Whipple A2W intercooler is here!
11-10-2006, 05:58 AM
#61
Originally Posted by 350SS
I take it the fuel pressure was not acting that way before the swap? I had something similar happen on my sisters truck where if you did not start it right away after the fuel pump primed, it would take a while to start. It turned out that it was the common problem of the check valve in the fuel pump taking a crap so basically the pump would make pressure if continuously running, but the pressure would immediately bleed of if it wasn't continuously ran. I doub't that's the problem if it wasn't doing it before the rail swap, but something you might want to be aware of.
Cant wait to see how much timing i can throw at this thing. I would guess at least a few degrees considering my IATs are 100* lower than they were..
. It was pretty cool how after driving around for an hour i pulled back into the garage and popped the hood to look around and the intercooler was very cool to the touch, this should work out just fine. I noticed that by putting the heat exchanger right behind the grill, it made my ECT's go up 2* (they used to sit at 167*, now they sit at 169*). My ATF temps also went up about 3 or 4 degrees, nothing worth caring about. This weekend should be fun!
11-10-2006, 08:56 AM
#62
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Now just think if you fill that larger reserve tank with some ice just how cold those temps are going to get. Below ambient for the short term.
You might see higher tranny temps in the summer months, but thats an easy fix with a larger cooler.
Doesn't the regulator have a check valve in it. The rail should stay pressured up for a good amount of time with key off. Might pull it back out and make sure there is not any trash in that area from the new rail keeping the regulator from closing down.
Just a thought.
You might see higher tranny temps in the summer months, but thats an easy fix with a larger cooler.
Doesn't the regulator have a check valve in it. The rail should stay pressured up for a good amount of time with key off. Might pull it back out and make sure there is not any trash in that area from the new rail keeping the regulator from closing down.
Just a thought.
11-10-2006, 09:32 AM
#63
Regulator has a mesh screen, then rubber o-ring, then the regulator body with some sort of ring around it (magnet?). The thing that is odd is that i can spin the regulator pretty freely in its housing when the engine is not running, actualy rock it back and forth a little too. With the engine running, it does not spin or move at all.
Yes, dumping some ICE in that sucker will be pretty badass!
Yes, dumping some ICE in that sucker will be pretty badass!
11-10-2006, 09:46 AM
#64
Found my problem i think, there is a smaller O-ring behind the mesh filter that i did not transfer over to the new FPR housing....DOH!
I hope it did not fall off the workbench onto the floor someplace. I believe its probably still in the old housing.
I will take care of this tonight!
I hope it did not fall off the workbench onto the floor someplace. I believe its probably still in the old housing.
I will take care of this tonight!
11-10-2006, 09:54 AM
#65
Originally Posted by Whippled 496
Found my problem i think, there is a smaller O-ring behind the mesh filter that i did not transfer over to the new FPR housing....DOH!
I hope it did not fall off the workbench onto the floor someplace. I believe its probably still in the old housing.
I will take care of this tonight!
I hope it did not fall off the workbench onto the floor someplace. I believe its probably still in the old housing.
I will take care of this tonight!
11-10-2006, 05:43 PM
#69
Originally Posted by NXRICKY
You sure. 
11-10-2006, 07:28 PM
#70
TECH Junkie
Originally Posted by Whippled 496
I took a look in the old FPR housing in the old rail and sure enough that stupid little O-ring is in there. Thats what i figured happened....i will pull it back off in the morning and pop it in......easy enough.
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