I've tried a couple searches, but most of the threads that I've seen are more along the lines of "which blower should I get?" I've already decided, but I would appreciate some help on the other componants. I know several guys on here have them, and I was hoping you could share some tips on the install, or anything you would have done differently in general. I will be installing a slightly used kit. I'm not sure whether I should run the 42lb injectors now,and just have nelson send me an update or whether i should use the whipple piggy-back crap until I drive down to visit Nelson sometime around march or april. What injectors are you guys running? What are the pro's and con's of each? How much boost are you running. Is this your daily driver? Thanks

 

save yourself some headache and throw whipples electronics in the garbage. Im currently in the process of fixing an 8.1 with a whipple thier setup uses something like 2 55lbers and they spray through the intake(which isnt meant for fuel to go through) he has alot of issues with kr and being lean, the whipple sends a false signal to the 02's making them thing they are running at 14.7 Buy the 42's and tune for them with the stock pcm I would also invest in a map sensor that can read boost.

Here is a good right up on the subject.
http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/inde...howtopic=21675

 

Do the injectors now. To install the Whipple electronics you have to cut a few wires going into the PCM (never a good idea). If you get rid of all the electronics you will need to move a couple of the vacuum lines on the bypass valve, if you don't you'll only see 2 PSI. Right now I am at stock boost(going to raise the boost after a few supporting mods), daily driver. The Whipple electronics kept me in limp mode(2 PSI max) more often than not.

Oh, and it's easier to change the injectors without the compressor in the way.

 

Thanks guys that is exactly what I was looking for, but a bit depressing.

Which 42lb injectors should I get? These are a direct fit, so they're tempting... http://www.racetronix.com/17113739.html

So if I go ahead and install the blower, fuel pump, and the injectors above, will I need anything else? I'll ask Allen to send me a 'safe' tune until I can go see him in person.

Can you elaborate a little on moving the vacuum lines?

Thanks for the help.

 

On the 4.8/5.3 you don't need a new fuel pump unless you raise the boost. I believe the 6.0 kits come with a step-up voltage regulator for the fuel pump (not sure though).

Here's what's going on with the vacuum lines and the bypass valve:

The bypass valve is hooked up to a 2 chamber actuator, it is spring loaded in the closed position.

There are two places that are sensing pressure/vacuum: between the throttle body and the inlet of the compressor, and the other is on the outlet side of the compressor.

The side that has the spring is always hooked up to the line that senses the compressor inlet vacuum. When the vacuum is high enough, it compresses the spring and bleeds of excess compressed air.

On the other chamber in the acutator, there is an electrical solenoid that, when not energized, sends the air from the outlet side of the compressor to the actuator. When the manifold pressure reaches 2.5 PSI, it compresses the spring and bleeds off excess compressed air. When it is actuated, the outlet side of the compressor is blocked off at the solenoid.

That electrical solenoid is the Whipple engine safety system, which they boast about. The solenoid needs +12v (which is supplied from the Whipple computer) to build boost past 2.5 PSI. If you get rid of the Whipple ECU, you either need to wire the solenoid to a switchable +12v power source, or plug the port on the outlet side of the compressor, and leave the vacuum line connecting the compressor inlet to the spring side of the actuator. Leaving that line connected, you will still bypass the compressor when you don't need the boost, but when you mash the gas pedal it will build to full boost.

I'm not that good at explaining things without showing you them If all this dosen't make sense, I will try to explain it differently.

 

Click here for a whipple bypass diagram .

 

Here is a big ole thread ALL about the bypass:

Bypass Dissertation

 

Looks like I did mine a little different. I took mine apart and, after figuring how exactly it worked, pulled the solenoid and extra lines off the engine altogether. Same effect though.

 

John,
As mentioned above, ditch the craptronics from day one. Especially if you're driving down to see Allen. The Whipple programmer will run it but you'll want to get it tuned sooner than later. I ran 44# injectors w/cam and converter and it needed them to feed teh fuel in S2. Let me know if you're interested in a brandy new custom grind Comp blower cam to match that Whip with new 44#ers, 918's, and pushrods - never got to get it into S1 and it's all in my garage in teh boxes.
T

 

wow...you weren't kidding. I'm still reading through it.


That pic was very helpful. Thanks again guys.

Teddy... I'll be in touch.