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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 09:30 PM
  #41  
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lol, ok take that out of the loop....

So 3 psi on stage three heads and a cam with a 3.1 pulley.....somthing is not right....

Have you double checked your gauge? Before you go out beating on it you need to get that tuning issue looked at, I would highly suggest an in person tune if you can.
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 09:42 PM
  #42  
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Yea I know, I was scheduled to get a dyno tune from EPP last friday but I canceled it because I thought had some sort of mechanical problem? I guess I will go ahead and get the dyno tune and then if the problem still exist then I will deal with it at that time. Would the timing have something to do with the low boost?
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 10:06 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by bradazz
Yea I know, I was scheduled to get a dyno tune from EPP last friday but I canceled it because I thought had some sort of mechanical problem? I guess I will go ahead and get the dyno tune and then if the problem still exist then I will deal with it at that time. Would the timing have something to do with the low boost?

No, not at all. Timing does not have anything to do with the amount of boost the blower makes. Have you checked to see if your balancer is spinning on the crank?
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 08:03 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by BlownChevy
No, not at all. Timing does not have anything to do with the amount of boost the blower makes. Have you checked to see if your balancer is spinning on the crank?
Everything with the balancer seems to be fine. I pulled off the LT header on the passenger side and looked at the gaskets and I seem to have a exhaust leak in all 4 exhaust ports, that could be the cause of some or all of the KR. The reason I pulled that header is because I heard a ticking noise on the passenger side that sounded like an exhaust leak. I will get that fixed and see where I am at. I also am going to change the fuel pressure regulator as you suggested earlier.

Last edited by bradazz; Mar 27, 2006 at 07:20 PM.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 07:22 PM
  #45  
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Would a fuel issue cause low boost? I am getting a brand new boost & fuel gauge so I will check it again when I change the items mentioned in the above post.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 09:52 PM
  #46  
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Hang in there Brad. Trouble shooting this issue requires separating the mechanical side from the electronic side. Your truck's issues are a challenge. On one hand your suffering from low boost and on the other hand your seeing detonation. Kind of a strange combination of problems. It sure seems like the knock is from a real lean condition.
What Parish means by the O2's in the .88 range is a reference to the voltage of the O2 sensors. If you can log a scan while your driving, the O2 voltage at WOT should idealy hover around .88 volts. That will indicate a safe fuel air ratio. Voltages in the .95 on up will be too lean. Voltages below .8 will be too rich.
Keep digging, you'll get dialed in and then it'll all be worth it.
Let us know when you get the new guages installed.

Richard
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 07:28 PM
  #47  
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Update: I replaced the Fuel pressure regulator, fixed the Header leak and also finished up installing the fuel pressure gauge and boost gauge. I did not have time to finish putting everything back together so I did not get to drive it like I had hoped. I was looking through some of my old post and found this one https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=344673 and I remember having KR issues last year before I installation of the Heads, Cam, and Radix. I switched to a 2002 pcm last year but that did not fix my KR problem, unless jesse forgot to use the 2002 program? I am going to call him tomorrow. I would like to work out as many issues as I can before the dyno tune. I am thinking most of the KR is false but I am not sure, I have about 1/2 tank of 110 octane fuel in my truck that I borrowed from my cousin so I do not think that is the problem. The only noise that sounded strange when the engine is on or when I drive around was the ticking sound from the header leak? I will let you the results when I take it for a test drive when I get back, I have to leave to go to Chicago for a couple days. I promise after I figure out this problem nobody will hear anymore questions from me because I will be out driving my truck! Later.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Richard@WCCH
If you can log a scan while your driving, the O2 voltage at WOT should idealy hover around .88 volts. That will indicate a safe fuel air ratio. Voltages in the .95 on up will be too lean. Voltages below .8 will be too rich.
Richard

thats backwards. .95 is richer than .88

back in the day before widebands people used to shoot for .88 to .92 but that is really just a guess. it is a prety safe bet anything under .88 is not playing it safe.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by parish8
thats backwards. .95 is richer than .88 back in the day before widebands people used to shoot for .88 to .92 but that is really just a guess. it is a prety safe bet anything under .88 is not playing it safe.

When I scan the truck how do I tell if I am in a safe range? I remember when I scanned my 03 Silverado that the o2 readings were 870mv, is that what I need to read while I drive? I am using LS1M to scan my truck. Thanks.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 08:44 PM
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.870 is probably ok. it depends on a few things. if you are seeing any knock retard at .870 then try and get them up to the .900 range. if your not seeing knock then you are probably ok. using the stock o2's to tune with is not very acurate but combined with your knock sensor you can avoid a broken piston.
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