I always use a new bolt.. Yea the stocker might work or it might snap when your torquing it down or just come loose. I would rather be safe then sorry cuz I really not a fan of pulling engines out

 

^^^ Says the guy who can't decide lifted or lowered..... haha!!

 

...not to mention that you've already had a problem with the balancer coming loose, and it looks like you dodged a bullet as the crank looks OK in the pics. The bolt looks fine in the pics also, but why take the chance in this case especially?

 

Lifted .. Final answer

 

should go back down with the stock GMC 20s & just a tad of Texas rake, IMO

 

I would NEVER reuse the stock TTY bolt, and I would never use locktite on it. Install the pulley with the special tool/torch/longer bolt, then tighten the pulley with the old bolt, then torque down the new bolt and go an additional 110* or however many the manual calls for. I use a 4 foot cheater pipe.

But there are plenty of other things that I do half-***, so I won't preach too much

 

I went with a 20$ ARP bolt mainly due to the fact that Ive read of a few people on tech breaking brand new bolts tq'ing them to spec and I didnt want to chance that.

 

well i'm gonna buy a new bolt a less than $5 bucks its a no brainer, i'm install the stock pulley saturday. so what is the right way to install this thing. personally i use the install tool that presses it in and then tighten down the bolt jst w/ my HEman strength...

 

Use an install tool to press it on. Tightening it by hand is not tight enough.

 

I believe that the factory procedure is to put the old bolt in and tighten it to 240 ft/lb, then remove, install the new bolt and tighten to 37 ft/lb, then turn it another 140* to tighten and stretch the bolt. IIRC, the last time I did mine I couldn't get the whole 140* but the bolt was effin tight and hasn't given me a problem with over 40k on it