:p :p
Dick

 

Ummm, do you two know each other?

Hey Ripped - No word from that guy yet. Just letting you know.

 

Ouch but your right about that

XLR8NSS

I'll follow up in the AM Wednesday..

 

Hahaha...Glad you guys can laugh.

Ok Ripped, I'll be waiting.

 

FLP rocks, i will be going thru them again if i can get chuck to build me a 4L80e, there service is just unbeatable.

i predict it will last you indefinately. i launched my truck HARD, MANY times. the stock tranny lasted about one week once i got my false knock taken care of, the first flp tranny lasted only about a month but i had some visious front wheel hop that i believe was responsable, that and a dip in the intersection where i was racing/launching from, i think i had the entire turck off the ground when it shifted into 2nd and then came down spinning(very bad)

it wasn't uncomon for me to make 15 full throttle launches(8psi and 75shot) in one night. i bet i had 200 launches on that tranny and as many as 75 full 1/4 mile runs. when it did break it wasn't wheel hop, it was just too much power.

did you ever say how much boost you are running? what about your maf reading, what does it max out at? i think i can give you a prety good idea if it will last if you know your max maf reading. i am sure your truck will run HARD but i dont think that radix is big enuff to get you to the numbers i was at. i saw a max of 56lb/min at 8psi and then i bumped it to 9psi and put a 100shot on it before the tranny let go, that had to be close to 700flywheel hp.

what is the transfercase in that thing? and is the front the same as the 1500's? the autotrack is rated at 2100(?)ft/lb's and is the same unit they put in the non HD2500's even with the 3x multiplication of 1st gear you would need to make 700ft/lb's at the flywheel before you got to the max rating on the transfercase, but you probably have a diferent unit.

i am VERY excited to see what your truck runs, watching closely.

 

Parish

I havent installed the boost gauge yet, soon though. And I could only guess at 4-5lbs..Using my IAT's under boost as an indicator.

My MAF pegs very early so I'm using something to lie about the readings it sends... not Translater

The Radix may not be big enough, I don't know yet. But I'm going to spin the snit out of it as its not building that much boost I shouldn't have a heating the intake charge issue comparable to going from 6psi to 10psi.

I've got some addtional parts coming as I'm out of 50lb injector @ 5400rpm. I'm going to step up the FP which should work, the math comes out to having the injectors support 125 per hole at the higher pressure. (Not that I have that much power, just what it will support)

FWIW, my motor made 587 Flywheel HP @ 6200rpms or something close to that. And 570 something torque Without the blower.. And my guess is that it makes more potentially because the lower manifold is not as restrictive as the stock manifold plenum...

My .02cents it isn't about boost its about density and CFM. The Radix is probably limited to around 850CFM which is going to be enough for me for awhile.

BigTex might be able to answer the transfer case questions. Though I do know how to R&R it now

And I felt pretty well taken care of by FLP

 

Ripped - Siemens makes a 57lb @ 43.5psi injector that works very nicely It's more like a 67lb injector at our stock pressure.

What's this stuff about? You can't do that to us. Does this thing have Pro-M stamped on it anywhere?

 

those are some very impresive numbers!!! i really cant wait to hear what that thing will run, i may just adjust my future plans if that radix really will feed that motor.

it seems like at some point a roots style blower would be a wasted effort if not sized properly for the engine. i have to believe that your not going to get all that much extra power with the radix just due to the fact that your motor flows sooo mush without it but i would love to be shown how wrong i am.

are there any compresor maps floating around for the radix?

one other thing, if you are seeing 5psi with that blower on that motor i would like to change my tranny prediction, at 5psi i imiagine you would be pushing 800flywheel horsepower with killer traction, it may die quickly

 

Sounds like you need to get enough boost to max out the MAF, then throw a good solid wet nitrous shot to top it off.

____________________________________
New Venture Transfer Case in the SS:

The NVG 149 RPO NP3 is a single speed, single mode transfer case. The mode is full-time all wheel drive. It has a planetary differential gear set that splits the torque, normally 38 percent to the front wheels and 62 percent to the rear wheels.

The NVG 149 utilizes magnesium housings. Proper fasteners, brackets, and fill/drain plugs must be used to prevent galvanic corrosion. The planetary differential uses the carrier as the input. The annulus gear connects to the rear output shaft and rear wheels. The sun gear connects to the front output shaft and front wheels through the chain and sprockets. The viscous coupling consists of a sealed housing filled with a high viscosity silicone fluid and thin steel plates alternately splined to the inner and outer drum. The inner drum is connected to the input shaft, and the outer drum to the sun gear. Whenever there is a speed difference between the front and rear wheels, the inner and outer plates of the viscous coupling spin relative to each other and the silicone fluid provides resistance. The resistance was tuned to be high enough to bias power quickly to the wheels with traction, and low enough to prevent binding in a tight turn on dry surfaces. This is the most common way the viscous coupling is activated, the shear mode. If the speed difference is high, the coupling can lock or hump. This "hump" occurs when the heat generated, expands the fluid inside the housing, changing the fluid dynamics between the plates. This results in pressure between the plates, forcing them into contact with each other, similar to a clutch pack. In the hump mode, the coupling can bias torque 100 percent to one axle, if required. Situations requiring this are extreme such as backing up a steep gravel grade or climbing over off-road obstacles. The viscous coupling is not serviceable; it must be replaced if defective. This is because each viscous coupling is calibrated for optimum vehicle performance for both the shear and hump modes. If the viscous coupling is in the "hump" mode too long, severe damage will occur. To prevent damage to the viscous coupling,
DO NOT:
Tow with only two wheels down
Drive without one propshaft
Drive with a "donut" spare tire for an extended period of time
-----
During normal operation, 100 percent torque is delivered to the input shaft from the transmission. The torque is split to 62 percent to the rear output shaft and 38 percent to the front output shaft, by the planetary differential. Because there is not a loss in traction or slip in the front or rear wheels, the viscous coupling is locked in place and there is no "shear" mode or "hump" mode involved.

Customers may have concern that the transfer case is not operating properly because one set of tires spun for a brief period. It is normal for one set of tires to spin until the viscous coupling engages.

Turning off the traction control switch, if equipped, enhances the function of the viscous coupling. The viscous coupling, as described above, engages by heat. Allowing one set of tires to spin or slip for a brief period will generate heat in the viscous coupling. The engine speed should be kept at a constant speed during the brief spin of the tires. Pulsating the engine speed or hard acceleration will not allow the viscous coupling to operate properly.