500rpm sooner.
Another option would be the vinci trucker cam 216/224 .551/.551 on 115Lsa. Very popular proven cam for 6.0s. This cam would be perfect for N/a motor or a supercharger later down the road. I have the vinci 210/218 with a stock stall and it is night and day different through out the entire power band compared to stock.
As for the Lsa 112 vs 114 a good tune/tuner should make it to where to only difference is the chop and the slight difference in power band, you shouldn't have any vacuum issues with a good tune.
I think you would be much happier with the TR224, the power will kick in probably 500rpm sooner.
Another option would be the vinci trucker cam 216/224 .551/.551 on 115Lsa. Very popular proven cam for 6.0s. This cam would be perfect for N/a motor or a supercharger later down the road. I have the vinci 210/218 with a stock stall and it is night and day different through out the entire power band compared to stock.
As for the Lsa 112 vs 114 a good tune/tuner should make it to where to only difference is the chop and the slight difference in power band, you shouldn't have any vacuum issues with a good tune.
#19
190hp? Yea you have some serious drive train loss. A stock 5.3L should be around 230-240, mine was 244hp with CAI, exhaust, and before tune on a mustang dyno
I think you would be much happier with the TR224, the power will kick in probably 500rpm sooner.
Another option would be the vinci trucker cam 216/224 .551/.551 on 115Lsa. Very popular proven cam for 6.0s. This cam would be perfect for N/a motor or a supercharger later down the road. I have the vinci 210/218 with a stock stall and it is night and day different through out the entire power band compared to stock.
As for the Lsa 112 vs 114 a good tune/tuner should make it to where to only difference is the chop and the slight difference in power band, you shouldn't have any vacuum issues with a good tune.
I think you would be much happier with the TR224, the power will kick in probably 500rpm sooner.
Another option would be the vinci trucker cam 216/224 .551/.551 on 115Lsa. Very popular proven cam for 6.0s. This cam would be perfect for N/a motor or a supercharger later down the road. I have the vinci 210/218 with a stock stall and it is night and day different through out the entire power band compared to stock.
As for the Lsa 112 vs 114 a good tune/tuner should make it to where to only difference is the chop and the slight difference in power band, you shouldn't have any vacuum issues with a good tune.
I have looked at the Vinci Trucker Cam as well and just have some some trouble finding dyno results from anyone with heads and a Vinci. Seems if people are running Vinci's, they are normally stock heads.
I think I will do some more looking at the TR224 and see about it, and I think I will stick 114 LSA. I don't want anyone to know I'm running a cam until I mat the truck!
#20
Oh yea yea yea you have ported heads, yes you are correct about the vinci being good for stock heads with that duration split. I feel like 112 would be cool for a while and then would start to get old, plus the higher Lsa typically has better driving manners and vacuum.
Do you know if your tuner removed to all tq management? If not that could be what is causing the lack of burnout, have you tried doing it in tow haul mode?
And a stock 2500 puts down and average of 240, so with your cai,exhaust, should cancel out the drive loss from 33" tires and with a tune you should be around 260rwhp. Are you sure you weren't running on 7 cylinders? lol jk but seriously there might be something going on if you are making 190 and should be around 250-260. I would start a thread asking about this, maybe get some ideas on what is choking/robbing that 6.0
Do you know if your tuner removed to all tq management? If not that could be what is causing the lack of burnout, have you tried doing it in tow haul mode?
And a stock 2500 puts down and average of 240, so with your cai,exhaust, should cancel out the drive loss from 33" tires and with a tune you should be around 260rwhp. Are you sure you weren't running on 7 cylinders? lol jk but seriously there might be something going on if you are making 190 and should be around 250-260. I would start a thread asking about this, maybe get some ideas on what is choking/robbing that 6.0


