I installed these this past sunday, and just NOW got time to upload the pics of the install, so here goes!
Driver's side steering shaft clearance


passenger side frame clearance:



the comdata card doesn't really show much, but you can just about squeeze your little finger inbetween the primary and the frame

Driver's side and the front diff:

oh snap!!:



after reinstalling the driveshaft, I noticed somewhat of a "tight" fit between it, and one of the primaries. the credit card is wedged in-between the two.

if it weren't for the balance weight on the driveshaft, this would have worked without ANY modification, but it was in the way, so the ball-peen hammer come out and a few small, swift blows in about a 1" square gave me plenty of room, without sacraficing anything that my stock 5.3, or probably any other motor you or I will ever drop between the fenders of a truck.

driver's side crossover pipe to tranny pan directly in front of the crossmember:


driver's side crossover pipe to passenger's side rear corner of tranny pan (right before it merges with the pass side pipe):

looks tighter than it really is

same spot, bottom view:


after the y-pipe merges together and heads back to the rest of the exhaust:


front driveshaft to driver's side crossover pipe:

close, probably wouldn't work with a suspension lift, seeing the different driveline angle, but works for me!

oh yeah, this is what they went on:

 

good pics bro ordered my lpp's about 10 mins ago. have you noticed and diff in driving it? does it sound better?

 

Excellent collection of pics, the fitment looks really good IMO. You have more clearance on the passenger's side frame than I do with my SW's. What are you using for bolts to secure the flanges to the heads, looks like the stockers? If so, I'd upgrade those as the stock bolts have been known to break off in the stock manifolds...not to say that this will happen with your headers, but a little insurance never hurts

 

after reading about other testimony's regarding the passenger header fitment, I was worried as well, but there seems to be plenty of room with the LPP's, even the driver's side with the driveshaft interference is NO WHERE near as severe as my friend's 2000 sierra with OBX's, he beat the living **** out of one primary to get it to clear, but his was actually rubbing on the front yoke, not the shaft.

I'll look in to some aftermarket bolts. the headers came with some generic looking 12 or 13mm bolts, but I didn't use them. out of habit with f-bodies, I just reused the stockers, but it seems to be a problem with trucks breaking the heads off. thanks for the heads up.

the truck has had a quick tune before the headers, basically just zero TM, shift points changed, a little timing after cutting off the cats, and recalibrated the MAF. a dyno session and a full-on tune will be had in about 2 weeks.

the truck seems to have a little more midrange, leaning down hard on it at around 25mph, but not hard enough to shift back in to first, seems like it pulls a noticeable amount better.
with the 285's on, punching it from a dead-stop would result in little more than a tire chirping and thats it. now, it will spin for about 10 or 15ft, and kick out about 6 or 8 inches to the pass. side.

about the sound... on my car, it was WAY louder with LT's and ORY than manifolds, and I've got one of the short aero chamber muffler's on the truck which is a little too loud for my DD taste, so I figured it was going to be obnoxiously loud, I guess the harmonics of the header's, or something changed it all, it's got a more mellow tone to it now, not quite as loud at idle and part throttle, and doesn't rasp at 1800 like it used to, hell, the sound difference alone is almost worth the $$$! WOT sounds like death to the world, lol

I'm really excited to see what kind of gains I can get with the tuning, and possibly an airaid jr.

 

Im using your cradit card in the picture right now to order a set of LT's now just playin but nice job those Stainless LT's are nice.

 

so, youre going to use his fuel card to buy something...haha.

 

Just posted my thread of how I feel about them... Love them to death...

Is it better to torq them down while their warm or cool? Ive heard mixed feelings on this subject...

 

I torque them down cool, then run em and re-torque them either hot or cool. I like to keep a wrench in the glove box for the bolts that go into the heads. Those bolts used to loosen up all the time on my old sbc's of the past, although it hasn't been such a big problem on my truck. With my Gibson shorties, I had to re-torque the bolts a few times, while my current SW's seemed to be good to go after initial install. I rechecked the bolts after the first day and they were still tight. Re-checked them a few times for the next week and luckily enough they were good every time. Definitely worth the few minutes to recheck them after a few heat cycles though.

 

hmm i want some LT's but being 4wd as well and seeing how close those are to the driveshaft makes me worried........

 

ya be VERY careful with it in 4wd,my y hits the DS and the yoke has dented the header
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